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Found 53 results

  1. Charadis

    Boxed PB 2400c/240 - 56K Warning

    Quite possibly the last vintage Mac I plan to collect. I've been looking for a boxed 2400c/240 for a little while; it has only become my Holy Grail after I acquired my 550c. So, for me, a significant conquest. Final Bid price: 30,500 yen (272.99 USD current) Shipping/Fees charge: 14,192 yen (127.03 USD current) Auction Linky I found this set on Yahoo! Auctions Japan late February. I also bought an extra set of restore software about the same time, and had them consolidate shipping, so you'll see the software actually shrinkwrapped with the computer box in the pic. Finally received today, since I postponed the shipment with FromJapan until after I returned from my trip to Europe. The main unit has an English keyboard installed, but the previous owner included the original Japanese keyboard. Something weird with the screen, like many examples of PowerBooks I've observed seem to develop these strange aberrations over time. There is also a faux-leather skin installed on the palm rest, mouse key...and that's it. Very clean unit, almost museum quality (in my personal, non-expert opinion. With exception to the LCD, of course). I haven't tried powering on the computer, yet. I'd like to remove the PRAM battery before I do, and that will take an afternoon. Warranty papers included. Serial matching box and paperwork. The 64MB RAM isn't inside the box, it is empty. Apple stickers! Where should I stick these?
  2. Yes, even the Macintosh 128k/512k KEYBOARD needs to be recapped: But does it really need to be 63V? Here's the keyboard schematic, with the 1uF cap showing in the upper right area nearest U2: And U2 is the 74LS123 shown here: Sure, I can find a Mouser $3.23 replacement, but why is the stock cap rated at 63V? Is it because people might be stupid and connect the keyboard to a phone jack, or is there some other reason? The reason I even wonder about this is because if lower voltage 1uF caps can safely be used in this keyboard, then more replacement options present themselves that are better and cheaper too. I look forward to your insightful replies!
  3. North Hedge Ned

    Macintosh Portables Dead

    Hello, I know that there is much discussion around the Mac Portables and their woes with powering up. So much information, in fact, that I have become lost in it all and have no idea where to start. So, if I may, some simple questions, and some directional guidance required. I have several of these beasties and they all do not seem to start up. Some don't boot at all, some boot then power off, some boot, show a mouse, and the drive tries to spin up then shuts off. One I had boot and went straight to sad Mac. It even ran off the replacement battery that I had in it (6v 5maAh lead-acid, new, fully charged), in this sad Mac state. However when I disconnected power and tried again, it would not boot. I always had the cutoff switch engaged when trying to boot from the main battery. With adapter connected (a real Portable Adapter) I am getting the 7.1 v reading at the main terminals inside the computer with the cutoff engaged. With my battery connected, I get the same. When I activate the cutoff (as in have the switch open) and my battery connected, I am reading the 6.3v of the connected battery at the terminals. Questions: 1. Must the 9V battery be installed for the unit to function properly? 2. If I were to pul the board, is there a concise step by step with photos of how and what to test with my multi-meter? Would this resource also tell me what to replace and how? I do not have the means to remove old solder. Looking for guidance and a resource to dive into. I ultimately wish to sell these things, and suspect that the cost to fix is more than recovered by the sale of a functional unit vs a dead one. Thank you all in advance! Paul
  4. I recently bought a Macintosh Quadra 700 off of eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Apple-Macintosh-Quadra-700-M5920-Desktop-Computer-w-Harddrive-Mac-iMac/273781054522?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649) and it has some corrosion on the logic board from a leaky battery. When I was cleaning the corrosion off, several components fell off of the board. The parts that came off were R71, C61, R76, R77, Y6, and C65. D5, D6, and U91 are still on the board, but their pins don't look too great. U92 has nearly all of its pins broken off and it is hanging on by two or three pins. I tested the continuity of all of the traces that I could follow in the damaged area and everything seemed to be connected. When I try to turn the computer on, the power LED lights up and the speaker clicks once (but does not chime). Do you think that the symptoms are caused by the missing parts or are the power-on issues more likely the fault of bad traces that I didn't catch? If any of the missing parts are necessary for operation, please tell me the correct component value so that I can replace them. I hope that U92 is not needed for the machine to power on because it seems to be a custom chip that is probably impossible to find. Attached are some pictures of the damaged area so that you can see what I am referring to. I hope I can save this one because I have always wanted a working Quadra 700!
  5. Picked up an old, very dusty Macintosh 7100/66 from a guy in Cincinnati about a year or so ago. Worked for a while but one day I heard some crackling noises coming from within the PSU. Unplugged it very quickly and cracked open the PSU to find the devastating scene in the attached photo. I noticed one of the IC's was fried pretty badly, so I bought a replacement and installed it. However, upon plugging in the power supply a second time, the IC fried in the same exact way it had before. I've circled it red in one of the attached photos. I really have no idea how this PSU works, but what might be frying that little chip? I'm OK at soldering, but still pretty bad at diagnosing component-level issues. I also have a lower-end fluke multi-meter so I can check diodes, capacitance, and that sort of thing. In fact, I checked the two larger caps and they were still functioning. Thanks to anyone who can give some advice! Edit: Just realised I put this in the Apple II Category by mistake. Could a mod help me move it to the PowerPC category? Thanks.
  6. Charadis

