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JDW

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About JDW

  • Birthday 02/25/1971

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  • Website URL
    http://retromaccast.ning.com/profile/JamesWages

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Aichi-ken, Japan
  • Interests
    Church, family, travel around Japan, Mac computing, graphic design, web design, photography, videography, Newton 2100 PDA, System 6 fun on an SE/30

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  1. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    No, I don't have a reliable means to measure temperature of my Seasonic. I can only convey how hot it is to the touch. In all my use cases to date, I have placed the Seasonic as shown in my photo, with the vent side facing strait up, and I put my hand on that side to determine how hot it gets. When you check your Seasonic's fan, check to see if it cycles ON for 8 seconds then OFF for 8 seconds like mine does. I should also mention that when my Seasonic's fan comes on, it's so quiet I cannot hear it when my ear is about 50cm away. My room is not dead silent, so perhaps that masks the sound. But normally if a fan is loud I can hear it above ambient room noise. So while my testing has confirmed the fan does come on, I have not determined if it varies its rotational speed and therefore the noise level.
  2. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    I connected my Seasonic PSU to a single spinning platter HDD for 1 hour and the HDD was spinning for that entire 1 hour. The PSU fan never came on, and it was just as hot to the touch after 1 hour as my previous no-Load test. Again, I am not surprised the fan did not turn on because the Seasonic makes it clear that it won't turn on if the Load is 30% or less of its output capacity. Again, this seems to prove there is no temperature sensor or temperature activated fan control in the Seasonic PSU. UPDATE: Hmmm. Maybe it does have a temperature sensor after all. It's pretty hot here in Japan, so I decided to switch off the A/C for a while and then watch the fan. Sure enough, the fan started spinning. It spins 8 seconds ON, then 8 seconds OFF, and then that cycle repeats. The PSU is still quite warm to the touch, even with only that HDD spinning, but at least I now know the fan is working and it seems to be temperature controlled.
  3. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    Yes, but not everyone will chose to run an internal HDD within their SE/30. For example, I have my SE/30's HDD in an external Apple HDD enclosure that sits under the SE/30. So what happens if you run your SE/30 with the HDD disconnected? My guess is the total load would fall to such a level the internal fan of the PSU wouldn't spin, and that would heat the PSU. Also, with your setup the way it is now (with your HDD still connected), does the PSU fan spin? The real issue here though is how you chose to install your PSU. You removed the stock chassis and put the PCB guts inside your SE/30's PSU chassis. However, Von chose to keep his Seasonic PSU chassis intact and used wire-ties to mount that entire Seasonic unit inside the SE/30 PSU chassis. If one does as Von did, the fan would be more important seeing there is less air flow around the power supply PCB if that fan isn't running. But in your case, you removed the Seasonic chassis and remounted the fan, so even if the fan doesn't spin in your case, there is still more open air around the PSU PCB in your case, thereby (in theory) keeping in cooler. So I would think that whether the fan spins or not could be an issue, depending on how one chooses to mount the Seasonic -- as is with metal chassis, or like you did by removing the PCB and not using the chassis.
  4. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    I left the Seasonic SSP-250SUB PSU connected to AC power with the Green wire Grounded and NO LOAD (because I am merely checking voltages at this stage). After 1 hour I came back and it was very hot to the touch. Not too hot to keep my hand on it, but uncomfortably hot. The fan was not spinning, and no surprise because it says the fan won't spin if the load is very low (which is NO LOAD in my test case). So it would seem the fan isn't temperature controlled, so if you leave it in a NO LOAD or very small Load situation, its internal fan will never turn on and it will get quite hot. This is something to ponder when using it inside an SE/30.
  5. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    By metering the output wires of my Seasonic SSP-250SUB PSU, I see the following: Yellow wires are all +12V, although which rail I do not know. Orange wires are all +3.3V Red wires are all +5V Purple wire is +5V (Vsb?) Gray wire is +5V (also Vsb?) Blue wire is -12V (negative with respect to Ground) Black wires are all (-) Ground. Green wire must be shorted to (-) Ground for the PSU to operate.
  6. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    Newegg won't ship to me in Japan, so I had to buy from EBAY: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Seasonic-SSP-250SUB-250W-80-PLUS-Bronze-Flex-ATX-Power-Supply-w-Active-PFC-F0/322465486196 With shipping to Japan I paid $80. I would have rather had 2 units, but at that price I settled with one.
  7. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    Consider the multitude of red wires coming from that harness. How do you know which red wire is which in terms of ISOLATION? Consider the I/O description: Which wire corresponds to +12V1 versus +12V2, which I assume made distinct in the above chart because they are isolated. The same is true of +5V and +5Vsb in the above.
  8. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    As per the post by joethezombie, I can confirm that you get no output voltage on any wire of the Seasonic SSP-250SUB PSU until you connect the GREEN wire to GROUND (connect GREEN to any BLACK wire). I of course can measure the voltages of each of the wires in the PSU's wire harness to know their voltage level, but I still would like to know what the output schematic is. I want to see which voltage output is isolated, and so on. Do any of you have that info? I can't find it by Googling it. But maybe some of you have found something I've overlooked. Thanks.
  9. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    My Seasonic SSP-250SUB PSU arrived today with absolutely no documentation. Does anyone have a link to a wiring diagram of the 26-pin Molex connector? I'm trying to figure out which wire is what.
  10. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    If you meant to say "-11.98v" then, yes, that would be close enough. Thank you for the excellent photos and explanation. I'm about to pull the trigger and buy two of those SEASONIC PSU's myself.
  11. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    As I said in my earlier post, the Seasonic documentation says it can run fanless if the LOAD is 30% of max. You gentlemen who use the SEASONIC, can you please confirm this in your SE/30 use cases? Please explain how that feature works. Does the fan simply not spin at all when the actual LOAD is only 30% or less than a 100% LOAD? Or must you connect a wire to get that feature to work? How does it work? Thanks.
  12. JDW

