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JDW

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About JDW

  • Birthday 02/25/1971

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  • Website URL
    http://retromaccast.ning.com/profile/JamesWages

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Aichi-ken, Japan
  • Interests
    Church, family, travel around Japan, Mac computing, graphic design, web design, photography, videography, Newton 2100 PDA, System 6 fun on an SE/30

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  1. JDW

    SE/30 PDS Adapter Epic Blunder

    @joethezombie Thank you for the suggestion! The caps are all on the back of the DayStar 040 accelerator card as shown in this photo... I first measured voltage across each capacitor to ensure there was no voltage (caps were indeed discharged) and then performed a Continuity check across each of the tantalum capacitors using my Fluke 8845A benchtop meter. There were no shorts across any of the tantalum caps, which are the big black components in the photo above (light gray stripe marking the Positive side). I then used my DER EE DE-5000 LCR meter to measure Capacitance and ESR, but the capacitance reading clearly shows that the caps are connected together at unknown points (I don't have a schematic) along with some of the tiny ceramic caps too, no doubt: When measuring across either of the tantalum caps marked 10-16V (C46 & C28): 27uF, ESR=38Ω(@120Hz) When measuring across any of the 4 tantalum caps marked 4.7-25 (C11, C29, C32, C49): 41uF, ESR=9Ω(@120Hz)
  2. JDW

    SE/30 PDS Adapter Epic Blunder

    Von, I appreciate the moral support. Thank you. It's a little bit comforting to discover that you are not the sole member of the E.B. Club. Even so, here sit my two poor boards. Now that I ponder the TS adapter, it would make a lot more sense if it had been designed with PTC fuses on the key power lines that would potentially short when a board is inserted incorrectly. PTC fuses are no guarantee being failure-free after a wrong connection blunder since all fuses take a number of milliseconds to blow, but the presence of such fuses would probably surely be better than the situation now where your poor card has zero chance of life after a bad connection. My problem now is that I really can't test the chips like the CPU because my vintage Macs center around SE/30s and Mac 512s. I don't have a board in which to test the 040 CPU. Thankfully, I do have a backup ROM chip for the 040 accelerator (an older version ROM burned to a separate chip) and that ROM chip is the only chip other than the CPU that is also socketed. I have that older ROM because I paid Manabu Sakai of ARTMIX about $60 in the past to get an up-to-date ROM. I've not tested my backup ROM yet because it would be unwise to do so without knowing precisely where the problem points are on the Daystar card. Based on what Bolle said, I am led to assume the problem is the Daystar card and maybe not the TS Adapter. I wish I had another Daystar card to test in the TS Adapter, but I don't. I bought the TS Adapter solely to make the Daystar card usable in the SE/30. All said, the TS Adapter is worth $200 (or was back when I bought it, but ARTMIX charges $249 for them now), and the Daystar card is worth at least $300 (I forgot what I paid for it, but it was more than $300, I know), plus the $60 ROM upgrade for it. So with $560 worth (at least) of boards and parts here, you can see why I've not been able to sleep well. I am not kidding. I dreamt about those boards all last night. It's a real life nightmare. I'm just trying to decide what to do at this point. I could just closet the boards, but that's the same as closeting $560 in cash. I would much rather find a way to resurrect the boards if possible. Again, no traces were burned and nothing was visually fried that I can see with my closeup lenses. It's probably just a chip or two. I just need a means of troubleshooting the card so as to determine which parts need to be replaced to get the kit working again.
  3. JDW