    PowerBook 550c

    Hey, all! I've been lurking around here for a while, enjoying all of the acquisition posts and knowledge from the different subgroups of this community. Reading about the stories posted here really got me excited about vintage hardware from one of my favorite tech companies. I wanted to make sure my first post would be on the "Apple" of my eye. I've been hunting for a PowerBook 550c for a few years, and lately, the time has been ripe. I recently acquired one on Yahoo! Auctions, which had the 100Mhz (or 99MHz?) PPC upgrade and 32MB module installed. I also found a PCMCIA Rev C module and a NUpowr 500 167MHz 8MB daughterboard/set. There were a couple issues: when I picked up the package, I was so excited that I had to open it right there in my car outside on the lot. I was worried about the long trip it had to take overseas that it could be damaged, and I did not insure the package. It was dark, but I had the Map light on, and looking at the unit took my breath away. It was a sight to behold. As I played with the "feet," I ended up snapping the left side foot trying to pop it out. Some JB Wield/superglue remedied that, and has held up very very well so far! Also, the right side battery had corrosion that ruined the battery contacts inside. I'm just glad the unit still functioned, but I wanted a permanent solution. I bought a 520 on eBay recently, and transplanted the right side battery contact module over to the 550c. The transplant was a success, and I successfully revived one of the batteries that the unit came with using the Intelligent Battery Recondition and EMM VST program after reading here on some of the past experiences of users that posted previously. This was merely just so I had some kind of verification that my soldering work was not crap (: Here is a picture of the current setup. I am truly ecstatic about this new addition to my Mac fam, and I truly appreciate the wealth of knowledge I've been reading here on the forums. I am still waiting for a IDE -> CF card adapter. The drive that was included in my 550c was a 1GB Apple-branded IBM drive connected to a SCSCI -> IDE attachment by ADTX. Enjoy the pics! I have quite a few more, but having trouble loading them up here. If I can load more later, I post an update! Cheers
  7. I just recapped my Macintosh IICX because it was having the common issue where the computer won't turn on and the power supply just clicks over and over again. Also, the sound wasn't working. After recapping the computer, the machine turns on just fine, but there is no chime and nothing is displayed on the screen. Do you think that I messed something up while recapping it or is there some other explanation to this problem? By the way, it worked fine before I did the recap on the rare occasion that it would actually power on without clicking repeatedly.
  8. AlexTheCat123

    Value of a Radius Accelerator Card

    Hello! I found a Radius Accelerator SE card in a Macintosh SE that I recently acquired like the one seen in the image attached. It contains a 68020 running at 16 megahertz and also has a 68881 FPU. The card seems to work fine, but I can't seem to find much information about it or what it is worth online. Can anyone give me a price for it so that when I sell it a get a good deal? Thanks!
  9. I recently picked up a PowerBook 180c that boots up and seems to work perfectly, with the exception of the floppy drive. It will read the floppies just fine, but the Finder always shows the disk locked icon, regardless of whether the disk is write-protected or not. I took the floppy drive out of the computer and the mechanism appears to be bent in such a way that the left side of the floppy is higher than the right side when it is seated in the drive, which seems to be preventing the write protect micro switch from triggering. I confirmed this by pressing on the left side of the disk when it was in the drive, and sure enough, I could write files to the disk. I tried bending the mechanism a bit to permanently fix the problem, but to no avail. Does anyone have any ideas about how to fix this? Thanks! Alex
  10. Well, no sooner than my 540's power supply went caput, I now discovered that my LC III won't startup either, and instead just clicks. Apparently this is a pretty common issue, and I guess it can sometimes be resolved temporarily by applying hot air to the affected area? Grumble frumble...
  11. I finally finished my video on recapping the SONY CR-44 PSU, which can be used in the SE and SE/30. The video is long but informative. A Mouser Cart is linked in the text description under the video (you'll have to watch it on YouTube to see that), for those of you wanting to easily purchase all the electrolytic capacitors required. You also find a link in that description to my SEASONIC PSU replacement video, for those of you who haven't seen that one either. There's still reason to recap the SONY PSU though -- it's fanless and dead silent when operating. If you have only 1 PDS card and no major upgrades, the SONY PSU, once recapped, is more than adequate. Enjoy.
  12. MacMan1984

