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Alex

Color Classic - total restoration

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Hello

 

I thought I would come here to ask as most of you are surely more learned than I am.

 

I have taken apart a Color Classic and would like to do a complete cleanup. I have properly discharged the CRT and the machine is in pieces right now.

 

For now, I would I have some basic questions.

 

Should I recap the analog board? Never done it but I have soldered in the past.

 

Is it safe to clean the CRT and potentially the analog board. I have a can of air but potentially I was thinking of using Isopropyl Alcohol and a q-tip.

 

Maybe the folks on this forum can understand how particular I am being about cleaning this little guy up. Others might think it's weird but love for these little show pieces goes a long way, besides it's a lot of fun.

 

Would love to get some advice.

PS, I have all the proper tools and am using an ESD mat and wrist strap. Cheers!

 

—Alex

Edited by Alex

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It's not a bad idea to recap the analog board. Good chance the caps have begun leaking by now. You may also want to check for cracked solder joints, too. How exactly do you plan to clean the CRT? You can wipe down the face of it, no problem. If you're planning to clean the entire CRT body, I suggest you take care not to damage the neck.

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Great advice from everyone, 68krazy, thanks for the awesome thread.

 

Johnnya101, recap huh, quite a few big ones there in the analog board. Is it an expensive endeavor? Not timewise but caps wise. Also, is there a good thread on recapping the analog board? Of course 68krazy may have covered this on his thread. Headed over there now.

 

Thanks to all!

—Alex

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Recapping the analog board also helps make that Trinitron image sing... well you know... look better.

 

While you have it apart, you should install a SCSI2SD as well.

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Recapping the analog board also helps make that Trinitron image sing... well you know... look better.

 

While you have it apart, you should install a SCSI2SD as well.

 

The Trinitron is a little blurry and there is some tiny widening of the image on the top left right, bottom left right of what should be a square image so I would reckon a recap would go a long way.

 

Is this a good deal? https://www.amazon.com/Inertial-Computing-SCSI2SD/dp/B015OT28SS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489883440&sr=8-1&keywords=scsi2sd

 

Where is the best place to get all the caps I need, I am out in Poland and really have no idea of a local seller. I got to figure out what all the caps I need are. I've never done this before so I will likely be coming back for help but this project may take some time. I have a lot of stuff to get, including a soldering iron, it's been years so…

 

Will try to post some shots of the machine in pieces tomorrow.

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Get the v5 version. Here is the US sellers direct address: http://store.inertialcomputing.com/

You don't need a bracket for the SCSI2SD, but this one is pretty good: https://www.shapeways.com/product/XMF5EE7W8/scsi2sd-v5-bracket

Adjust the display via dials on the board using this set: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005M6BY2A/

 

As far as caps go, maybe some of the Euro members can chime in with advice. 

Edited by omidimo

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Digikey in my opinion is better for electrolytic caps. No, I haven't bought any yet from them, but they seem to have a better selection than mouser.

 

They are cheeeeaaappp. Maybe $1 or $2 at most for the biggest you can find, little ones are like twenty cents or around there. Never recapped a CC so I don't know how many they have but from what I've read a lot.

 

Edit: If you are in the US that's where to go for caps, digikey or mouser. Anywhere else I am not sure.

Edited by Johnnya101

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Excellent Johnnya101. I can get them shipped to the US, I have a friend in Boston who can forward any parcel to my location unless shipping is reasonable. I have a lot to learn regarding this whole issue of recapping, especially the analog board.

 

For one, I discharged the anode cap (CRT) but is there any charge left in the analog board or is it safe to handle now with standard ESD mat and wrist strap?

 

Also, is it easy to recap? I mean these look like large components for the most part but what advice can be given on the matter and what about tools? In terms of the soldering iron which should I get, I know that they come in a variety of temperature ceilings.

 

I want to do this but I will need some hand holding but I will research all I can here. I saw an excellent thread by 68krazy on his all-in-one mac that I will refer to again. Different machine but related.

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You might want to check reichelt.de - they do ship to poland at a reasonable price. If you give me some time I might be able to find the shopping list I had around somewhere when doing a full recap ob my CC. Ordered all my parts there.

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I have been "reading" the board, a visual exercise to determine find anything obvious.

I found some components that show some severe burn marks around them and a few resistors that show some browning on the board. I don't know if I actually have to drill into the board to remove that burning or not and then add epoxy to rebuild it.

 

I would like to attach photos but I only see a URL option. I don't know how to add them otherwise. Can someone help with this and I will get photos up.