    SE/30 PDS Adapter Epic Blunder

    Thank you for your detailed analysis and advice, Bolle! Although the 68040 chip on the Daystar accelerator is socketed, I unfortunately don't have a 68040 Mac or another 68040 accelerator card in which I can test it. I'm hating life at the moment.
  4. Friends, my heart is in the depths of despair at the moment. I was swapping multiple PDS cards in and out of my SE/30 today at a rapid pace and made an epic blunder. I say "epic" because in all my years of using these Macs I've never done something so thoughtless and stupid. I have a TwinSpark TS Adapter (click for photos) from ARTMIX Japan which allows use of various accelerators in the SE/30. My epic blunder was that I accidentally inserted my 40MHz 68040 Daystar Accelerator card into the "PDS" passthrough connector at the top of the TS Adapter, rather than insert it into the "Cache" connect on the side of the adapter. When I switched power ON the switching power supply (SEASONIC) started to bring up power but then immediately shut everything down. The screen didn't even partially come on, the shutdown was so quick, and even the SE/30's fan jiggled a tad but didn't spin. It was at that point I realized my stupidity. Wrong Connector!!! I switched off the power. I then removed the adapter and accelerator and switched power on, but nothing. I then waited 5 minutes and tried again (nothing in the PDS slot) and then the SE/30 made a bong and booted, to me great relief. So I guess there is a PTC or similar fuse inside the PSU that takes time to cool down. The SE/30 now boots fine and recognizes my MacCon Ethernet PDS card and DiiMO PDS accelerator, but when I put the TS adapter & Daystar accelerator (this time properly inserted into the Cache slot on the adapter), I get the chimes of death and horizontal lines. Removing those 2 boards makes the Mac happy again. So either the TS Adapter is now bad or accelerator or both. I feel like a complete idiot. There was no smoke or bad smells. Nothing is noticeably burned on the TS Adapter or Daystar card and I did a very detailed visual inspection with a closeup lens. The TS Adapter does have a socketed GAL16V8D chip, so I am curious if that chip could now be bad, the mere replacing of which would resurrect the board into working condition again. I don't have a spare GAL to check, however. All said, those of you who have an adapter (TwinSpark or similar PDS adapter card) and compatible accelerator, have you ever accidentally connected your accelerator into the PDS slot at top instead of properly connecting it into the Cache slot? Probably not, but I wanted to throw the question out there to find out. Perhaps someone else has gone through this pain and subsequent troubleshooting before. Any troubleshooting suggestions you kind souls could kindly share would be greatly appreciated. (I feel absolutely awful.)
  5. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    Here's my video on SE/30 (and SE) power supply replacement: Special thanks to @joethezombie and also to @superjer2000 and @Von and all other contributors to this thread! Without you, I would still be procrastinating that important task!
  6. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    Yes, the Silenx IXP-34-16 is the fan I currently use: I talked a lot about in the past, but sadly many of those posts were deleted when the forum’s hard drives crashed. Specs are one thing, but putting your hand close to the fan as air moves through it is yet another. Based on the airflow detected by my hand, it feels that the stock Elina fan moves more air than my Silenx. I would therefore encourage you to do some before/after tests to see which one you physically “feel“ moves more air.
  7. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    Crutch, is this your replacement fan? http://nanoxia-world.com/en/products/fans/deep-silence/240/deep-silence-60-mm-2000-u/min I use a SILENX in one of my SE/30's and am curious how loud your fan is in comparison to the stock ELINA fan (which is quite loud but moves a lot of air). It's taken me a lot longer than I though to finish my video on the SEASONIC upgrade. Things keep coming up delaying the video, and then I decided to recap my analog board and run voltage measurements with that. But the video is now coming to a close, so I intend to upload it this week and post the link here.
  8. JDW

    Micron Xceed Grayscale Adapter recap

    No replies yet. I know I am not the only member of this forum who has an Xceed Grayscale setup on their SE/30, but I guess I need to prod you folks a bit more... Here's a Mouser list of all the 10,000-hour radial 100uF 63V Aluminum Electrolytic caps (C9 replacement candidates), and note that one of them has a low ESR of 170m-ohm. If that ESR is not considered "too low" for the board design, then it's obviously the best replacement cap to get. And that is why I posted here originally, to see if any of you would be able to at least intelligently speculate on that. Mouser also has an Organic Polymer 100uF 63V version with an even lower 32m-ohm ESR (@100kHz). It's rated at 2000 hours but at 125°C, which means the life in hours is far longer than 10,000 hours at 105°C. The main caveat (assuming ESR isn't one) is that it's more expensive. So is there a lower limit to ESR for the grayscale board circuit to be stable in terms of the radial electrolytic capacitors used? That's my primary question. For your reference, a schematic of the grayscale "sweep board" is shown on "Sheet 4 of 5" (FIG. 4) in the Micron patent. And a text description of the FIG.4 schematic is given in columns 4 & 5 of that same patent.
  9. JDW

    SCSI Voodoo HowTo

    My humble thanks to Trag and joethezombie for sharing such helpful information. Just as I began writing this reply, I decided to spend an hour looking through my box of old vintage Mac "small parts" and sure enough I find an old 10-pin SIP that I remember removing from one of my Quantum drives many years ago. A photo of that 10-pin SIP is below. I believe the reason I don't still have the second SIP is because when I removed it, it broke apart, so I probably disposed of it. The printing on the SIP is "T10-1-111F 420." I took my DMM and measured voltage between the leftmost (pin1) and the rightmost pin found it to be 110-ohms. I got the same reading between pin-1 and the other pins. And between any two pins (excluding pin 1) I get 220-ohms. So this confirms what joethezombie said, and confirms what Trag said about the BOURNS 4610X-101-111LF being the correct replacement 10-pin SIP (and remember that you'll need two of them. I also found an old Apple branded 160MB Quantum drive that looks exactly the same as the photo I posted previously of my 540S, and it too is missing it's SIP terminator pair. The same kind of SIP would most likely work perfectly in it as well. By the way, I have an Apple HD20SC zero-footprint drive enclosure with a SCSI HDD inside that is terminated via jumper. When I connect my SE/30 (which has my unterminated Quantum LPS 540S inside) to that HD20SC, even if the power is OFF on the HD20SC, the SE/30's internal Quantum drive will boot. So the termination on the external drive allows the internet drive to function properly. I still want to terminate the internal drive though so I can use the machine with that drive even when it's not connected to the HD20SC. Thanks again and hope this discussion helps others who have the same problem!
  10. JDW