    Macintosh Portable M5120 Repairs

    I just got a Macintosh Portable in the mail today, and I was told it boots to a floppy disk screen. Turns out, that wasn't true. It doesn't even boot at all. The startup is very erratic, sometimes doing one thing and other times doing another. It will sometimes: - Boot to the mouse cursor, but then the screen flashes and glitches. - Boot to the zebra stripes, but become caught in an endless loop of booting. - Boot to the zebra stripes, but then display a Sad Mac with error code 00000012 0000CD36. A little while after that happens, the screen begins to flash and glitch while the floppy disk and hard disk make this combination of a click and a buzz a few times a second. No startup or death chimes are heard, either. Sometimes, I'll also get random Sad Mac error codes, but sometimes it will be 00000012 0000CD36. If anyone can help me, that would be greatly appreciated. I can safely assume that it is due to the battery because it has the original battery and that it will need to be replaced, but I hope I don't have to recap anything. Many thanks in advance!
  13. Hi everyone. I have a Macintosh classic. The battery is leaked and corroded a part of the mainboard and I'm trying to repaire it. There is three bad resistors on the under side (R88,89,90). I need to replace them, but I don't know the value of R88 and R89.I think they are both 104 ohm like R90. Can someone help to me please, what are the correct values?
  14. I made a new walkthrough video about replacing all the electrolytic capacitors on the MicroMac DiiMO 50MHz 68030 accelerator for the SE/30. I explain my choice of Niobium Oxide capacitors over tantalum, show the replacement, then boot and run benchmarks. The SE/30 shown has a recapped motherboard, recapped analog board, and SEASONIC PSU. The video is 4K but if you're a Mac user who loves Safari, you'll need Chrome to view it in 1440p or 4K. Also, it was sadly during the making of this video that my Epic Blunder occurred. My humble thanks to all of you who are so kindly trying to help me in that thread. I make videos for the enjoyment of it and as a way to give back to the community. I currently don't allow ADs on my videos nor do I have a Patreon account, which is why I've never earned any monetary compensation at all from my videos. (The down side of that is Google doesn't suggest my videos as well as videos with ADs enabled.) I make videos that I really wish someone else had made for me. Even though what you see in my videos isn't necessarily groundbreaking or unique (some of you are far beyond me in terms of troubleshooting knowledge, repairs and mods, for example), I simply am transforming into an easy-to-digest video what otherwise has been exclusively found in "text form" in forums like this. For the new generation of younger people who don't prefer to read, videos are becoming increasingly important. (Even so, I still get Millennials complain my videos are too long, so we can't please everyone. I prefer to be thorough rather than worry about the clock though.) My next video endeavor will be to show the recapping of an SE/30 analog board, and then I will have yet another video showing the recapping of the SONY PSU. Anyway, I hope this information is useful not only for you DiiMO owners but also for those of you who need to recap 5V voltage rails, as the Niobium Oxide caps I chose work perfectly for that, assuming you need 22uF. They come in other sizes though so give them due consideration in your recapping jobs.
  15. I bought the color classic, previous owner said that it's working but when I connected everything and pressed the soft power button on ADB keyboard, nothing happened (the switch on back was turned on). I found on the internet that I should let it attached to the power for a day, it didn't help. I pulled out the logic board and turned the switch at the back on and I heard fan and hard drive spinning. Any ideas how to fix it?
  16. Today I powered on my Mac Plus and I heard really weak start up beep and there was this weird pattern on screen for a few seconds, then the missing disk screen showed up and it booted into a system as usual, except there was no sound. Second time I powered on the Mac there was no sound (not even quiet beep), also there wasn't any audio output from the audio jack on the back.
  17. IIfx

