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Capacitor Replacement Thread . . .

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Since so many troubleshooting threads wind up like this:

 

http://68kmla.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=19583

 

An official detailed recapping guide for every model would be an excellent thing to have in the Hacks & Development forum. I know we have some already, but I'll have to think about some sort of formatting for entries. I'll start with one of the boards I need to tackle first, Im thinking along the lines of having a pic of the MoBo with info boxes, witnesse lined to each cap on the board and a netlist of caps . . .

(Obligatory) Disclaimer: the information linked to, and crosslinked from, this thread is a WORK IN PROGRESS and care should be taken in determining which parts and methods are chosen for each and every recapping project.

 

Clarification:

This thread is not the aforementioned . . . official detailed recapping guide for every model . . . by any stretch of the imagination. Consider it as the very first baby step headed in that direction. As suggested, developing a set of definitive WiKi articles would be the most desirable outcome for this project.

 

OUTRIGHT WARNING!

I certainly have no clue about what I'm doing in this regard at this point: so this thread is dedicated to those in the same lifeboat and the effort to reach dry land.

 

The only advice I'm equipped to give in this thread:

Have somebody with a clue do the recap for you!

< . . . considers admitting that he rarely follows his own advice . . . :-/ >

 

Be that as it may, here goes:

 

PLEASE post any applicable links to the pertinent threads which have already been started. I'll edit them into the listing here as a jump off point.

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

I've been following developing info in trag's capacitor shop for some time now.

 

Recapping Analog Boards of 128K/Plus and SE series

Compact Mac Analog Board Re-Cap Kit?

 

Pro tip for recapping boards - with tool recommendations.

Caps! -- (Supplies For Beginners) What do you need?

Caps! - Temp Controlled Soldering Irons - On A Budget!

 

Caps! -- LC TDK Power Supply FIX For (Pizza Box Mac's)

 

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

Capacitor Technology threads:

 

Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors MLCC - SMD/SMT

 

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

Compacts:

-128k

-512k

-512ke

-Plus

Caps! -- Macintosh Classic

 

Caps! -- Macintosh Classic II

Caps! -- Macintosh Classic II Rev. 2 (Enhanced Sound)

-

-

Neither here nor there:

Apple Macintosh SE/30 Capacitor Replacement, Pinouts and Information

Caps! -- Macintosh SE/30

Gamba: se30repair

-

Caps! -- Macintosh Color Classic

-

-

MacII Series/68030 NuBus Architecture

-Mac II

-Mac IIx

Caps! IIcx -- IIci

Caps! Macintosh IIci - Cache Card

-Mac IIfx

Caps! -- Macintosh IIsi (NuBus/PDS Hybrid)

_____IIsi Sony PSU trickle current startup

-Mac IIvx

-

68020/68030 PDS derivatives of the NuBus/PseudoSlot Architecture

Caps! -- LC I / II / III

-

Caps! -- LC 520

-MacTV

Caps! -- LC 550

-

-

Quadras/68040 Architecture:

Caps! -- Macintosh Quadra/Centris 610

-Quadra 700

-Quadra 800

-Quadra 900

-Quadra 650

-Quadra 950

-Quadra 840av

-

-

-Quadra 610 (NuBus/PDS Hybrid)

-Quadra 660av (NuBus/PDS Hybrid)

-

-

68040/bridged 68030 PDS derivatives of the NuBus/PseudoSlot Architecture

Caps! -- LC 475 / Quadra 605

-

-Quadra 630

-

-

-

-

-

Caps! -- LC 575 a.k.a. Performa 575, 577, 578

-LC 580

-

-

Luggable thru PowerBooks:

Caps! -- Macintosh Portable

-PB100

-

-

-

-

 

PPC . . . fuggedaboudit! xx(

 

Last edit: 2/25/2012

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Formatting tests:

 

I really like the individual pics of components that are cropping up.

 

A table of DigiKey/North American, ____?____/AUS, ____?____/EEU order numbers/quantities/descriptions/pictures would be most excellent.

 

Nicely done visual documentation: Caps! IIcx -- IIci

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That's what we're going to figure out first. Start by searching out all the good threads related to re-capping, post'em and we'll get started from there! [;)]]'>

 

The A/B recap thread is close to what I'd like to see. The only thing missing, from a cursory look see, is the MoBo shot with arrows/info boxes aimed at every cap.

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Thanks for that removal link, that was one of the ones I wanted to get posted.

 

I like your diagram, but it's a little more intimidating than what I was thinking because of the information density and presentation.

 

I'll play a bit in illustrator and post something.

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Well yes, I will confess that the image is quite crammed and a bit on the "unprofessional" side...not to mention the load of color will guarantee a well-soaked page fresh out of the inkjet...Looks great on the computer screen, rubbish on paper (I personally have never printed it).

 

As I lack the skillset to make professional-grade material, it's the best I can do, and I was originally trying to make it fit on a Letter (US) size page, but I was eventually forced to go with Legal.

 

Maybe two A4 pages would be better?

 

Certainly, anybody is free to download the AppleWorks version (or if you don't have it, I can cut all the text out of it for you, and pluck out the raster images if need be) and improve upon it. The only thing is that the logic board image comes from JDW so permission from him would probably be respectable.

