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jefframsey

Color Classic C4 and C5

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Can someone please tell me where C4 and C5 connect to on the main board?

 

I repaired one back in the summer. It had a few weak pads on C4, but I was able to get them to stick. It has worked and been 100% stable for the last 6 months. 

 

I traded it to a friend in Singapore and shipped it to him packaged really well and when it arrived, C4 is completely loose in the packaging. He says that C5 is loose as well, but is still connected. 

 

If we can figure out where to connect jumper wires to bypass the pads, maybe we can revive this board. 

Edited by jefframsey
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Greetings Jefframsey.....

 

If you go here:

 

https://powercc.org/

 

and then here:

 

https://powercc.org/recap/

 

you might be able to fine the answwrs you are looking for.

 

Also, this forum has detailed photos of both the analog board and logic board plus

caps values and locations.

 

https://www.applefritter.com/forum/101

 

I hope this helps.

 

mraroid

 

 

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On 11/26/2018 at 8:30 AM, mraroid said:

I hope this helps.

 

mraroid

Thanks for the tips. I have been on these sites already but I am not seeing what I need. I have a CC board that has the pads destroyed on C4 and C5 is iffy. I would like to know where to connect a jumper wire from the cap to the destination of the trace.

 

I cannot seem to find a schematic of the board. My Google foo is weak on this one for some reason.

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I’m going to expose my amateurishness here, but one thing I’ve done in the past is scrape away a little of the mask covering the trace immediately adjacent to the pad (near the point the pad disconnected from the trace) and then solder a jumper to that. Or, if the distance to the cap isn’t great, just solder straight over from the exposed trace to the cap. So, you may not necessarily need to route a jumper wire all that far at all. Again, others probably have more sensible suggestions.

Edited by LazarusNine

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On 11/28/2018 at 2:26 PM, LazarusNine said:

I’m going to expose my amateurishness here, but one thing I’ve done in the past is scrape away a little of the mask covering the trace immediately adjacent to the pad (near the point the pad disconnected from the trace) and then solder a jumper to that. Or, if the distance to the cap isn’t great, just solder straight over from the exposed trace to the cap. So, you may not necessarily need to route a jumper wire all that far at all. Again, others probably have more sensible suggestions.

I have done this same thing with a printer and it worked pretty well. Eventually, the heat from the printer caused it to dislodge. Anyhow, I am going to issue a refund to my buyer so all is well here. I don't need to fix this board.

 

Thanks for the advice either way.

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