    Quadra 950 - Power Tower

    After many years of delays on my part, I finally managed to get this specific Quadra 950. Many thanks to @Trash80toHP_Mini for taking a large detour on the way home to North Carolina through the countryside of Northern Virginia to hand it off to me. The Quadra fired right up without a single issue after just a little bit of light cleaning. Specifications: 16mb RAM, with all SIMM slots filled 500mb HDD No Nubus cards at the moment My plan for this machine is simple. Stuff it full of Nubus cards and RAM. This Q950 will be the successor to my Q800, which currently has gone through two logic boards after an awful overclocking experiment using a MacClip. The goal is to have a power tower equivalent in awesomeness to my IIfx. That means this Q950 will house at least 1 StageII Radius Rocket, in order to elevate it's grandeur. With a 305w power supply, why not? I bought a SCSI2SD v5.1 board to serve as the main storage for the machine. Perhaps down the road I can locate an OrangePC card to go in it too. For now, my main goals will be buying RAM for it to get to at least 128mb and setting up the SCSI2SD. I will post more in this thread as progress is made.
  18. Recently imported a couple of CC ii, they both worked initially. The second one I acquired started right up, but had a "sparking" sound every time it was booted, and every time it shut down (CRT off). I noticed the fan was not working, and the back casing was not flush against the front casing. I took the back off and fitted it flush with the front, screwed it back down. Fan worked, and initially, there was that "sparking sound" but no video. Took it apart again, and this time I noticed that the grounding harness was loose, and detached from the left side bracket. Reinstalled it correctly, grounding cable now against the Trinitron snugly, and reassembled everything as it should. Powered on, no more sparking sound, but no more video, either. System would bong at startup though, and I could hear floppy drive loading the Disk Tools, but nothing shows up on screen, and I don't hear the screen being energized. Removed back, CRT doesn't seem like it's even getting any power. Reading service manual, it mentions that not properly reinstalling the ground harness/cable could damage component/s. Which I figure I probably did. Meh. But I can't, for the life of me, figure out which component/s has been affected. I've looked all over this board, tested a few components for continuity. I'm stumped. Swapped out the analog board from the other CC ii, and the tube/system comes to life. Hazaaaa, the tube is okay! Just the analog board. Grrr. Sooooooo I guess I traded working fan for video...not the best trade ever, I admit Now, I just gotta figure out how to fix the original analog board, because the picture with this other one is not aligned nicely even after I've adjusted the pots in the back (and I'd prefer to have two working CC ii's). Any advice or suggestions/leads that I could try out would be greatly appreciated. I've thought of swapping the flyback transformer, swapping the video board, swapping the....that's pretty much it, actually. Couldn't find any individual components that looked suspicious/damaged, so falling back against my own, I've decided to turn to any experts here who could help me out, please! Cheers,
  19. AgoraRoad

    What vintage macs do you own?

    Here i have a Macintosh SE/30s that i found on the side of the road with a bunch of keyboards. Only one of them is working but i need to save up for a Floppy Emulator drive to really get this going!Post what you got below! http://www.agoraroad.com/macforum/vintage-computers/what-vintage-macs-do-you-own/
  20. Hello all, It’s been quite a while since I’ve posted here, and it’s good to be back! I had a quick question for you Portable people out there: I just recently recapped a clean-looking backlit model, and it seems to be working fine off of my bench supply running at 6.8v. The problem is, lowering the voltage to 6.7, 6.6, or 6.5v makes booting either hit-or-miss or impossible. Also, I bought a new 6V 5Ah SLA battery (not the cyclon pack) to power the system. Even after being charged up to its max of 6.6V, while connected to the original charger, the machine refuses to boot completely. Sometimes it gets farther on just the battery, but never all the way. I guess my question is this: is this normal for a backlit Portable? Is there some difference in the Cyclon battery that would bring it within spec? I would imagine the system should function properly at 6.5V given it’s designed to run for hours. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks guys!
  21. AlexTheCat123

