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JDW

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About JDW

  • Birthday 02/25/1971

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  • Website URL
    http://retromaccast.ning.com/profile/JamesWages

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Aichi-ken, Japan
  • Interests
    Church, family, travel around Japan, Mac computing, graphic design, web design, photography, videography, Newton 2100 PDA, System 6 fun on an SE/30

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  1. Yes, I mention in the video and in the text description that my recommended capacitor for C214 is included in my Mouser Cart, which is also mentioned in the text description. That Cornell cap has the lowest ESR of the 3 caps which do not have the 1kHz audible beep problem at power-on, and it also beats the Illinois cap because the Cornell is rated for 105°C.
  2. Thank you for the low cost suggestion. I actually have one of these $500 temperature controlled desoldering stations already: http://www.goot.jp/en/suitori-rework/tp-200as/ I just never use it because I like the wick better. Perhaps the red rubber bulb is better than a motorized sucker.
  3. Thank you for your kind words and the suggestion about the solder sucker. Honestly, after many years of using cheap plastic mechanical pumps and even expensive all-metal electrical ones in the form of the soldering stations (all of which often get clogged and failed desolder at times), I found that a simple copper desoldering braid actually works best for me. I think It could be due to the fact I don’t squirt a lot of flux on the board but instead just use the flux added by my supplementary solder. As you see in my video, I add a small amount of fresh solder to the existing joint and then use the braid to desolder it. I do it that way because most people probably just have solder and a soldering iron and not other things like liquid flux. A copper braid is also very useful and important once the component has been desoldered because you will want to thoroughly clean off the pads before soldering in a replacement component. My aim when making these videos is to do it in a way that is easy enough for most people to feel confident about doing it themselves, rather than paying somebody else to do it for them. With that said, if someone already has a desoldering station or a pump and not a wick, then I would suggest they give that a try, although they probably will be more successful if they also buy some liquid flux to add to the board when they desolder.
  4. The problem for me would be the shipping, as I am located in Japan. I doubt they'd have all the caps I'd want for a particular recap like I can get at Mouser, so it really would be a single item purchase, and what a price that would be! Luckly, that part hasn't burned out in any of my 400k drives. I am curious why it burned out though. Maybe the motor wasn't turning and it passed too much current and blew? You don't want an expensive replacement to also burn out. It's a crying shame they don't seem to manufacture that size anymore. It's a useful low-profile size.
  5. Just uploaded my Apple Hard Disk 20SC recapping video, which also covers the 40SC, 80SC and 160SC since they all use the same SONY CR-43 PSU. Check the text description for a Mouser Cart and useful info. At the end, I do a boot test with a 2015 15" MBP.
  6. £4.79!! https://www.littlediode.com/components/2SB822P.html
  7. Since the 2SB822 isn’t sold on DigiKey or Mouser, I assume you extracted it from another drive?
  8. But did you also change out the capacitors? Those could use changing even if they were not the core problem.
  9. I am very sorry. I misread your previous post, and I don't have access to my PCB right now to verify my board's p/n. I know my board won't be different that yours though, so what you have (2SB822) is a very short (<4mm height) PNP transistor rated at 2A. Here's the datasheet: https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/70749/Rohm/2SB822/1 What you need is a 2A rated PNP that is very short like the original. I still think you should desolder your PNP and test it. From the board markings you know which legs are E, B, and C. If you test the PNP outside the circuit and find it is good, then it means something else is bad. But if you test and find the PNP is bad, then you can safely proceed to secure a replacement. The key is finding a 2A-rated PNP that is 3.6mm tall (most are much taller). I cannot find the original p/n on Mouser, unfortunately.
  10. I can only see Q107 from the top in your photo, but “Q” almost always refers to transistors, and your part number of “B882P“ seems to be the 2SB882P, which is a high power, 3A, NPN transistor. The modern part number equivalent fir such an NPN would be 2SD882. Download a data sheet for the D882 and make sure that E, C and B pins of the D882 line up with the markings on your board. UPDATE: I just had a look at my circuit board and can now see that particular transistor. it’s only 4 mm or so in height, so a D882 would only work if you were to bend the pins 90° and lay it down on its back. Even then, I’m not sure if there’s enough space for it. To test your existing transistor, though, you should desolder it, put it on a breadboard, use a 1k-ohm Base resistor tied to 5v, tie the Emitter to ground, and then tie the Collector to the ground side of an LED, and then tie the positive side of the LED to a 330-ohm (or so) resistor, and the other side to 5 V. When you put 5V on the base resistor, the transistor should switch, if it’s good, and light the LED. And when you disconnect the base resistor, the LED should turn off.
  11. JDW

    SE/30 Power Supply: Recap or ATX?

    I look forward to your forthcoming posts! And truly, once its posted (assuming no more data loss in this forum from hard drive crashes) it serves as a great information resource for others. That's really my own drive to video what I do and put it up on YouTube. I often wish somebody else had made such a video, but since there aren't any (or at least, not of high quality and adequate detail) I make my own. Admittedly, it takes a LOT of time to do that, however. But another reason I do it is because I've become terribly forgetful in recent years and having a video not only helps others but reminds me very clearly what I did in the past. Anyway, thanks for all your contributions to this forum!
  12. JDW

    SE/30 Power Supply: Recap or ATX?