    SCSI Voodoo HowTo

    Trag, Doing a continuity check with my Fluke 8845A benchtop meter yields no continuity at all between the leftmost and rightmost pins of RP1 and RP2 (see my photo above). The same is true when checking continuity between all the other pins of RP1 and RP2. Checking resistance using my Fluke between the leftmost and rightmost pins of RP1 shows 11k-ohm. Probing between the leftmost pin and all other pins of RP1, except for the rightmost pins also yields 11k-ohm. Measuring between the rightmost pin of RP1 and all other pins, except the leftmost pin, shows 9k-ohms. I then repeated for RP2 and got the same resistance measurements. I also took voltage measurements using my Fluke. I get +2.78V with my (+)RED probe on RP1's leftmost pin (see my photo above), which is silkscreened with a square and has an arrow pointing at it (I guess that is "pin-1"), and my (-)GND probe was on the rightmost pin which has "U12" silkscreened above it. I then repeated the voltage measurement for RP2 and got the same voltage of +2.78V. When putting my (-)GND probe on the black wire from the power connector (just a different ground), I get +2.84V. Putting my (-)GND probe on the leftmost pin and (+)RED probe on the rightmost pin yields -2.78V for RP1 and RP1, which confirms that the leftmost pin is indeed POSITIVE. Even so, this voltage is not the 5V you mentioned it should be. For your reference, voltage measured at the floppy connector measures 4.8V with my SEASONIC PSU inside. My motherboard is recapped but the analog board is not. Any further thoughts you may have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  11. JDW

    SCSI Voodoo HowTo

    Thank you for your reply. Unfortunately I found this, which complicates things: But my my Quantum drive is LPS, so I’m not sure if it’s a single resister set as shown above or the dual resistor set.
  12. JDW

    SCSI Voodoo HowTo

    trag, I have a Quantum LPS 540S SCSI drive that's missing its two 10-pin-each terminator SIPs at RP1 and RP2 (see photo below). I went through the links in your earlier post and found the BOURNS 4610X-104-221/331L at Mouser. Can you confirm if that is indeed the correct part number for use in my particular Quantum drive? Thanks.
  13. I have a functional Xceed grayscale adapter that looks exactly like joethezombie's photo. There are 4 electrolytic radial capacitors that are old enough to warrant replacing, especially so since they are only temperature rated up to 85°C: C4: 10uF, 16V C5: 47uF, 10V C8: 100uF, 16V C9: 100uF, 63V There are numerous 10,000-hour 105°C rated replacements available on Mouser. Have any of you grayscale adapter owners performed a recap on your adapter? And more specifically, do any of you understand the function of the adapter well enough to know if replacement caps with significantly lower ESR (than the stock caps) would actually create problems? Thanks.
  14. So long as we can all find an easy way to get our ROMs updated and give it a try, I'm all for it! Also, what amount of VRAM is required? As you can see on my board I have only 2 of the 8 VRAM slots filled. I would assume that my board could support monochrome or perhaps grayscale whereas a full set of VRAM chips would be required for color? In any case, where would we find these?
  15. Thanks for the confirmation! I'm prepping to go on a recapping frenzy, doing three SE/30 analog boards and a couple SONY PSUs (even though my SEASONIC PSU swap was a success -- I'm putting the finishing touches on a video I made about that now, actually). Here's my Mouser Cart (choose English if it displays in Japanese -- I'm in Japan). I'm also planning a recap of my DiiMO 50MHz 68030 accelerator, which has 5pcs of 22uf 6.3V aluminum electrolytics that are over 20 years old. I'm considering using a 10V 22uF Niobium Oxide cap, which is a solid material like tantalum (i.e., it will never leak even 25 years hence) and it won't burn due to over-voltage like a tantalum and it won't fail shorted either. The body is small enough to fit easily onto the existing PCB pads too. Anyway, thanks!
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