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Everything posted by trag

  1. The way I remember it (need to check the developer notes) the Beige G3 actually uses a 53C96 or 53C94 cell for its SCSI support, but (and I may be confusing this with the B&W) there's a MESH cell in one of the big I/O chips that doesn't have its signal brought out to pins. It's just there because some part of the OS expects to find it.
  2. trag

    PRAM won't zap?

    It's rev. B or Rev. C. Which is good. But with only one device on each cable, it shouldn't matter any way. So, if you plug in either the CDROM drive or the IDE hard drive into either of the IDE ports, the machine does not boot? If that's the case, one last long shot, try a different memory stick. Why? It's possible that you have a faulty memory location and that the IDE's driver is always occupying the same location in memory, and that the two happen to correspond. Like I wrote, it is a long shot. I'm just having trouble accepting that both IDE ports would be bad. I don't think I've ever seen that in a Beige before.
  3. trag

    PRAM won't zap?

    Do you know what revision of the ROM that Beige G3 has? The Rev. A ROM did not support Master and Slave devices. I don't know if having both on the cable would cause such an issue. I can't remember the numbers actively, but would probably recognize which revision they go with. You can figure the ROM revision by reading the Apple part number off of the two ROM chips on the ROM module (unless you have one of the rare EEPROM built ones) or by booting up and then using Apple System Profiler to report the ROM revision. The latter will be something like $77D.45F1. The former will be 343S0401 or something like that. At a guess, it's more likely there's a problem with the CDROM than that there is a problem with the IDE ports. Could also be a bad IDE cable. Oh, check for bent pins on on the connectors. Sometimes one or more of those gets bent over, instead of going into the appropriate hole, and it gets shorted with a cable is plugged in and pressing against it. Yes, that looks like the caps may be leaking on that VRM.
  4. It's an interesting project, but I'm not getting emotionally invested in any new ideas, until I actually complete some old ones. I'm mostly focusing on making a living these days. It's going well, but takes a lot time. I'm working for Roku and we just got the new 4K TV models to market. Summer was bussssssssssseeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee. As I understand it, Acard's converter cards contain a custom processor of some sort. It may be a variant on an existing architecture, or it could be something their designers built from scratch. If the latter, reading out hte attached ROM isn't likely to mean much. It's probably full of object code for their custom processor. I'm also not htat convinced that some of their products are ATAPI only or disk only. The ones I've tried work great for both, and I don't see why they'd go to the work to reengineer it to remove abilties. But I'm happy to read actual test results that prove me wrong. My guess is they have one basic adapter design and they've been tacking on different SCSI/PATA/SATA protocols as necessary. I have a book at home titled something like, The IDE and SCSI Protocols. Looking at the command sets, I think Gorgonops is right a few posts up. It's mostly goign to take the tedious work of going through and translating, with probably a few corner cases and special cases where things just don't translate easily or require additional/special handling.
  5. trag

    PRAM won't zap?

    You should be able to zap the PRAM by holding down the key combination either before or after the start up chime. I've read, but am unceratin, that zapping it before the chime actually resets more parameters. Pulling the battery and pressing the CUDA switch should reset everything that is stored in NVRAM/PRAM memory. For that matter, you could just try pressing the CUDA switch, IIRC, near the back corner of the board near the third PCI slot. In cases like this, I recommend you remove the PCI video card, leave in the personality card, you need that, but remove the modem card from it, remove all the RAM but one stick, unplug all the hard drive cables, SCSI and IDE. Don't plug in a keyboard or mouse. Remove the battery. With machine unplugged, hold down the CUDA button for 30 seconds. Leave the battery out. The Beige doesn't need it to boot. Connect a known working monitor which is capable of 640 X 480 @ 67Hz to the built-in video. Power up with the power button on the front (back? can't remember). If you get a good start up bong, wait a couple of minutes to see if the monitor becomes active. If not, try a different memory module. If you can't get a good start up bong or video on the monitor, the problem must be on the motherboard or the monitor. It's unlikely, though possible, all three memory modules are bad. If you do get a good start-up screen (gray screen with disk icon and flashing ? mark) start adding components back. Start with a mouse. Then keyboard and mouse, etc. All that said, here's another possibility... The bus speed and CPU multiplier and cache ratio are controlled by a set of jumpers on the motherboard. Are those still in their original position? Does the machine still have the original CPU module installed? Also, you may wish to check the heat sink grease between the CPU and heat sink. If it's turned to powder, you could have a simple case of the CPU overheating soon after power on.
  6. trag

    Solid State Drive for G3?