    Capacitor list for SE/30 analog board

    Even though that data is taken from manufacturer testing, the manufacturer has a way to compute longevity from that data, as I described in my previous post. It's just that I cannot find anything online that tells us precisely how Nichicon and Vishay compute longevity for the caps we are talking about. But manufacturers of other electrolytic capacitors do post such information in datasheets, and in many cases it is a "10x multiplier of hours" for every 20°C drop in operating temperature, which is why I use that as a good rule of thumb. The film caps in my Mouser list with the narrowest Lead Spacing is the film cap you choose, which is 12.5mm instead of the needed 8mm. But as you said, if you bend the leads they will reach to fit the narrower spacing.
  13. JDW

    Capacitor list for SE/30 analog board

    When choosing fluid-filled electrolytic capacitors, it's not a matter of our vintage Macs running constantly at a toasty 85°C. It's all about how to chose a replacement cap so it will have a long life. Most likely our compact Macs will run at 40°C or so inside, even with the fan, and especially so on hot days. Depending on the ambient temperature of your room and whether there's a spinning platter HDD inside, the inside might even reach 50°C and even hotter if outside sunlight hits the housing for a long time. Of course, the inside won't hit 85°C unless something is seriously wrong; but again, we are not picking replacement electrolytic caps based on our "expected operating temperature." The temp spec of these caps combined with the hour spec tells us something about how long that cap will last (in terms of years) when used at significantly lower temperatures. For example, a cap spec'd at "2000h@85°C" will have a shorter life when used at 40°C than a cap spec'd at "2000h@105°C" when also used at 40°C. Indeed, the cap longevity difference in terms of "hours" can and often is on order of 10x different. Not all manufactures make this clear though. Some will say, "multiple the specified Hours by 10 for every 20°C drop in operating temperature, with the total capacitor life not to exceed 20 years." I can't find that info for these Nichicons and Vishays we're talking about, but if that holds true for them, we would have 2000h x 10 = 20,000h@"spec-temp minus 20°C" and 20,000h x 10 = 200,000h@"spec-temp minus 40°C" and so on. Divide the hours by 24 to get days, then divide that result by 365 to get years, and remember that these caps won't function properly beyond 20 years. Below is a list of film caps at Mouser, which include the Panasonic cap you selected, all PP and rated at the same 3.9uF capacitance, 5% tolerance, and 105°C rating. Lead spacing varies by part and I haven't opened my SE/30 to see what the lead spacing should be, but perhaps you would know? https://www.mouser.jp/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Film-Capacitors/_/N-9x371?P=1z0wpzmZ1z0z7l5Z1z0x6frZ1yzs9nvZ1z0vhz5Z1yznbzs
  14. JDW

    Capacitor list for SE/30 analog board

    Looks good, except perhaps for the 2 axial caps. Those are the only 2 in your list of replacement Nichicons that have a 2000h@85°C rating. All the radial caps have a 105°C rating, and rated at many more hours too. Vishay is more expensive but is perhaps a better alternative for the axials. Compare specs: Nichicon 22uF 50V +/-20% axial, 2000h@85°C: https://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=262440786&uq=636633304796196373 Vishay 22uF 50V +/-20% axial, 2000h@105°C https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/vishay-bc-components/MAL213831229E3/4237PHCT-ND/263350 and Nichicon 33uF 25V +/-20% axial, 2000h@85°C: https://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=262446953&uq=636633364314617855 Vishay 50V +/-20% axial, 2000h@105°C (sadly Digikey doesn't have this p/n, but Mouser does): https://www.mouser.jp/ProductDetail/Vishay-Sprague/30D336M050CB2A?qs=%2fha2pyFadui9Y6APtT5pVVUD0UrcKfUoYxrZNQfMzjq%2fWw0d7nWWm6O0oSh4AGdP
  15. JDW

    Modern PSU for the SE/30

    Well, I finally found the Seasonic SSP-250SUB PSU on EBAY, and thankfully they ship to Japan and will combine shipping for multiple units. That Seasonic PSU also seems to have a Fanless Mode. Is there a switch on it to set the mode, or does it just shut-off the fan when at 30% or less of maximum load?
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