RIFA cap replacement for Mac Classic analog board

[Bagpuss]

I've had a look around but I haven't been able to find a conclusive answer. I have a couple of Mac Classic analog boards, one of the older version (820-0395) and one of the newer (820-0525). They both contain a set of two RIFA PME 290 MB caps, and on the newer board they are cracking at the top. I am about to recap this board and I might as well get some replacements for the RIFAs.

There appears to be a direct replacement from RIFA, the PME 271 Y, but this is difficult/expensive for me to get hold of (I am in the Netherlands). I came across B32021A3103M from EPCOS/TDK, which is a 10nF 300V Y2 (image attached is of a box I found on the internet, I haven't ordered 100 of them!) I don't know a lot about safety capacitors but I am assuming that it being rated at a higher voltage wouldn't matter? Also unfortunately these caps are 10mm spaced and not 15mm like the current caps, but I could just bend the leads to make them fit.

Alternatively do you know of another part that I could use?

Thanks!

 

[Nixontheknight]

Replace the X caps with X2 rated ones, and the Y caps with Y2 rated ones

 

[bibilit]

Caps are most of the time cracked on the Classic AB, neved have the issue present on other models, i leave them alone...

 

[nyef]

There's a line of argument that I've heard a time or two that RIFA caps are entirely to prevent noise from moving from the hardware into the building power lines, and are therefore entirely optional. That is, you can remove them without replacement and not have any problems. I don't know how much credence I give to this argument.

Also, if a RIFA cap lets go, it's obnoxiously odorous, and the mechanism for them letting go is moisture getting in through the cracked casing.

 

[Bagpuss]

Caps are most of the time cracked on the Classic AB, neved have the issue present on other models, i leave them alone...

Yes I think the RIFA caps just crack with lots of use. In my other board, which has clearly been used very little in comparison (it had barely any soot and dust) they are still looking fine. But while these white RIFAs don't seem to let go in the same way as the older yellow ones, I still think it might be worth replacing.

There's a line of argument that I've heard a time or two that RIFA caps are entirely to prevent noise from moving from the hardware into the building power lines, and are therefore entirely optional. That is, you can remove them without replacement and not have any problems. I don't know how much credence I give to this argument.

Also, if a RIFA cap lets go, it's obnoxiously odorous, and the mechanism for them letting go is moisture getting in through the cracked casing.

I have considered just removing them instead of dealing with the fallout if they do let go, but they are there for a reason and it just feels right to replace them

I assume B32021A3103M will work fine, given that it is listed as 300V 10nF Y2 which is very close to the original RIFA. It will just orobably take a bit of careful bending of the leads to make them fit in the 15mm spacing. Y caps are quite difficult to find compared to X1 and X2 caps, for some reason.