    Moot now, but if you have a VRAM module (may be called GRAM in Beige G3) it would be under the modem that is sticking sideways out of your sound card. Behind the voltage regulator and between the RAM and sound/personality card. Also moot, but another thought I had was perhaps the 12" monitor doesn't do 640 X 480? I think there was a small Apple monitor that was fixed at something lower like 512 X ?
  7. trag

    Killy clips

    I don't believe that they've been manufactured in many years. Your only hope is probably that someone is willing to part with one. I did a little searching several years ago, and could never find any kind of manufacturer and part number -- like a Molex or AMP type part number. Finding that might have lead to a unused box of them somewhere... However, it seems to me that something serviceable could be 3-D printed. Pin headers work well. We solder them to the 68K so they'll be secure. A plastic framework could be used to press the pin header against the 68K instead -- basically what a Killy Clip is. So, a skilled 3-D print designer might be able to layout something which will snap over the 68K processor and press a pair of header strips against the CPU pins, while allowing the other end of the header strip pins to exit through the top. If you don't want to do it yourself, you might start a new thread with a snappy title, like "3-D Print New Killy Clips?" or some such. See if you can get one of the printer geniuses interested.
  8. trag

    Revised homebrew Mac Plus ROM?

    Be aware that between 512 Kbits and 1 Mbits, the pinout of the EPROM/EEPROM/Flash chips changed. So you'll want to stick to chips of 512Kbits capacity or less.
  9. trag

    Solid State Drive for G3?

    Check your display device (monitor, LCD panel) and cable and any adapter. The ATI video card, if it is a Macintosh version, should produce video without any drivers. Drivers enable acceleration and sometimes additional resolutions, but any video card with Mac firmware should produce images at boot time, without loading disk based drivers. Hence, I suspect your display device, rather than the video card. Now if the video card was originally a PC card and was hacked with one of the "reduced" firmware packages to work on a Mac, then it might need drivers. Also, it is possible that the video card is in some weird state/configuration where it's trying to drive the display at an unsupported resolution. You may wish to zap the PRAM (hold down cmd-opt-p-r simultaneously) at power up/reboot. Finally, but maybe this should be first, if you have a VRAM module installed on the motherboard, check that it's installed properly, hasn't popped loose. Perhaps clean the contacts. Here's a lot of G3 guts for a decent price: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-Power-Macintosh-PowerPC-G3-Motherboard-G3-3978-820-0864-B-with-CPU-Ram/274012210067?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  10. trag

    Solid State Drive for G3?

    Are you sure that the plate it was mounted to isn't a 2.5" to 3.5" adapter? In other words, would the unit, as shipped to you, mount in a slot intended for a 3.5" drive? That's what I would expect.
  11. trag

    Mac Plus Flyback Compatibility

    It looks like a Classic flyback worked for the original poster in a Plus. The Plus and SE(/30) can use the same flybacks. By the transitive property of flyback transformers, you should probably preserve that puppy. Any discernible part numbers on the Classic AB's flyback?
  12. That makes theoretical sense. The driver built into the Plus ROM must know the address of the SCSI chip. I don't think Apple added the ability to support more than one SCSI host until SCSI Manager 4.3, so way back in the Plus's day, there was probably one hard coded address for where the SCSI chip was expected to be on the bus. Or maybe a pointer to a table, where the address could be stored. But in either case, only one address ultimately, for the SCSI bus. There is no way for a machine of the Plus's era to control/address more than one SCSI chip, absent a very substantial DA/extension. So your observation is exactly what I would expect in practice. Only one SCSI controller can be active at a time. I know that Newlife told me that their SCSI implementation was considerably faster than the Plus's, so it is likely the Gemini's is as well. I think the after market upgrades have the improvement in how SCSI is handled that the SE had. I can't remember what that was at the moment...
  13. trag

    Soft Power circuit and /PFW (Q950)

    Yes, silent audience. You're doing great. I'm making popcorn...
  14. trag

    IIcx with a nice surprise inside.

    The round heat sink next to the video connector is usually a sign that it's in the Radius Thunder IV family. Unless the daughter card was removed at some point, that one was probably sold as a Radius Thunder 24GT, which is the same card as the Radius Thunder IV 1152, but without the DSP daughter board. A very nice find.
  15. trag

    Solid State Drive for G3?

