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genie_mac

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  1. genie_mac

    TAM

    Fair play to you! Stress is bad alright...hope it works out for you...what's your job description now? Messing around with Macs...nice one!
  2. genie_mac

    TAM

    Is there no Maplin's near you? Pain having to go through mail-order for those small bits and pieces. Did you try http://ie.rs-online.com/web/ ? Next day delivery, based in Dublin. Hope you'll get it going!
  3. genie_mac

    MacCHARLIE

    Cool! I'd love to get one, but I assume they are pretty rare. Although not quite as cool as AST's Mac86 SE card...now that would be the ultimate as far as I am concerned. Does anybody here have one / have info other than what's on the net (which isn't much). Even rarer than the MacCHARLIE I would say
  4. genie_mac

    SE/30 horizontal sweep lines....still!

    Congrats! Another one saved
  5. genie_mac

    Macintosh Plus boot problem - Maybe a cracked solder?

    Quite possible that the vinyl sleeve is not inserted properly and gets caught by the rear bucket. The sleeve needs to be pushed into the little plastic thingies that hold the analogue board.
  6. Really? That's really unusual! But at least I know now that the clock signal is not the problem...nice sine wave at all the chips that need a clock. Had a look at the M68000 datasheet and it specifies CLK as requiring a nice square wave. I wonder how they're getting away with a sine wave, especially as the amplitude is rather low..not much of the wave would be at defined logic high levels. Are there Schmitt triggers inside the chips?
  7. Yeah I checked there too Further down the line I'm still getting the same sine wave though...I hope it's not my cheapo scope
  8. The horizontal lines don't look like a video system problem to me, if it were vertical lines, it would be easier to figure out! Those SE/30's never cease to amaze with the type of problems you get. A new one every week PS: does anyone know what the 16Mhz clock signal on the SE/30 is supposed to look like? I assume it would be a nice square wave, but that's not what I'm getting on a faulty board. Can't check against a good board at the moment.
  9. genie_mac

    SE/30

    Nice job on the recapping. I had ghosting like that once and it was a bad (in my case non-existent ) ground connection on the CRT. Maybe check the CRT grounding strap on the video board that goes to the CRT frame.
  10. genie_mac

    ImageWrite II International users: Beware!

    Might try the 10 pound sledge to kick start the transistor
  11. genie_mac

    Miniscribe™ " The Brick " hard drive :-)

    Yeah Miniscribes make some cool sounds, mine nearly purrs like the stepper motor in old Commodore disk drives Has anyone else experienced read errors when using them? Techknight reckons it could be the head amps so I guess there is nothing you can do unless you have replacement parts.
  12. genie_mac

    ImageWrite II International users: Beware!

    Not even sure if overvoltage has caused the problem. PSU is a funny design alright, there is a big old transformer that outputs 37 VAC form a range of mains voltages (110-240V) and feeds a switch mode power supply. I can't see any obvious damage, desoldered rectifier and chopper transistor, they are OK. Desoldered all caps and they test good as well. There still is a short between power and ground at DC input to the PSU (after the rectifier). Might be the voltage regulator IC, this crazy 18pin IC (EC-A063) for which I can't find any info. Could pick up a replacement for $15 but shipping is another $25...not really worth it...not desperate enough yet
  13. genie_mac

    ImageWrite II International users: Beware!

    Yeah I can't be sure if over voltage has caused the failure. Just saying that the wrong voltage setting could be a problem and that voltage selection is not automatic. At least I found some schematics for it already, but there are some really hard to find components in there
  14. I finally managed to find a reasonably priced ImageWriter II on Ebay last week. Description said unit did turn on but no further testing was done. Seemed safe enough so ended up winning the auction for about 15 Euro. It finally arrived yesterday and I proceeded to, as I always do with old computer stuff, read the section in the manual on how to set things up. Seemed straight forward enough. Experience also taught me to have a good look at old equipment before I turn it on. So I find a small Voltage selector switch hidden away under the platen roller. It's set to 220V. Ok I change it to 240V just in case, but the printer came from the UK, where they have 240V. Hmmmm... Well, as you can guess, it is dead. Blown fuse and short in the power supply (I checked). I'm not trying to blame anyone here, but the strange thing is that there is absolutely no mention in the manual about having to select the correct voltage, especially as the sticker on the back looks like this: [attachment=0]IMG_0947.JPG[/attachment] How would you interpret this? Is it a universal power supply? It certainly is, but not an automatic one. Would you know that the correct voltage need to be set first? I guess if it said 100-240V that would imply that it is automatic, but still not that clear I would say. So just be careful if you have the international version! Well it's a real pity as the printer is in absolute immaculate condition. Maybe I'll be able to get just the power supply board (without the transformer) but even then I can't be sure if the rest of the electronics are OK
  15. I think that's correct, also I think my LC allows me to change the resolution from 512x384 to 560x384 to support the IIe card (which I really really want ). I think that's why the 12" RGB has a slightly higher horizontal refresh rate compared to the compacts to account for the extra lines. Would the SE/30's board be able to cope with the extra 10% or so (IIRC)?
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