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Everything posted by cjtmacclassic

  1. I recently traded for a IIGS+AppleColor display in unknown condition. The IIGS seems fine, but the monitor is doing this. \ I've searched but haven't seen this specific failure mode elsewhere though I imagine these suffer from the same electrolytic fatalities as the machines themselves. What should I try first?
  2. The guide lists ethylene-propylene as suitable for G5 temperatures, though I imagine silicone would hold up even better, so long as it doesn't compress too much over time. Maybe I could do some tests at length and find out what's most resilient? Unity, I'll keep looking for those o-rings, but if you happen to find a source, I'd be very much interested in buying from you.
  3. Alright, looks like I'll be investing in a LCS rebuild. I'm seeing "white rice" near CPU B. I've found a guide on xlr8yourmac, but I'm having trouble locating suitable o-rings. Does anyone have a recommended source for these?
  4. Hello all, I just recently got a G5 (dual CPU, 2.7, 4GB) with a few caveats. It has trouble booting, and if left to sit, the fans rev to max speed but the system doesn't boot (a red LED glows near the lower CPU as well). If forced to shutdown during this cooling frenzy and powered on again, it will boot normally. Idle temperatures are around 130-140*F on the CPUs. If tasked with anything beyond idling, the system will fan erratically, then sleep. I am not at all familiar with the quirks of this model, but I'm leaning towards cooling issues. I hope you'll forgive my noobishness if this has bee
  5. Well, not the whole UI. The pointer still responds to the trackpad, but clicking, dragging, etc do nothing. Only the pointer moves. I suspect a bad solder joint somewhere, as tapping the underside of the iBook causes the issue to surface, but I'd feel better with a second opinion before I stick any boards in an oven. It's a 12" 1.07GHz model, dated 2003. 256MB SDRAM stick in slot, and an Airport card. Everything functions normally aside from when it freezes. It does not respond to the lid switch for sleep or the power button unless a forced shutdown is done. Thank you, -goose
  6. That reminds me - Our CAD lab recently got a new 3D scanner. Since we don't quite know how to use this touchy device, I've been working to get it working right. I'm seeing a gradual improvement, though, so perhaps we'll be seeing some new scan-to-print replacement parts soon.
  7. While I was recapping, I couldn't find the 35v 2200uf cap. Would you mind pointing it out to me?
  8. I've made a post about this previously. The output is in fact TTL. Also, this may be useful: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=20525&start=0
  9. The support plastic isn't soluble here. In fact, it's too strong. The pins that were supposed to hold the pi snapped off when I was removing the support structure. We've had larger prints without mysterious support plastic appearances, so this is very likely a modeling fault.
  10. The case finished printing. Currently Re-printing the rear case and added cooling vents/larger ports. Due to a modeling error on my part, the case now has white stripes. It uses two plastics when printing; A white plastic for building support structures while printing, and black/other colors for the actual model. Why it added support structures mid-part is unbeknownst to me.
  11. A to-scale would use a lot of plastic and it isn't that cheap. That, and the Pi doesn't need that much room to begin with. The most scaling I've done is for the length, as it would just be empty space. I've left enough room inside for cables and a tiny fan, as the little Samsung System-on-a-chip generates a fair bit of heat. When I print the new rear panel I'll probably add some tiny vents. The current one was originally intended for a DE-9 carrying a combo of A/V signals, but I ditched the idea in favor of using a single HDMI cord. And yes, the printer is limited to a size of 1' by 1'
  12. Update: Need to edit and re-print the rear cover, the holes for USB and ethernet are a bit too small, plus the ethernet port needs to be flush. I'd like to see if we can order some Navy blue and make a Zip-Drive sort of thing. Part 1 is easy. Finding a Mac TV, on the other hand...
  13. I'm not sure. We've got a CNC cutter and machining station for metallic things, but our printer uses what's essentially a spool of weedeater thread.
  14. Forgot to switch the plastic spools, so the entire thing is black now. The good news is that the rear cover is finished! The bad news is that I mixed up the files and now I have two of them.
  15. So I can put my Pi inside of it without needing an actual floppy drive, and instead use my own enclosure.
  16. Does anyone know of the L/W/H in centimeters? I'm 3D printing an enclosure for my Raspberry Pi and want it to look similar to this floppy drive. Thanks in advance!
  17. This is my first conquest since, what, 4 years ago? Completely stock, 7.5.3 update excluded. No modem, but I wouldn't be able to use it anyways. A friend was planning on auctioning it at an estate sale, but knowing my hobby thought otherwise. Now, IIRC, the displays on these tend to fail over time. Do I need to replace caps or replace the whole display? So, what's available on this forum upgrade-wise? This thing is in desperate need of RAM (System 7.5.3 with only 4MB) And I'd like to raise it to at least 16, 32 if possible. Also, does anyone here provide AAUI to Ethern
  18. I was a bit shocked when I saw it. Hardly anything good ever crops up here, let alone a complete IIGS!
  19. http://columbiamo.craigslist.org/sys/3691247497.html I can't get to it, but if anyone nearby is looking for a IIGS in excellent condition, have at it.
  20. Did the Classic originally contain screws securing the logic board to the metal chassis? I ask because mine is just sort of floating around in the metal slots. Thanks!
  21. This listing has been popping up a few times from a University sale on my local Craigslist. Hopefully I'll be able to pay for it within a week or two, as I'm getting my first job in a few days. Anything I should know about these? I mostly plan on using it as a file server/LAN server for my compacts. I'm impressed with how clean the plastics are.
  22. Try reflowing J1 First, and if the problem persists, replace C1.
  23. If a slap temporarily fixes it, then it's more likely that you've just got bad joints. Your friend should be able to reflow them. All you need to do is remove the analog board (mounted on the side of the Macintosh) and reflow the video/power connector at J4. It's at the center of the analog board and leads to the motherboard. However, it is recommended that you replace your capacitors to keep your logic board from being corroded by the capacitor fluids, which have a tendency to leak. If/when replacing C1, Make sure it is rated for high voltage, otherwise you'll have lovely capacitor guts s
  24. From past experience, I'd wager that you've got bad solder joints on C1, Or it needs to be replaced. Another possible problem is that the multicolored wire connector has a weak solder joint, in which case you simply need to reflow it with fresh solder/flux. You can test this by wiggling the connector and trying to start the machine again. There are several members on this board who can reflow or re-cap your Mac if you're not able to do so.
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