    I'm pretty sure OWC has just done the work of putting a PATA to SATA adapter together with either a conventional SSD or an mSATA drive installed in their case. If you want a turn-key solution, that's probably a good option. You can probably save a considerable amount by rolling your own. Looking more closely, you could save a bundle on the larger sizes (240GB and 480GB) but the 60GB and 120GB are only getting a $10 - $20 premium. And presumably, OWC has done the work of selecting a reliable PATA to SATA adapter for you, which is no small thing. The adapter/cables/case are about $15 - $40 worth of stuff. SATA SSDs are in this ballpark right now, according to Newegg: 128GB <$25 240GB <$35 480GB <$50 1TB <$100 There are a dizzying array of adapter choices available out there. It is simplified, somewhat, by all of them being based on one of the available adapter chips, and there are only a double handful of chips to choose from. Still, paying OWC a sawbuck to do that research for you is probably worth it. The last four items on this list will get you a 120GB SSD conversion for under $40 and they're all available from Newegg. Note, the adapter I listed is just an example, not a recommendation. OWC's 120GB solution is only $20 and comes pre-assembled with the adapter choice already made for you. Here are just a few of the types of adapters available: 2.5" PATA to mSATA SSD. This one has a Master/Slave jumper. Would require a 3.5" to 2.5" adapter as the PATA cabling for 3.5" and 2.5" drives is a little different and the Beige has cabling for 3.5". https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VQT5YW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_6X6IDbDCSMB2B Similar to above, but without the Master/Slave jumper. Also, about 2/5 the price. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773NJL3W/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_r46IDb4K1EHHQ Plain, vanilla PATA to SATA adapter with one nice twist. Plugs directly into the PATA interface on your motherboard and provides two SATA ports. This adapter takes care of the Master/Slave issue, unless what you wanted was one SATA device and one PATA device. This device provides two SATA ports. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001H3CW00/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_KY6IDbQN9CNX4 However, from the photo, this one seems to be based on the SPIF-223 chip, and this resource (reliability?) suggests that adapters based on that chip are problematical. https://msfn.org/board/topic/152483-sata-to-ide-adapters-whichwhatwhy/ This is an example of the most basic PATA to SATA adapter, which can also be used in SATA to PATA mode. $4 total, shipped. Combine with an inexpensive SSD and you're done for under $50. https://www.newegg.com/p/2BH-000B-00002?Description=PATA to SATA adapter&amp;cm_re=PATA_to_SATA_adapter-_-2BH-000B-00002-_-Product $25 120GB SSD that you can use with the previous $4 adapter. You might need some cables. https://www.newegg.com/kingston-q500-120gb/p/0ZK-01M8-00349 PATA to SATA Power connector adapter. $1.50 https://www.newegg.com/p/0ZF-003B-00031?Description=PATA to SATA adapter&amp;cm_re=PATA_to_SATA_adapter-_-0ZF-003B-00031-_-Product SATA cable (adapter to SSD) for $3.50 https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812422652?Description=SATA cable&amp;cm_re=SATA_cable-_-12-422-652-_-Product
  16. trag

    Dynamac Smokin!

    Nice work. It's always nice to read about this kind of project and rescue.
  17. trag

    Solid State Drive for G3?

    The Beige G3 has a Parallel ATA (PATA) interface. There were (are?) some SSDs made with PATA interfaces, but they tend to be expensive for what you get. I suggest you do one of two things. 1) Get a PATA to SATA adapter and buy a regular old SSD for the Beige G3. 2) Get a PATA to mSATA adapter and buy an mSATA drive for the Beige G3. The first solution is cheaper. The second is more physically compact. Compactness probably doesn't matter, because at worst you're putting a 2.5" drive plus adapter into a 3.5" drive space. Both solutions have the following potential issues. 1) Most adapters are fixed to Master. They do not have a jumper to switch between Master and Slave. So any second device on that PATA bus must be set to Slave. There are some models that are switchable and a very few that appear as Slaves. 2) My memory on this is hazy and someone else will probably chime in, but IIRC, the Beige G3 has issues with drives larger than 128GB on its built-in PATA busses. This isn't a problem for drives connected to a SCSI card, or for drives connected to a PCI PATA or SATA adapter. The Beige G3's PATA bus is only 16 MB/s. So, if you want faster performance from your SSD, you will need to install a PATA or SATA card with Macintosh firmware. However, if durability is your only concern, then it doesn't matter.
  18. I would recommend that you remove the logic board and gently scrub it with isopropyl alcohol. The leakage from the capacitors is corrosive and over long periods can destroy things. Even if you don't have time to replace the caps, wash the goo off. 91% alcohol is usually available at grocery stores, though higher percentage stuff is better.
  19. trag