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I would like to attach photos but I only see a URL option. I don't know how to add them otherwise. Can someone help with this and I will get photos up.

 

You'll want to click on "More Reply Options" which brings up the full editor, then you get the ability to attach files/images to your post.

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For archival purposes posting images directly is better I think, as they're more likely to still be up years later, and the whole forum can be backed up in one go. Hopefully we won't have another image breaking forum migration, but that seems lower risk than various 3rd party image links going down.

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Sorry for the delay in getting back.

 

I found how to upload images directly which I prefer as they will likely live as long as the site, hopefully a long time.

 

Anyway, I have been spending the last few days, due to other things, only cleaning up plastics, cables, removing old grease on the floppy with fresh one, the logic board has been cleaned up with isopropyl alcohol, the tube cleaned and dusted.

 

Now, as I was reading the analog board (inspecting it) I came across two locations two locations of particular concern. The computer will not be put back together until this is taken care of.

 

 

post-2686-0-62551100-1490129308_thumb.jpg

 

I also found what might be two further parts that are suspicious.

post-2686-0-20044200-1490129334_thumb.jpg

 

post-2686-0-41929800-1490129413_thumb.jpg

 
I don't know what role these play but what I can say is that the tube displayed a slight 'barrel distortion' restricted to the extreme corners, in other words the menubar was stretched at the corners, ditto with the bottom corners of the desktop background; corners were not nicely rounded as they should be. Maybe these components play some role in this distortion. The display seemed otherwise fair, although a little blurry for a 10 inch Trinitron, I mean the Sony Trinitrons were exceptionally good displays so these components if not failed are certainly not operating correctly, at least from appearance one could make this claim.
 
In any event I must replace these and I want to replace every capacitor on the analog board. I understand it can really improve clarity and brightness on the display, I am sure part of the board is the PSU for the main logic board.
 
There is a but in all this. The last time I soldered was about 20 years ago, on an Atari iRobot arcade machine I use to own. I am determined to do this and do it right but it will take me time. I am going through some excellent videos by Pace over on youtube, I encourage everyone to check it out, they are incredibly well put together and available in several languages, it is helping me get a very good grip on all the theories of soldering and board repair and maintenance. These are extremely valuable lesson plans, I hope you find them valuable enough to bookmark them. 

I am considering the most effective solder joint removal tool, solder removal with vacuum because of the benefits. Seeing that there are quite a few components to remove I thought this might be an ideal choice. Any thoughts on this decision? There is a video on this tool from the 80s, again by Pace, but it does look like a great tool. It is very effective with eliminating the re-sweating problem. This video covers this tool and all its applications. 

A problem I can't seem to reliably find a solution for.
As you know, the analog board is fairly well populated and it's seems challenging to match the component on the face of the board with the solder joints on the underside of the board. Are there are good tips someone can offer?
 
I will try to post some photos of my progress up to now.
 
Any advice and insights would be really appreciated.
—Alex
Edited by Alex

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I took a closer look at the image below, (reference link) and found that the same suspect components led to some overheating of the board as can be verified by the darker coloration of the board immediately around it.

This is a close up of the image referenced above and I marked-up the area described in black. Do you notice the board color has assumed a darker color? I believe this is due to too much heat. If it is true, then those same components on the sample board match what is seen happening on my board. Curious…

 

post-2686-0-02219100-1490133431_thumb.png

 

In red I marked-up the components that appear iffy on my board.

Here is my board again.

 

post-2686-0-93855000-1490133638_thumb.png

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One more comment:

 

I found this excellent materials/components list for the Color Classic, it was last checked in 2003. I will do my best to update it, referencing my own board keeping the board revision number as part of that study. The real challenge, for me anyway, is to find these parts on Digikey, Mouser etc. I may need some help on this, I will ask if I need help.

 

I am leaving a PDF of what is referenced in the link in case.

CC Analogue Board Master Parts List.pdf

 

—Alex

Edited by Alex

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Following this as I have two CC ABs that are in need of a recapping as well.

Good to know, if you need anything specific please let me know.

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I think most people here with find this interesting. This is the slice board that manages brightness and volume controls from the front facing controls on the Color Classic.

I was surprised to find credit to the designers printed on the slice push button board itself. Also, notice that DS1 is front facing LED (diode). Does anyone know what PCS stands for, credited to Joe and Shirley.

 

PB SW: Push Button Software.

PCS: Printed Circuit Switch ?

PCB: Printed Circuit Board

 

post-2686-0-49638200-1490136010_thumb.jpg

Edited by Alex

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