    Thanks for providing your capacitor list in Excel format. In all the years I've been on vintage Mac forums, I've read more first-hand reports (as well as an abundance of rumor and speculation too) of Astec failures than SONY PSU failures, and it was based on that I put forth my own words on which PSU may be more reliable or less reliable. Some of the wild speculation probably assumes SONY to be better due to the brand recognition over Astec, which of course is only speculation and shouldn't be used to make any final determination. Unfortunately, due to all the drive crashes and data loss in this forum through the years, I cannot point you to specific first-hand reports (which I know I have read in the past in this very forum, among others), which say the owner of the said Astec had a failure whereas none of the SONY PSUs in their possession had failed. I've also read that some Astecs were not repaired even after recaps, but I've not read so many reports of that with the SONY PSU. What can I say from my own personal experience? Well, I don't have that many SE or SE/30 power supplies to make a meaningful data pool. I only know that my SONY was dropping voltage due to faulty caps, as evidenced by the fact that after recap, it started working fine again. I also have an Astec, but I've not recapped that because instead of recapping that I bought a SEASONIC. And thank your for sharing details of your experience with the SEASONIC, as you were one of the individuals who inspired me to do my own SEASONIC mod. All said, I think if one has a stock SE/30 without a lot of upgrades bogging down the PSU, a recapped stock PSU should suffice, assuming it has no problems outside the caps. And the reason I say that is because it runs without a dedicated PSU fan. The SEASONIC is great when you need more power, but the fan inside can be heard, especially if you have a rather quiet analog board fan and no spinning platter hard drives. And even though the fan in the SEASONIC is activated by temperature, once the SE/30 has been on for even just a few minutes, the SEASONIC fan tends to come on and stay on in my experience. The fan isn't too obnoxious, but I wish to mention it since most people who know the stock fanless PSUs may be a tad surprised by the fan noise (however minor) in the SEASONIC.
  13. JDW

    SE/30 Power Supply: Recap or ATX?

    As I said in my SONY PSU recapping video on YouTube, I don't recommend wasting time recapping the ASTEC since the failure rates of those have historically been higher than the SONY PSUs. As such, I personally think you would be better served with either a recapped SONY PSU (they do crop up on EBAY, not recapped), or just go with the SEASONIC. I would say the amount of work required to recap a SONY PSU probably is about the same as the SEASONIC mod, and you can see my SEASONIC video on YouTube about that. The added benefits of the SEASONIC is more power and all new components. The benefit of the stock PSUs are no added fan noise.
  14. Here's my 400k floppy drive replacement capacitor list which I ordered recently: Big PCB: 3pcs of 47uF 16V, D=6.5mm, H=8mm, Lead Spacing=2.5mm (Mouser: UTT1C470MDD1TP) 2pcs of 22uF 16V, D=5.1mm, H=8mm, Lead Spacing=2.5mm (Mouser: UPW1C220MDD6) Small PCB: 2pcs of 10uf 16v, D=4.2mm, H=7mm, Lead Spacing=2mm (Mouser: UTT1C100MDD1TP) 3pcs of 10uf 35v, D=5.15mm, H=6.2mm, Lead Spacing=2mm (Mouser: UMV1V100MFD1TP) 1pc of 0.47uF 50V (could be 16V), D=4.2mm, H=6.2mm, Lead Spacing=2mm (Mouser: USV1HR47MFD) 1pc of 0.22uF 50V (could be 16V), D=4.2mm, H=5.8mm, Lead Spacing=2mm (Mouser: UMV1HR22MFD) 1pc of 1uF 50V, D=4.2mm, H=7.5mm, Lead Spacing=2mm (Mouser: UTT1H010MDD) Of course, I ordered those caps along with many other caps so I could avoid paying the shipping fee.
  15. Even if the quality is the best man ever created the fact remains that luid-filled caps do not have eternal life. Even if one argues they can last 50 years, 50 years is not forever. And then the question becomes, how how must the ESR get during those 50 years before your device stops working properly? Leaking onto a PCB and eating through traces is not the lone issue. Liquid electrolyte can dry up over time, especially when a heat source is present, and that remains true even if nothing at all every "leaked" from the capacitor in any externally observable way. As the electrolyte dries up, ESR rises and the capacitor slowly ceases to be a capacitor. Physically larger capacitors tend to retain more of their capacitance through the years than smaller caps, but not always. (For example, in my SE/30's SONY PSU, I removed the largest cap on the board and found ring-around-the-collar -- an indication that it had leaked.) In the case of physically large caps, I would agree that "quality" has importance. But this thread is talking about 400k floppy drives which have physically small caps, hence the point I've been trying to make about the high likelihood that these caps, especially after 30+ years of either being used or sitting in a closet, are diminished to such an extent that all manner of electrical glitches could occur due to their diminished ability to retain a charge within the tolerance of their original specifications. In any case, I will make a video of my 400k floppy drive recap jobs and post a link to that when finished. Hopefully, it will be of help to those considering a recap of those devices, which is pretty much everyone since I've never heard of people recapping those floppy drives before. We tend to recap what everybody else is recapping even though most of these fluid filled caps could now use recapping.
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