    Mac SE and a Novy 68030

    U30 looks like it is for an oscillator. Perhaps the 68030 and the math coprocesser can be driven at different speeds? The clue that suggests that U30 is for an oscillator is the fact that none of the pins are populated, except for the corner pins. This is the footprint of a full metal can oscillator and not much else.
  20. Picked up a IIci from Ebay last week. From the internal picture I was pretty certain there was some sort of 68040 accelerator and a video card. Very similar to ExplodingLemur's find a couple of weeks ago. I could only see the top edge of the video card, but based on the chip arrangement I was guessing Radius or Apple variant of the Precision Color Pro. The card only says Precision Color, with no "Pro" listed, but it's a short card (~7") not a long card, so I think it's the Pro variant. But I'm not certain. I know, e.g., the E-Machines cards, the Futura series were the longer, 10"?, 11"?, but the Futura II series were all 7". I thought the Radius Precision Color vs. Precision Color Pro were the same way, but now I'm not so certain. Anyway, a few photos now that it's arrived. I was happy that the metal hard drive bracket was included. And the front reset switches. For some reason those seems to be missing from some of the offerings on Ebay. I don't know if you can see it, but there's definitely fuzz accumulation around the capacitors in the corner shown here. Sticky capacity goo holding dust bunnies. I need to remove the logic board, dispose of any old battery, remove the caps and clean the board. The seller said it boots up, so I hope that means the battery, if any, hasn't leaked yet.
  21. I took out the logic board this weekend. It contained an unexploded Maxell battery bomb. There was just a small patch of rust starting on the positive terminal of the battery. It had not spread to the battery holder terminals, yet.
  22. Well, if it was the same auction, it was a mess. The seller had two IIci systems listed, one starting at $69.99 and one starting at $99.99. Neither included an inside photo (before the weekend), but both had rear shots showing the slots and the seller said the first one doesn't boot, and the second one does. Also, the rear shot of #1 showed three closed slots with covers. The rear shot of #2 showed three open slots, two empty and one with card. I messaged the seller and asked for internal photos on Thursday or Friday. Didn't hear a peep out of him over the weekend. Auctions were ending, IIRC, Monday and Tuesday respectively. So, Monday I took a look at the auctions, and he had added internal photos to the auctions, but he never messaged me back to let me know he had. Looking at the Internal photos he had added, the photo for #1 showed a video card and a 68040 accelerator, but also showed two open slots without covers. The internal photo for #2 showed a IIci cache card installed, no cards, and three slots with covers in place. He got the internal photos backwards on the two auctions, and I noticed it with about 2 hours until completion of the first auction. I messaged him about that, told him that I was really bidding on that internal photo (his item description says what's in the photos is included) but that I thought he had the photos wrong. Then I won the auction for $124+, I think. Later I got a message from him agreeing he had the photos backwards and offering either a discount, or to cancel the sale. I asked for the cancellation, but offered him $124 + $30 for the machine #2, as $30 was the difference in the starting price for the two machines. He accepted that, and we did a quick best offer transaction. So, you see, even if I hadn't won that auction, you would likely have been sent a machine with just a IIci cache card inside. Getting the internal photos reversed was a recipe for all kinds of heartache and trouble later. After receiving it, the winner of machine #1 would have been quite upset at not getting what was in the internal picture. One choice for me was to just ignore the auction for #1 and bid on machine #2. By the time the buyer of #1 noticed the mix up, #2 would have been shipped, but that would have been a mess for the seller and buyer of #1. Probably would have actually turned out a bit cheaper though. Anyway, I sympathize and have been in the same position myself a number of times, but I think that if anyone but me had won that auction, there would have been much gnashing of teeth after delivery. I like and agree with the sentiment of always being a little happier when I'm outbid if it's by someone on these forums.
  23. If it's 8 pin, it's probably a tiny serial flash chip. Unfortunately, it could be SOP, MSOP, TSOP and probably a few others I don't know about, all with slightly different geometries. The good news is that there's usually (or was for older chips) an 8-pin DIP equivalent, which means (meant) one could just get a programmer with a ZIF DIP socket and use the software for the DIP version of the Serial Flash. Then one bought a DIP to SM adapter (plenty of those for under $10 on Ebay) and plugged it into the DIP socket on teh programmer. The disadvantage was that at those prices, the adapter didn't have a true socket, just pads, so one basically had to hold the chip down to the bare pads while using it. But for small volume uses, that works okay. The TL866 without zillions of adapters looks to be available for about $60. But before buying anything, I would research exactly what make and model of chip is being used on those modules and make sure you're getting a programmer and some adapter scheme that supports the package/chip that you need to read/program.
  24. What kind of flash chip is the card using? In what sort of package? The TL866 with 28 adapters can be had on Ebay for about $150. Probably one of the packages with fewer adapter would still have the one you need and cost a bit less. I haven't looked into the counterfeit situation though. In other words, I'm not sure that's a genuine product at that price.
  25. trag

    Picked up a Mac IIci with some accessories!

    I had a third party cache card for the IIci a couple of decades ago. I think it was made by Atto. I remember getting the software by emailing them and asking them to upload it to their BBS. I think I sold it when I picked up a refurbished 33MHz Turbo/040 from Daystar. I wonder if the Atto software will work with the Daystar card. I think I still have it around here somewhere.