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  1. Many good strategies here. Check it out!
  2. Alex

    Hiroshi Nogushi Wavelan driver

    Here you go … https://archive.org/details/newton_ethernet_drivers
  3. I created an item on the internet archive for all 2000, 2100, and eMate fans. https://archive.org/details/newton_ethernet_drivers Includes the Hirochi Noguchi shareware (now freeware) LucentWaveLAN.pkg and related open source software. Enjoy.
  4. An impromptu live recapping Old electronic devices with surface mount electrolytic capacitors are often affected by capacitor leakage. Watch Bruce of Branchus Creation muddle through the recapping of a Macintosh IIvi. New to recapping? Watch the man and learn some cool stuff. Enjoy!
  5. Alex

    Mac Classic Flyback Transformer Needed

    A little pricey perhaps but this is relative, https://www.ebay.com/itm/157-026C-Flyback-1570026B-Replaces-Apple-HR-42031-/400922654856
  6. I use Arctic, https://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/products/cooling/thermal-compound.html. For whatever reason Byrd appears to have a second opinion on my preference. In any event … any brand of thermal paste will beat whatever is still in your machine. Whatever you consider, maybe read some reviews to get a second opinion. @Byrd brings up an excellent point, one thing I overlooked are any 3rd party cards. Here's what you can do … remove any 3rd party card or other internal device and for that matter apply the same consideration to external devices. In other words try to reduce the hardware configuration to as close to an out of box situation as possible. After you've done this, try to reproduce the issue. Give it as much time as it would normally need to reach that same heat level that you initially reported. If the issue can not be reproduced with those internal/external devices removed then shutdown, add one device at a time and again, try to reproduce the issue. If you eventually find that a particular device does provoke the issue to be reproducible consider any outdated software that corresponds to that device. As Byrd said, something may keep waking the machine while it sleeps but those resets, if you've done them correctly are there to correct sleep issues. Well not all those links refer to that issue but one of them does. So, even though you should apply new thermal paste, you should also put an effort into understanding what might be triggering the machine to potentially be waking from sleep. If you need to test with clean software, when it is a point of suspicion, you can always boot from a clean install on another volume or from optical.
  7. First, can you describe the degree of "really hot"? So hot that you can't keep your hand on the heatsink. So hot that if you were to keep your hand in contact with the heatsink it might cause discomfort and eventually some potential burn mark on your hand? This kind of hot? Can you keep your hand on the heatsink without feeling discomfort yet still report it as very hot? Answering this will help understand the degree of heat being described as "really hot". Despite this, I would consider turning off the machine, letting it cool and then proceed with removing the heatsink, removing the old thermal paste with thermal paste remover and then apply new (not expired) thermal paste. This would be my first step especially if touching the heat sink results in discomfort and an urge to remove your hand from the heatsink. After doing this you could rule out old thermal paste as the culprit, which I assume you have not yet changed. So I recommend new thermal paste and then test the machine. If heat persists then ensure that those fans are operating as expected. Replace the 3.6V battery ----------Remember, your machine is old now and as it ages further parts lose their resilience and need replenishing. This is a matter of fact. Don't dismiss the articles below based solely on their titles, please read them they can help you relate the contents of your question to potential reasons for the reported heat issue. I wouldn't put them here otherwise. Basically the machine may not be going into sleep as prescribed so a reset may be due but please read these articles as there are precautions declared that I advise you review to avoid damaging the main logic board. Power Mac G4 (PCI Graphics): Resetting the Logic Board Power Mac G4 (AGP Graphics/Gigabit Ethernet): Resetting the PMU on the Logic Board Power Mac G4 (PCI Graphics): Resetting the Cuda Chip Let me know how it goes but in summary, new thermal paste and a new battery are highly recommended. Cheers! —Alex
  8. Alex

