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OCCUPATION

Found 11 results

  1. Yes, even the Macintosh 128k/512k KEYBOARD needs to be recapped: But does it really need to be 63V? Here's the keyboard schematic, with the 1uF cap showing in the upper right area nearest U2: And U2 is the 74LS123 shown here: Sure, I can find a Mouser $3.23 replacement, but why is the stock cap rated at 63V? Is it because people might be stupid and connect the keyboard to a phone jack, or is there some other reason? The reason I even wonder about this is because if lower voltage 1uF caps can safely be used in this keyboard, then more replacement options present themselves that are better and cheaper too. I look forward to your insightful replies!
  2. I just recapped my Macintosh IICX because it was having the common issue where the computer won't turn on and the power supply just clicks over and over again. Also, the sound wasn't working. After recapping the computer, the machine turns on just fine, but there is no chime and nothing is displayed on the screen. Do you think that I messed something up while recapping it or is there some other explanation to this problem? By the way, it worked fine before I did the recap on the rare occasion that it would actually power on without clicking repeatedly.
  3. Dear Members Recently I noticed my Quadra 950 not responding correctly to power ups, it was somewhat intermittent - the PSU appears to work as expected however. I took it apart and pulled the logic board out and noticed that a tantalum capacitor had burned up, it had some white powdery substance on top and appeared cracked in half. I carefully cleaned the area in and around the cap and while doing so it literally fell apart. The pad came loose either before or during cleanup but continuity is good — for now I applied a drop of solder until someone here can guide me on which capacitor to buy and where. Can someone give me a link to a source where I can buy the same capacitor? I was unable to read anything off the capacitor due to the damage. PS, I know the pad to the right looks nasty but it had come loose but continuity is fine. Thanks so much, please refer to the images for guidance on where it is on the board. Kind regards —Alex
  4. jefframsey

    Laserwriter Pro 630

    I finished recapping the comms board in my LW Pro 630 and now it is working once again! I still need to replace the caps on the DC controller board but at least it is working now that the communication board is resurrected. As soon as my next shipment from DigiKey comes in, I'll get the two caps on DC controller swapped out and she should be like a new printer. I have connected the MiniDin-8 to my Apple IIgs, and the ethertalk to the network. I configured ethertalk to my Raspberry Pi running A2SERVER and then shared it via CUPS to all of the modern computers in the house. The computers that I have in this house that can all print to this printer without changing wires are as follows: Apple IIgs (GS/OS 6.0.4) Mac SE (7.0.1) Mac Color Classic (7.0.1) iMac 5,1 (10.7.5) Macbook Pro (2011) Macbook Pro (2008) Macbook (2017) As soon as I can get the Laserwriter drivers installed, I'll be adding my Powerbook 540c to the list.
  5. AlexTheCat123

    Macintosh Color Classic Sound Issue

    Hello! I recently purchased a broken Color Classic off of eBay and it arrived in the mail a few days ago. The capacitors on the logic board are leaky and I ran the board through the dishwasher to get all of the goo off. After doing this, I managed to get the computer to work and I plan to recap the logic board in the next few weeks. However, the sound suddenly stopped working when I booted it up today and at first I thought that the volume was just turned down. After turning it up, there was still no boot chime or any audio of any sort. Then I realized that the Color Classic was producing sound, but it was so quiet that even the case fan in the computer overpowered it. Trying to narrow down the cause of the problem, I plugged headphones into the machine and powered it up, hoping for the best. I got a perfect boot chime at normal volume! This leads me to believe that the logic board is not the culprit, although I still plan to recap it since the capacitors were leaky. I have a suspicion that the analog board is causing the problem and that it needs a recap. Can someone confirm this before I order a bunch of capacitors and start the painstaking process of replacing all of the caps on the analog board? It would be great if someone could point out the capacitors on the analog board that deal with the audio so that I would only have to replace those. Also, if I am on the wrong track and the problem is something totally different, please let me know! Thanks! Alex
  6. AwkwardPotato

    Beige G3 Recap

    Does the Beige Power Macintosh G3 often need to be recapped? I'll be receiving one soon and I want to know if I should prepare to recap it. I haven't seen many reports of them needing to be recapped, but I just wanted to make sure if it's a common problem or not. Thanks!
  7. Hi I just need a second opinion and potentially a little help locating a part. I am taking apart an iMac G3, cleaning and inspecting after I found a compromised battery. While going through the process I discovered that the largest capacitor on the Power Supply Board, Ver. 2 appears bulged to the touch and visually. Now, I did try to locate this part and it appears available in bulk which I don't want, I only need one but I was thrown off by the 400wv designation. What does wv mean? Could someone confirm if this is indeed a bulged cap and if you think it is, where can I find one? It reads SMH 470uF 400wv (M) 85°C (location is C905 on the Power Supply Board v.2) Pics of the cap. Thanks in advance for your expertise advice. Kind regards —Alex
  8. Challenger 1983

    Help!

