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plb007

Preventive recap Mac 128k & 512k

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Hi, 

 

Following my "classic" and "IIci" failure due to capacitor and battery leak, I went to check my 128k & 512k.

As they powers as usual, with sound, bright and crisp screen, is it necessary or recommended to change the caps ? Are they subject to leak as classic and SE30's ? 

Does analog board and logic board needs recapping ? 

Is there a "list" of more leaking mac. I see a lot of classic (1&2 + color) and SE30's, but less of the others compact mac. 

 

Regards  

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43 minutes ago, plb007 said:

is it necessary or recommended to change the caps ?

No, certainly not on the logic board.

 

Replace the caps on the analog board when you start to notice the CRT display fluttering or jittering, particularly with floppy drive activity.

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I bought my 512kE in 1997, and most of my troubles have been solder joints...

.. There was the burnt up J1 connector, but I just removed it all together..

And as I stated in that piece, I changed the capacitor at C1. 

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ECQ-E2395JB?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF0%2BjlB8SXIRuf09bNNZbGIg%3D

 

I haven’t done anything else to it....  It just works.

 

..... The other compacts I have, all have some sort of cap problems (SE/30, Classic II, SE SuperDrive...)

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I have two Pluses, both are upgraded 512ks.  I reflowed solder joints on both and also have a partially-burnt J1 connector, but otherwise they both work brilliantly.  One weird exception I have posted about elsewhere - one of my Pluses always reboots instantly whenever a Made-in-Japan M0100 mouse is plugged into it (the Made-in-USA M0100 doesn’t do this ... I have several of both and it happens consistently with the Japanese mice only).  Once the mouse is plugged in, it works completely fine after the auto-reboot.  Thinking something in the mouse was causing a short I actually recapped the mouse just kind of for fun, but it made no difference.  I have been wondering if an analog board recap might help with this, but as nothing else is even slightly amiss I haven’t bothered as yet.

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On 6/8/2019 at 7:29 AM, Crutch said:

I reflowed solder joints on both and also have a partially-burnt J1 connector, but otherwise they both work brilliantly

You might want to look at the link I posted in my last comment. You’ll find all the pieces to get a new jack & connector in there, or do what I did, and remove it entirely, soldering the wires directly to the board. 

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Thanks @jimjimx that is awesomely helpful! I was looking for that exact part several months back and even posted as such to this forum, but didn’t have luck finding it. Now I can add this to my project list. 

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On 6/13/2019 at 6:00 AM, Crutch said:

Thanks @jimjimx that is awesomely helpful! I was looking for that exact part several months back and even posted as such to this forum, but didn’t have luck finding it. Now I can add this to my project list. 

We don’t always get to read everything.  

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I didn’t mean it snarky.. just kind of “yeah, I’m lazy, I don’t get to (let myself) read everything “.

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Mac 128k, 512k, plus seem to have bad joints that need re-doing.

 

everything after the Mac SE needs new caps.

 

But the Mac SE seems to be a nice in-between spot. Good joints and good caps. YMMV

 

in general tho. Mac SE's seem to be great starter collection items. they tend to still work and there is a lot of them.

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12 hours ago, tappdarden said:

Mac 128k, 512k, plus seem to have bad joints that need re-doing.

 

everything after the Mac SE needs new caps.

 

But the Mac SE seems to be a nice in-between spot. Good joints and good caps. YMMV

 

in general tho. Mac SE's seem to be great starter collection items. they tend to still work and there is a lot of them.

IMHO as good measure while you have the board out to do a recap, I always touch up the solder joints, especially on connectors. It only takes a few seconds and saves time down the road in having to pull the PCB again. I like to get in there, do the repair, get out and not look back :-)

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14 hours ago, tappdarden said:

Mac 128k, 512k, plus seem to have bad joints that need re-doing.

 

everything after the Mac SE needs new caps.

 

But the Mac SE seems to be a nice in-between spot. Good joints and good caps. YMMV

 

in general tho. Mac SE's seem to be great starter collection items. they tend to still work and there is a lot of them.

All caps will go bad, maybe with the exception of ceramic......

They are supposed to block DC, but after time, they will allow it through, turning it into a resistor. 

When it does this, it is called a leaky capacitor, because it is leaking DC.

.... Not only electrolytic fluid leaks!

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Sure

 

 But Apple 2’s seem to be fine where as 1990-ish macs seem to be not working. 

 

So so as an order of magnitude Newer caps (maybe it being surface mount?) seem to be far worse shape then older ones 

 

Nobody is saying anything lasts for ever 

still YMMV

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