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you should at the top post links to commonly needed caps

 

like from digikey:

16v 47uf

16v 10uf

16v 1uf

the panasonic, +/- 20% OEM replacement alum can types and the tantalum kind

Mcdermd knows exactly the ones.

 

also these as well just not as many as above.

16v 220uf

16v 470uf

5a1d0416f134c_Screenshot2012-11-25at5_52_37PM.png.4d893ba2a44f7990c83d05fa149439a1.png

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Trash,

 

For those needing further detailed diagnoses, would posting the entire schematics of a machine be allowed as well? I've got a backup of the entire blueprints for the SE/30 if you'd like. Not sure if it would violate 68kmla post policy, though. :-/

 

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

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I am a proponent of polymer SMD caps that look like the original *evil* caps }:) . I wanted to keep my logic board (socketed) looking closer to stock and I also read here about tantalum caps potentially having catastrophic failures. I posted the part numbers I used here: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=18318#p173029

 

polymer_caps.jpg.53052ce2fa9b4bfac7e3848b4c6b4dba.jpg

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Here is my suggestion for badly corroded cap jobs,

 

Again this is my suggestion, might not be yours, just sharing from my hands-on experience.

 

make sure when you do the se/30 that you just don't mess around and twist off the old caps, don't try to heat them up and remove.. just twist the bastards off, if you lift a pad doing it , it was going to happen anyways. but unless they are mostly corroded off, you will not have any issues with pads.

 

if you have a buffer wheel for your dremel its good to polish the pads once you twist them off, it gets the corrosion from the leaked electrolyte, makes better contact with the soldering iron. makes your life way more easy when putting the new ones back on.

 

Flux always helps the solder flow it helps make your life easier.

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. . . Not sure if it would violate 68kmla post policy, though. :-/

Nice! That's a wonderful offer and very nicely done in terms of restraint in waiting for approval, comrade. I'll defer judgement on that issue to Joint Force Command.

 

It will likely boil down to whether this is a reverse engineered schematic or one smuggled out of the Infinite Loopiness, carrying Intellectual Property Notice/Copyright baggage along on its underground railroad ride.

 

Forward the relevant info on this issue to Cory in PM for determination and all remains cool. :beige:

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Um, on second thought, possibly not. After looking through the GIFs of the schematics, they do show " Apple Computer, Inc." in the lower right-hand corner of each page. It doesn't appear to be a reverse engineer from a 3rd party, like Bomarc Services (http://www.bomarc.org). They currently have both the logic board and analog board dissected and recompiled into their own schematics.

 

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

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Thanks for checking for Intellectual Property notification and for that Bomarc Services link.

 

I remember seeing some of that contraband posted somewhere on the web. You're right, it's best to leave that kind of info floating on the breeze in the clouds rather than posting it here.

 

Any direct linkage would clearly violate the rules and be shot down immediately.

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Here is my suggestion for badly corroded cap jobs,

 

Again this is my suggestion, might not be yours, just sharing from my hands-on experience.

 

make sure when you do the se/30 that you just don't mess around and twist off the old caps, don't try to heat them up and remove.. just twist the bastards off, if you lift a pad doing it , it was going to happen anyways. but unless they are mostly corroded off, you will not have any issues with pads.

 

I agree. Although, I am finding that it may be better to try cutting the old caps off, like what Mk.558 has posted.

 

If you have a buffer wheel for your dremel its good to polish the pads once you twist them off, it gets the corrosion from the leaked electrolyte, makes better contact with the soldering iron. makes your life way more easy when putting the new ones back on.

 

Flux always helps the solder flow it helps make your life easier.

 

I agree as well. But to be more gentle on the board, use a small wire brush kit like this. Not saying to get that exact kit, but one similar to it. That one I posted is uber weak; no stiff strands of wire in that brush, compared to the previous model kit they carried. :p><img src='https://68kmla.org/forums/uploads/emoticons/sad.gif.fd4612761a7f036f230186185c887adf.gif' alt=':('>< Also doesn't hurt to use a pencil eraser as well.

 

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

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"Don't copy that floppy or twist that cap."

 

I had some corroded pads that made it difficult to remove the remaining legs after doing the cut method. Covering the area with a flux pen and applying heat from the iron cleaned it up pretty well. Be gentle and let the heat and flux do the heavy lifting.

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I found this at microcenter today,

5a1d041bafa9a_Screenshot2012-12-01at6_58_30PM.png.fbe05d3ab924e28b2bca27181873a468.png

they have a new section over in the Gamer section, all kinds of stuff, its like how radio shack used to be.

 

In this kit there is enough to do almost do 2 boards, maybe 3 boards depending on the board (all caps).

 

Obviously at 21 bucks its not that great of a deal, but its light years better then $1.67 a cap at RadioShack aka worst buy express.

and microcenter is open till 9 or later at most locations.

5a1d041bbad94_Screenshot2012-12-01at6_57_50PM.png.1df63f363593f8af5c001718b07fae54.png

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Amen to that. In a pinch, those caps will work. Don't know if they're any better than SMD orange colored tantalums I use (the same ones that trag uses). You'll just need to make sure you trim the leads short enough and make sure you install them in the right position: + to +, - to -. Duh.