    I was reading about the dangers of not replacing PSU capacitors on PowerBook duos, and today I get my one chance to go by capacitors so I need schematics for the 210
  9. Has anyone tried replacing the two metal can electrolytic surface mount capacitors on the IIci cache card with tantalum equivalents?
  10. I've recently gotten my hands on an old SE/30 that was stored quite well for the last few decades. I booted the machine up 2 years ago, and at the time it worked like a charm. When I went to start it up recently it displayed a typical Simasima (Horizontal lines, no boot) symptoms. I've done the following things: - Replaced the PRAM battery (it was totally dead) - Cleaned board thouroughly (although have not given it a full bath) - Replaced capacitors: C1, C3, C4, C5, C7, C8, C9, C10, C12, C13 (with 47µF, 16v, tantalum) and C6 (with 1µF 50V, electrolytic). I did not replace C11 or C2 (axial). - Removed and cleaned ROM SIMM - Removed and cleaned all RAM The good news is – it works! The machine now boots up and functions well. However, there are a few issues I have't been able to figure out: 1. The screen has a checkered pattern, almost as if its off register. However, all the troubleshooting information I've found basically says the machine shouldn't boot with a checkered pattern. 2. There isn't a proper bootup sound, although sometimes it does make a really strange garbled boot tone 3. The floppy drive is dead (probably unrelated) I'm looking for any suggestions people might have. Here are my best guesses, but I'm completely stabbing in the dark: - C2 or C11 is bad and causing the issue? - I have a cold solder(s) on my recap job (I would give my recap a B-)? - There's some kind of issue with the monitor's calibration? I've included a video of the strange boot. Any help would be appreciated! IMG_7242.mov
  11. just.in.time

    SE/30 worked until it didn't

    I'm new to this forum, if I do anything outside the rules let me know and I will correct my postings as appropriate. I recently acquired an SE/30 with 8mb ram and 80mb hard drive. It is in decent physical condition, and even included an ethernet networking card. ]'> Gentleman shipped it to me, I unpacked it, plugged it in, and used it for 5 minutes. It ran great and the display was bright and sharp. Audio was fairly quiet but working (its max was about the same as my SE FDHD's mid level I suppose) I then proceed to open up the case to put in a new battery. Luckily the original 9/1989 dated battery hadn't leaked yet. Using canned compressed air I dusted off the logic board. Surrounding almost every capacitor was a faint wet-looking spot in the dust. I'm guessing the capacitors are shot. Reassembled and hooked everything up. Upon flipping the switch it ran great for 2 minutes, then restarted on its own and continued to run normally for another ~45 seconds. At this point it hard locked, not even the mouse would move. I flipped the power off, waited 10 seconds, flipped it back on and was greeted with the standard chime but a garbled display showing roughly what had been on the display when it froze. Also, despite the regular startup chime there was no further hard drive activity. In an attempt to fix the problem, I removed the new battery and network card. Still no go. Checked voltage at hard drive power supply. I'm seeing 12.15 and 5.07. Letting the system set for 5 minutes with no power I was just getting a gray display (like you would see right before the happy mac appears) and faint startup chime, but no mouse or disk activity. At this point I stopped powering on the system as I didn't want to cause additional damage. From here, what should I do? I know the caps will need to be replaced. I've read that people wash the logic board....??? If so, what are the steps to do that? Should I do it before or after replacing the caps? Is that leaking fluid bad for the board, and if so, how long before it starts causing damage? I have very limited soldering skills. Also heard people mentioning hot air guns and this special gel that melts into solder. Youtube videos make that look a little easier but I'm not sure. Most likely, I'll go pick up an old dvd player or vcr from goodwill to practice on before trying my hand on an SE/30 board. From the description of the symptoms, is this a salvageable system?
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