    Discharging a CRT - video

    I like the cautionary note on discharging, yes this really must be your ultimate goal after popping the case. With all due respect, waiting 2 weeks is unnecessary as a discharge will bleed *all charge* out the CRT, even after it has been plugged in minutes before the discharge procedure. You can do a discharge procedure 2 or 3 times if it makes you feel safer, as a precaution but there is no need to wait two weeks. There really isn't. Here is a practical example. Let's say I wait those two weeks, maybe because I am truly frightened and believe that allowing this time to go by makes me feel safer. I am not here to argue anyone's fear of something, it's an instinct and natural but in practical terms … let's say I do wait those 2 weeks. My next step would be to remove the case and discharge the CRT. Now I begin work, recapping or whatever, then I reassemble the machine and find that I have not resolved the issue. I will need to switch off the machine, unplug the chord for the outlet, remove the logic board and discharge the CRT. Discharge because I want to avoid any bodily harm and or damage to the computer. I won't wait 2 weeks before proceeding. Discharging is safe and is in fact a safety step when working on any hardware that has a CRT. If you follow the video closely you will be safe. I can assure you that this is one of the best videos on the topic that I have seen. I can't remember if it was mentioned in the video, forgive me if it was but remove any jewelry, keep one hand behind your back, don't wear synthetic clothing, do not ground yourself, and when possible, have someone in the room when discharging a CRT. Here is why: If something goes wrong, having your hand behind your back will force the charge to travel away from your chest where your heart can really get messed and potentially cause a heart attack. Using cotton versus synthetic clothing will prevent burns, synthetic material is very good at holding a charge and you should never wear synthetics to begin with when working on electronics, it can hold and release enough to zap electronics. Removing jewelry is a precaution incase something does go wrong, the charge would be enough to attract the charge to those metals causing potential burn marks to the body. Having someone in the room is recommended in the event something goes wrong and you are knocked out, that person would be there to call an ambulance. These sound like extreme precautions but CRTs are not toys. When at AppleCare, the desktop technician exam was made up of two parts, safety and technical. If a single answer was incorrect in the safety portion of the exam it was enough to fail. Hope this helps. Let me tell you a story about my own fears. The first machine that I opened up was an eMac and I had to get near the CRT. I had no idea how to discharge the CRT but I knew that I was dealing with a potentially dangerous repair especially because I was conscious that there was an obvious knowledge gap. I was as scared as can be but I managed to stay clear of any of the high voltage areas. This was years before I passed the apple desktop technician exam. When at AppleCare, I had to discharge a CRT when practicing. The probe was not a screw driver as in Bruce's video, it was actually a very long probe, it was not an official Apple part, why I don't know but it was so long that one would be a few feet away when discharging. I found it to be cumbersome because you actually end up having a hard time getting under the anode cap. Sorry for the long message but I want anyone coming across this post to be safe and know how to be safe because it helps to feel confident about the procedure and that is always a good thing in my book. Cheers
  9. Should be if the model of drive in your machine is part 661-2342. In my case I have verified that the drive in my system is SR-8186. System profiler will provide the information you need to confirm the part in your particular iMac. For cases where part substitution(s) are a consideration one must reach a solid conclusion before considering parts.
  10. Alex

    Discharging a CRT - video

    When working on the Mac at some point you will need to plug it for testing and when doing so you will have charged up the CRT. If the issue you are attempting to resolve remains unresolved, you will need to continue working and therefore need to discharge the CRT so although the CRT may lose charge while waiting for parts, as a practical matter, when working on the machine you will need to discharge should the issue remain unresolved. So what I am trying to say is that discharging is easy and safe, it will keep you safe, whether it is partially charged or fully charged, it should be done each and everytime you work around a CRT. You can never be too careful, these are extraordinarily large charges that can cause serious bodily harm or even death. The moral of the story is, discharge each time to provide safety.
  11. ok what you need is here, https://archive.org/details/AppleLegacyRecoveryDisks or perhaps here on the Garden, I say perhaps because there is no tree listing for this disc: https://macintoshgarden.org/apps/apple-legacy-software-recovery-cd When you land on this page, instruct your browser to search for 9150 and you will find it listed.
  12. 9150, http://archive.compgeke.com/Operating Systems/Apple/System 7.1.2/7.1.2-AWS 9150/ Above is incase, what is the part number for the CD? It will help me more affective at finding what you need.
  13. I will absolutely update this post but it may be 60 days from this writing before I receive the package.
  14. I don't know if the DV SE uses the same drive. As a precaution, you should confirm which optical drive is in your particular iMac just incase. Please refer to the table I pasted at the top. As you can see there are a few different optical drives in use, whether they are all interchangeable is not something I've studied.
  15. I just ordered, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32983303377.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.5f005f77qXKDwj&algo_pvid=b459d88e-277c-41da-a996-955b6af9b253&algo_expid=b459d88e-277c-41da-a996-955b6af9b253-8&btsid=c2c0d30f-f820-47e2-bab9-0f3e01d9db8f&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3,searchweb201603_55 It will arrive in March 2020, yup from China so it will takes ages to arrive.