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Alex

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  1. Alex

    PowerBook 150 - screens all destroyed?!

    Ok, I feel pretty dumb, polarizer, as in Polaroid as in the film that is being peeled away in all this talk. Sorry about my complete fumble. I should read first instead of littering this gem of a post.
  2. Alex

    PowerBook 150 - screens all destroyed?!

    This is one very interesting post. Man I wish there was a wiki. I have to read this entirely as I have some of these affected models. I better go and check them out. @Franklinstein, excuse my ignorance but what is a polarizer?
  3. Hello Franklinstein, I am not sure if your message is for me but if it is, I did indeed replace the capacitor on my 950. The originals are tantalum and I replaced it with another one. To be honest now, I don't even know if I switched it on to test it, can you imagine? I would think I did though but well, there isn't much to say, whether or not I did turn it on at the time but it's one of those things, a bad cap has to get replaced and it's very cheap to do. On a side note, the reason I question whether I turned it on after the cap replacement is that I have a pile of machines and other gear kind of sitting there. I have yet to find time to truly organize all my equipment. I have plans but I thought I should explain why I am not confident if I ran on power cycle after the fix, as I write this though I am more inclined to think I did as it's in my nature to do so.
  4. Alex

    Extra confusing Classic checkerboard

    Maybe this will help:
  5. Alex

    Extra confusing Classic checkerboard

    There is mention of a pullup resistor but it's in the video section. This is version 1.1 of the doc, http://home.earthlink.net/~gamba2/images/plus_analog.PDF This is version 2 of the doc, http://www.ccadams.org/se/classicmac2.pdf
  6. Alex

    Extra confusing Classic checkerboard

    I sort of understand the issue, sort of because I don't know how to properly measure the voltages so I don't even know what they should be but check this article (link below), you might have seen it already but it does go through resets and voltages. You should quickly come to determine if the article is helpful or not. https://archive.org/stream/Classic_Mac_Repair_Notes/Classic_Mac_Repair_Notes_djvu.txt From what I have read, I wonder if the power supply is actually delivering the proper voltage and is not dipping enough to cause the checkerboard, I believe this can happen, at least this is how I understood things from the first link I sent you. In terms of what I suspect is the "343S0045-B" UA5 Sound IC, I too haven't been able to find a data sheet but I wonder if the Guide_to_the_Macintosh_Family_Hardware (Second Edition).pdf that is on archive.org has more for you on this front. Also, I was thinking, the MAME (MESS) emulator people probably know a thing or two about that chip, especially because they had to emulate it. I wonder if they might have a data sheet or some other reference. Incidentally I found a link, http://mess.redump.net/mess/driver_info/mac_technical_notes but it might not be enough. I really wish I could help you further but I hope the @techknight chimes in because he has quite a bit of knowledge and he may know. I will be watching this with interest. Best wishes.
  7. How did it go? Success removing the apple logo?
  8. Some large caps are bulgy looking. If you press on it you will notice that it doesn't resist. The only way to be sure is to remove it from the board and measure it with a multimeter. Replace all other caps, especially if they are leaky. 150 or whatever for anything of this vintage is, in my opinion, too expensive. These machines were shipped in the millions. Granted, they are all old now and likely need new caps anyway. If you want to have fun, then this is part of the hobby, replacing caps can be fun and it's not that hard. If you buy all the caps for this machine it will be way cheaper than whatever that online store wants. It just takes time to desolder and solder on new caps. I agree with Brett, just get an IDE drive, especially if you install any flavor of OS X on that machine. OS X is a busy OS and will press on the drive with much more tenacity than OS 9. That being said, I would still believe that you are not going to see any speed gains. If it is silence that you are after, a modern IDE drive at a low RPM (5400 or less) will be quieter albeit slows. The high RPM can yield performance at the cost of noise. Personally I would go for a simple IDE drive. Just to go back to the analog board question, you can get a like for like, just read the model number off the board. You can share the model number with us as there may be more reliable revisions but I wouldn't bother, just recap it all but of course that takes time. I hope this helps. I support whatever decision you take but the above is the personal path I would take. It is also more within the spirit of a circular economy. Cheers!
  9. If you see the little hole then press using a paper clip or some other pointed object that can fit through the hole. The little Apple logo will pop out, store somewhere until you finish whitening then just put it back, that's all.
  10. Here are some notes on Networking http://www.atpm.com/8.05/networking.shtml Some ebay auctions using search query "performa 630 comm slot" https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=performa+630+comm+slot&_sacat=0
  11. Question: Can that Mac that you want to get software off of join a local ethernet network? If the answer is yes, turn that machine into an FTP server with https://www.macintoshrepository.org/2783-netpresenz and then you can connect to it from any Mac, any PC, or any other client that can make an FTP connection. Yes even Macs FTP clients going all the wayup to 10.13.x So the old Mac becomes an FTP server via NetPresenz software, free by the author. The said Mac must be connected to your ethernet LAN network. From there ANY Machine, Mac or otherwise can connect to it via a vanilla FTP connection. It will work flawlessly and you can achieve your goal without floppies. You can send files to that old Mac or copy files from that old Mac. Remember to .sit your files first though or there may be issues with data forks. Zip doesn't support data forks so it will get dropped if you use zip and the file you transferred becomes unusable. That's it!
  12. Hi Before I go into some potential actions I would take I need to stress on the safety aspect of the CRT. I am glad you raised this concern. For this particular concern I will refer you to http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=760956&seqNum=2 However, in terms of recapping, I do recommend it. If I am not mistaken, disassembly to the stage of freeing the logic board for a recap should not require high voltage components being exposed to the point of considering CRT safety procedures. I can't say this with confidence without confirming the iMac G3 model you have. Apple's warrenty database will identify the type of Mac you have. Your serial number is securely sent, but you get only the name of your machine. https://selfsolve.apple.com/agreementWarrantyDynamic.do This site provides more information, but lacks security. http://www.appleserialnumberinfo.com/Desktop/index.php In terms of the irregular behavior on cold boot and the requirement to enter the open firmware prompt to eventually succeed to the desktop. At the firmware prompt enter these lines, pressing Return after each one: reset-nvram set-defaults reset-all Maybe a firmware update is required, it wouldn't hurt to try: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT1395 Identifying the specific model will narrow down other possibilities. Reset PRAM, this one I see has already been offered as I write this. Report back if PRAM reset doesn't resolve the issue.
  13. Alex

    Powerbook 2400c with GLOD

    Thanks for reminding me of my own post. Oh my goodness, I forgot about that. I will review my own post and @Byrd thank you for the cautionary note. I have the bonafide Apple 2400C adapter so of course I will use that. Thank you both!
  14. Alex

    Powerbook 2400c with GLOD

    Hi Byrd I can't say with all honesty that I checked the motherboard for fuses. I didn't realize the MOBO had fuses. I know I checked the power board fuses several times and there is continuity. I will have to go back and check the MOBO in a few days. The last time I checked the machine was about 2-3 months ago when I had rebuilt the internal PRAM battery. I will check the fuses on the MOBO and then report back. I will provide a detailed report on all fuses checked so that it is here on the record. Thank you for letting me know! In the meantime, just a quick question, are there schematics anywhere around? This machine has virtually no documentation to be found.
  15. Alex

    Powerbook 2400c with GLOD

    Thanks for the reply. I have a working removal battery that I tried and the internal PRAM battery has been rebuilt and I can confirm that it works as expected. So to answer your question, both batteries are working.
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