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Alex

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  1. So I have the drive mechanism open again. I am manually moving the gears to simulate disc insertion and ejection. The robber roller and the old belt are very good at gripping the disc, the problem actually is strongly pointing to the magnetic ring. It appears to be a barrier of entry and exit for the disc. For entry the magnetic ring is not as contentious because on can gently push on the disc but on exit it's more complicated as only a small sliver of the disc protrudes past the iMac's disc insertion/exit slot and because ejection is unsuccessful after a few seconds the drive injects it again. I did try an external adapter meant to power a bare SATA/IED HDD drive as it has a molex power end on it but it fails to power up the drives in their chassis. The optical drive has no such molex connector so what I may do is plug it into the Mac via it's own native cables and see if I can view and insert eject. I will keep you all posted. I am taking photos along the way so I will eventually create a blog post detailing my steps but for now I will use replies as a form of note keeping and status updates.
  2. lob, I meant lubricant. I replied to your message first thing in the morning hence the typos and what nots.
  3. @JDW thank you for your reply and advice. I sincerely appreciate it. It sound complicated even though you explained it very well. I simply lack the background knowledge and experience take your comments forward to a practical set up. I may just work around the issue by reducing the hard disk/optical cage by removing the HD leaving the optical drive casing removed if possible. This will potentially allow me to view the drive in motion. Even without an OS the optical drive should inject and eject by its own devices, at least I hope so and perhaps this will allow me enough visibility to see the mechanics of the drive work. It may also be that the drive does indeed need the new belt in place, something I thought I could avoid for now. I also believe that the little wheels that the belt wraps around might be contaminated with some lob causing the belt to slip. I will keep folks updated because I know that there is interest for others. Thanks again for your time and expert advice! Sincerely —Alex
  4. I was tempted to suggest you replace the voltage regulator as well. I haven't on mine but I may very well do it even though the machine hasn't exhibited any issue with only a cap replacement. See https://www.electronicspoint.com/forums/threads/help-needed-quadra-950-tantalum-capacitor-identification-needed.287007/ and Two places where I taught help and found it. Everything you need should be there. This is what I was told and I went by it but never measure the voltage regulator because I hadn't yet learned how to do that. Q: Is C26 a 10uF, 16V cap, A: yes it is go to mouser, Farnell as 2 examples Q: Should I replace the voltage regulator as well? A: If there is +5V coming out of it .... no CAUTION: When removing the old cap be extra careful, the caps catastrophic failure, essentially an explosion may have put the pads under some serious pressure causing them to potentially come loose or be damaged. So very carefully remove the damaged cap, thoroughly clean the pads being careful not use anything that might pry them off. When a pad has unseated from the logic board it can be very fragile as it is ultra thin copper. If the pad(s) is beyond repair you may have to use jumper cables or find an appropriate alternative to seat any new cap. That's one of the drawbacks with tantalums, when they go, they are like a mini bomb and can tear things around it somewhat. As long as you are careful and methodical, prefix the job by reading the area of the board, taking mental notes on what you can see is wrong and create a strategy to go in and remove the old cap for eventual replacement you will be grand!
  5. toothbrush, run isopropyl alcohol over the board after you do your brushing and it will push water out and isopropyl alcohol dries pretty fast, still let it sit because if ANY water isn't dry after the alcohol wash you might not be happy.
  6. Wonderful, my 950 had a cap blown in the exact same location, got it that way second hand. Replace the cap and you should be ok. Do have details on the cap you need or should I open up my machine to check for you?