    Macintosh Color Classic Sound Issue

    Hello! I recently purchased a broken Color Classic off of eBay and it arrived in the mail a few days ago. The capacitors on the logic board are leaky and I ran the board through the dishwasher to get all of the goo off. After doing this, I managed to get the computer to work and I plan to recap the logic board in the next few weeks. However, the sound suddenly stopped working when I booted it up today and at first I thought that the volume was just turned down. After turning it up, there was still no boot chime or any audio of any sort. Then I realized that the Color Classic was producing sound, but it was so quiet that even the case fan in the computer overpowered it. Trying to narrow down the cause of the problem, I plugged headphones into the machine and powered it up, hoping for the best. I got a perfect boot chime at normal volume! This leads me to believe that the logic board is not the culprit, although I still plan to recap it since the capacitors were leaky. I have a suspicion that the analog board is causing the problem and that it needs a recap. Can someone confirm this before I order a bunch of capacitors and start the painstaking process of replacing all of the caps on the analog board? It would be great if someone could point out the capacitors on the analog board that deal with the audio so that I would only have to replace those. Also, if I am on the wrong track and the problem is something totally different, please let me know! Thanks! Alex
  22. Retro Rider

    Macintosh Classic horizontal line

    I got 2 Macintosh classic's (with some other stuff) not so long ago, and when I booted up the Mac classics, they both had this line (see picture, although one of them was a little dimmer. Also one in the pic has had varying results). One of them crapped out while I was trying to fix it and smelt like burn, but the other one still shows a line. I haven't really been able to find anyone else with this problem, so how do I fix this?
  23. I just got my hands on a new IIfx upgrade board (not the one that just sold on eBay for 600, I actually lost that) from an old Apple dev I met on Facebook. The thing was pristine but of course I recapped it to eliminate variables, and after getting all the parts together it's not booting. Instead what happens is the power supply comes to life, and the two floppy drives start firing off like crazy and chirp wildly for a second. There's no boot chime or death march chord, and the speaker/psu/drives all worked fine when this was still just a IIx. Any suggestions? I'm getting desperate to get the thing working. I haven't found anyone else online with this issue and all the books including dead Mac scrolls couldn't give me anything either...
  24. Hopefully, this would come in handy for anyone curious about the PCMCIA module made for the PowerBook 500 series. I've posted as many pictures from various angles of the board assembly and parts (in case anyone has interest in planning modifications and how much space is inside the module) as I don't intend to open this up very often. If at all. There are three hex screws, one plastic tab, and a sticker holding my Rev C module together. I didn't have a hex bit of the correct size, but a Torx T6 proved a snug fit that allowed me to remove the screws. When I depressed the plastic tab back a small distance, I was able to carefully lift and separate the pieces only slightly, hinging at the sticker in the back. Some patient "working" back and forth allowed me to carefully separate the sticker from one of the pieces, and the unit was opened. I worked the board assembly from the back to the front to lift it from the bottom molding. The module ejection mechanism is separate from the board, and is a fixture on the bottom molding - it may be difficult to replace if it becomes damaged. Here is the bottom side of the board assembly. All pieces, angled, minus screws. Left side top (from front of module). Right side top (from front of module). Left side bottom (from front of module). Right side bottom (from front of module). Overview of bottom of board. All pieces of the module. Front hinging doors of the module. There is one stretched "rubber band" that acts to spring the doors back to resting position. If this part breaks someday, you could probably just install a rubber band to replace it...I'm actually surprised this one hasn't dry-rotted, yet. Or hack another spring assembly to your fancy. Okay. Just let me know when you make USB and cardbus possible for the 500 series.
  25. belaboy

    SE/30 32-bit question

    So I acquired a Macintosh SE/30 this weekend, it was recapped, upgraded to 68MB RAM and had a SCSI2SD interface set up. Unfortunately I was naive enough to think a few months of watching YouTube videos would prepare me in handling this. I tried flashing a BasiliskII image onto the SD card thinking it would boot from there, but I guess formatting it raw like that removes the SCSI drivers, so the system doesn't read it. After finding the thread on initializing SCSI2SD on here, I realize I have to begin from scratch. I placed an order for the 7.3.5 Disk Tools disk set and began prepping for the fresh install, but then I started wondering about the 32bit processing and RAM. I know by default, the machine is 32-bit dirty, and has to be "cleaned" with MODE32 or a ROM upgrade. The thing is, I'm not 100% sure what the original owner did. So my question, assuming the ROM isn't 32-bit clean, will the OS fail to boot with the 68MB installed? There are 4 16MB and 4 1MB RAM sticks, so would I have to remove the 64MB RAM before proceeding? Honestly, how should i go about doing this in general? Not sure if it's helpful, but I'll just toss in a picture of the system info prior to me messing things up haha. Thank you
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