 

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

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I got my sleeves up, and ready to recap this IIci board I got yesterday, ready to twist these leaky lil bastards off and solder up these new gems i found at microcenter.

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I would be bummed out if I found a Christmas tree farm of BIG electrolytic caps on my board, but not as bummed as an irrepairable board due to capacitor acid leakage. I just posted the following elsewhere, but since this thread is a gathering of knowledge, I'll re-post here.

 

I'm thinking of going with aluminum organic polymers in the future. They're twice the price but have the stock look and my understanding is that they won't leak like an electrolytic will.

Yeah, they do not have a fluid inside of them. They seem to get a good recommendation as a high reliability tantalum alternative from NASA:

 

A destructive test with massive current over stress to fail the polymer aluminum capacitors reveals that all polymer aluminum capacitors failed in a benign mode without ignition, combustion, or any other catastrophic failures.

 

5a1d041c83267_nasa-polymercaps.thumb.png.e20edabce7b72d9d473b0c6c497625af.png

Apparently there are other polymer/aluminum constructions besides the aluminum can/wound structure as shown in the source doc. Here is another example:

 

5a1d041c9513c_NASApolymercap2.png.64bfd7a8efd5bc8f6f1f2e615279550f.png

 

Source: http://nepp.nasa.gov/files/20389/09_005_GSFC_Williams_Liu%20APC%20Final%20Report.pdf

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More like dead Christmas trees. I did the IIci, with those microcenter caps, works great! made the leads longer and just laid the caps on their side that way they don't break off, I kinda got the idea from a board technight did. It'd great to have working softpower back and sound.

IMG_1516.thumb.jpg.15af7b9f313fb85b3f5c810c29bc7098.jpg

 

Some people here say not to twist the caps off, I twist every one off, every time. it works great,

also i leave the snapped off old leads on the pad, no reason to remove them.

- Twist Caps off

- Remove all debris

- Clean leaky goop with a damp paper towel

- buff off corrosion if there is any, or skip this step

- flux

- Swiftly heat up , apply fresh solder

- reflux

- set cap, and heat up each side, if you do it quick enough with the alum can kind it will sit nice and flat just like stock.

if you are not quick it will be crooked, but don't be anal, minimize how much heat you are putting into the pads!

if the cap is sitting cocked, but you can see the solder has flowed properly, and connected the lead to the pad, just leave it.

 

- I try to massively limit putting heat on the pad !

The more heat you put into the pad, the more likely it will lift.

 

Vary rarely do i lift a pad. But some days are bad days,

 

Also don't be a worry ward, just get in there an replace the caps.

some of you will fail, and even if you do there are pros out there like technight and phreakout that have blue prints

and they can use wirewrap and follow traces, if needed!

 

I received a IIci from captainbob , He gave it to me for free, lots of pads were ripped clean off. Someone had F^%$#^ this thing all up!

i did some very ugly re-work to make the connections still happen, I had to be vary patient! Was able to make all the connections, it works great now.

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There are so many Capacitor threads and discussions so I don't know where this belongs now, but what about the Macintosh Plus?

 

I got a long list of capacitors for the International Macintosh Plus from an old thread in here, but I have problems finding all the parts. And some seems to not be in production any more. And I wan't to buy all of them at the same time because of shipping prices.

 

Where can I buy them?

 

A international Macintosh Plus capacitor list from another thread:

- 4x 2200uf, 16v Radial: D=18mm, H=35mm
- 1x 4700uf, 16v Radial: D=18mm, H=35mm
- 1x1000uf, 16v Radial: D=16mm, H=25mm
- 1x 220uf, 16v Radial: D=10mm, H=20mm
- 2x 470uf, 10v Radial: D=8mm, H=12mm
- 2x 22uf, 50v Axial: L=16mm
- 1x 47uf, 16v Axial: L=14mm
- 1x 33uf, 16v Axial: L=13mm
- 2x 4700pF, 250v Box: L=13mm
- 1x 474K, 400V Metal Poly: L=23mm
- 1x 3.9uf 35v Bi Polar: D=18mm, H=35mm

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My feedback on this project:

The photos and the list of caps is really helpful. Being able to know ahead of time what I need to order before sitting down at the bench and disassembling the machine helps a lot.

 

The links to Mouser aluminum electrolytic caps was unexpected and a bit disappointing. An example: I was browsing the threads, and I've got a Classic that works but really should be recapped. I saw the Classic thread and thought "this is useful, I'll just click the links and order the caps so I have them on hand when I get around to replacing them". Then clicked on the link and was shocked and amazed to find tin cans. Replacing with those seems silly and pointless, so closed the window and gave up.

 

I'm not sure this is the best format though. This is what the wiki is for. Forums are not really conducive to this kind of reference documentation and collaboration. We've already got a bazillion comments in this and several of the other threads that are not relevant to the purpose of the thread, all of which must be sorted through just to find the useful bits of information. Including this one. :p

Honestly, when there is so much chaff to sort through, I'll just identify the caps myself.

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