  7. Today I took the machine apart again. Firstly I noticed that the replacement drive belts I received from China were slightly thinner and were much more rubbery, softer, not sure how to put it. Now, I didn't yet replacement the best because the roller, pictured above was not spinning with the inner shaft. In other words, the rubber rollers wouldn't spin so no CD was ever going to come out, with or without a new belt. What I did was remove the section that holds the roller and cleaned the heck out of it, warm water and detergent then a 15 minute bath in enough isopropyl alcohol cleaner. As it remained submerged I agitated the rubber rollers, sliding them on the metal shaft to get it clean underneath. This made no difference so I got some thin double sided tape, pulled back one side of the rubber roller and then wrapped a small amount of double sided tape without overlapping it on to itself. I applied double sided tape to both sides of the roller. I then reassembled the computer and discs only manage to peek out a little, they fail to eject still. I have to change the belt now but these replacements seem rather soft but maybe they can apply enough tension. I also need to ensure any and all line is completely cleaned off from the mechanics that drive the belt or it might slip but the rubber roller is indeed spinning with the shaft it is slid over. I wish I could power the drive while it is disassembled so that I can test it without having to reassemble the whole computer each time. I really need to isolate the issue if it failed to eject again. I can certainly here the motor work inside the Mac. The optical drive reads discs just fine too. Any advice on this?
  8. The board should be cleaned. This is what I do first, preferably with an ultrasonic cleaner. Once cleaned I would move on with a more in-depth visual inspection. Do you have or know someone or a business who can clean the board. I have a 950, big board, it's going to take a large ultrasonic cleaner … How would a cap blow, there are no electrolytic, only tantalums. I don't recall seeing any electrolytic caps although it is possible that a short might have blow a tantalum cap. Personally, I would never wash a board in a regular dish washer. Never. The water itself is not up to the task. You may introduce the board to corrosion, especially hidden parts. I can tell you that other people here say they would do it - I would never dream of it. Much preferable to do it as you are now, with alcohol and a brush, of course an ultrasonic cleaner is the way to go. Find a service that can clean the board for you. These are old rare boards, don't mess it up with your dish washer. If possible don't blast water on the plastics, especially delicate parts. Some warm water and dishwashing detergent, an old tooth brush for hard to reach areas and a sponge and you should be good. A rinse and you have a clean case. The 950 has some of the best plastics I've seen on a Mac, fairly strong but of course it does have a few weak spots and a few small parts that require some careful handling. Not sure what else I can add but these things come to mind. Ah, to clean try submerging the board in isopropyl alcohol for a few minutes, then use a soft brush to scrub lightly. Then let the board stand to rinse. That could be another approach as well. You will need a large container and a fair amount of isopropyl alcohol though, the latter might be more expensive now due to the COVID2019 pandemic, not entirely sure though on price but usually it is not terribly expensive. Does your machine have the signatures inside the case? Maybe all 950s do?
  9. Quick update The belts arrived but I foresee some challenges with resolving this with only a new belt because the roller appears to spin independently of the shaft, this as per what I had documented above. I will confirm this and report back. I have some explaining to do … Sorry for not providing an update yet. Truth be told, since the COVID19 outbreak everyone is at home and I have had to spend a lot of time with my 6.5 year old daughter. Schools across our country will remain closed until 09/2020. I've also used up all my spare time getting up to speed with my website. Despite this I will be going through this post to remember my steps and see to it that I take some photos and document my process as carefully as I can. I will likely post a link here to nichrome.us where I blog my Mac adventures. Sadly it might be a real challenge to post anything directly here because I can't seem to upload any more images due to having reached some data quota on attachments which frustrates the process of using images to document steps and so on. I have contacted the admin here but never got a response. Until then, stay safe everyone, meaning stay inside as much as possible, disinfect and please wear a mask to protect yourself and others.
  10. I am going to suggest it. Have you tried to kill preference files? Darn it, if possible boot from a zip with a clean install. All you need are the zip drivers on the zip and it should boot (if memory serves). Otherwise try to boot from some floppy. A simple damaged file, like a preference file could trigger issues. Just a though.
  11. Thank you James. Indeed I removed it but then began wondering, hmm this must be hear for a reason. Never learned about it but I am pasting you answer here:
  12. So I just wanted to let folks that I ran a scrape on Motorola's old site using the wayback_machine_downloader and whatever came down the pipe can be found here: http://home.macintosh.garden/~alexs/mot.com_IA/ These were the filetypes downloaded, pdf|hqx|sit|dd|pkg|abs|bin|sea|cpt|dmg|txt. As most evert PDFs was irrelevant I removed them before uploading them.
  13. Alex

    Motorola Marco now working!

    This sit.hqx files can be found here: http://home.macintosh.garden/~alexs/mot.com_IA/
  14. Alex

    Motorola Marco now working!

    ok this Just a quick update, the Marco manual didn't come down leaving me to wonder if there ever was a PDF version of it on their site or if it was simply missed by the waybackmachine's spider or if was behind a robots.txt file. I have no way of knowing. Lots of other things came down … and other files ending with .bin. A few appear to be too small to really contain anything. I should move them to my Mac OS 9 machine and decompress them all to know for certain. 53 folders whose name contains Marco came down - there could be duplicates. I peaked inside one of them, it shows an FTP directory over http: Index of /pub/MIMS/WDG/Marco Name Last modified Size Description Parent Directory 13-Jul-1999 12:31 - README.TXT 26-Oct-1999 18:32 1k RADIOCHK.ZIP 26-Oct-1999 18:32 15k RADIOCHK.SIT 26-Oct-1999 18:32 16k MU102A.ZIP 26-Oct-1999 18:32 6k MU102A.SIT 26-Oct-1999 18:32 8k MARCODK.SIT 26-Oct-1999 18:32 178k FAXUPD10.ZIP 26-Oct-1999 18:32 8k FAXUPD10.SIT 26-Oct-1999 18:32 9k FAXUPD10.PKG 26-Oct-1999 18:32 19k I'm going to run another download on this material using a different method so that links are localized because at the moment links are broken. I will sort this and upload it on my Mac Garden repo for everyone to enjoy and discover. 2.0Motorola_V34R.sit.hqx 326x_ara.sit.hqx 326x_ara.sit.hqx 326x_first_class.sit.hqx 326x_first_class.sit.hqx 41.tif.sit.hqx 4196_3b.sl.sit.hqx 4196_3c.sl.sit.hqx 45.tif.sit.hqx 46.tif.sit.hqx 50_62.tif.sit.hqx 52_46.tif.sit.hqx 58.tif.sit.hqx 60.tif.sit.hqx 62.tif.sit.hqx 63_77_61.tif.sit.hqx 64.tif.sit.hqx 65.tif.sit.hqx 66.tif.sit.hqx 68.tif.sit.hqx 68.tif.sit.hqx 69.tif.sit.hqx 70.tif.sit.hqx 70.tif.sit.hqx 71.tif.sit.hqx 71.tif.sit.hqx 72.tif.sit.hqx 72.tif.sit.hqx 73.tif.sit.hqx 74.tif.sit.hqx 75.tif.sit.hqx 75.tif.sit.hqx 76.tif.sit.hqx 76.tif.sit.hqx 79.tif.sit.hqx 80.tif.sit.hqx 81.tif.sit.hqx 82.tif.sit.hqx 83.tif.sit.hqx 84_90.tif.sit.hqx 84.tif.sit.hqx 85_86.tif.sit.hqx 87_88.tif.sit.hqx 89.tif.sit.hqx 925_Sales_Guide.sit.hqx 925_Sales_Guide.sit.hqx 925-test.sit.hqx 925-test.sit.hqx ara.ccl.sit.hqx ARA.sit.hqx ARA.sit.hqx BASIC11.Sit BitSURFR_ccls.sit.hqx BitSURFR_ccls.sit.hqx BitSURFR_Pro_1J.sit.hqx BitSURFR_Pro_1JB.sit.hqx BitSURFR_Pro_1K.sit.hqx bitsurfr_pro_ccls.sit.hqx bitsurfr_pro_ccls.sit.hqx BitSURFR_Pro_REVG.sit.hqx BitSURFR_Pro_REVH.sit.hqx BitSURFR_Pro_REVHB.sit.hqx cellect_ara_cellular.sit.hqx cellect_ara_cellular.sit.hqx cellect_ara_landline.sit.hqx cellect_ara_landline.sit.hqx coldload_for_mac.sit.hqx FAXUPD10.SIT FAXUPD10.SIT FAXUPD10.SIT flash.sit.hqx freeterm.sit HMTA200.CCL.sit.hqx libmoto_macdev.sit.hqx libmoto_macuser.sit.hqx Lifestyle_33.6.CCL.sit.hqx Lifestyle288-576.CCL.sit.hqx Lifestyle288.mdm.sit.hqx MARCODK.SIT MARCODK.SIT mariner_installer.sit.hqx mariner_installer.sit.hqx mariner-aol.sit.hqx mariner-aol.sit.hqx Mariner288_Flash_Upg.sit.hqx Mariner336_Flash_Update.sit.hqx MBITSURF.MDM.sit.hqx MBITSURF.MDM.sit.hqx mo-mac.sit.html mo-mac.sit.html mo-mac.sit.html ModemSURFR.CCL.sit.hqx montana_flash_update.sit.hqx montana_flash_update.sit.hqx montana_installer.sit.hqx montana_installer.sit.hqx montana_newton_landline.sit.hqx montana_software.sit.hqx montana-aol.sit.hqx montana-ARA-144.sit.hqx Montana-ARA.sit.hqx Montana336_Flash_Update.sit.hqx MOT144CL.MDM.sit.hqx MOT144CL.SCR.sit.hqx MOT144LL.MDM.sit.hqx MOT144LL.MDM.sit.hqx MOT288.MDM.sit.hqx Motorola_FasTalk_II.sit.hqx Motorola_FasTalk_II.sit.hqx MU102A.SIT MU102A.SIT MU102A.SIT newton-drivers.sit.hqx newton-drivers.sit.hqx ns-mac.sit.html ns-mac.sit.html ns-mac.sit.html ns-mac.sit.html OnlineSURFR.CCL.sit.hqx OnlineSURFR.CCL.sit.hqx Power_REV5_Update.sit.hqx Power288-576.CCL.sit.hqx Power288-576.CCL.sit.hqx Power288.mdm.sit.hqx PROGD3.Sit Quarterly.pdf.sit.hqx QuickPrintDemo.sit.hqx RADIOCHK.SIT RADIOCHK.SIT RADIOCHK.SIT replica.sit TA210.CCL.sit.hqx TA210.mdm.sit.hqx UTA220.CCL.sit.hqx V3229.CCL.sit.hqx V3229.CCL.sit.hqx V34.mdm.sit.hqx v3400.ccl.sit.hqx Vanguard.sit.hqx Voice_CBT.sit.hqx
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