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Sweet:) nice to travel by train!

Also interested.. but understand if he doesn’t

Yeah i can imagine that would be an issue. I used the color classic flyback on the 575 board so wasn’t a problem. Thats what the website said to use.

Also hooked up two speakers and put my color classic ii board in it and now shows stereo sound and has thousands of colors compared to the 256 on original color classic logic board. So going to leave my color classic original and put my color classic ii board in the modified unit now.

No, the lc 575 analog had to be cut down pretty good, even to get case back on. The chassis has to be cut down too. After it was all done and working i had to adjust a few of the pots on back of analog boards to get screen looking good and right size but nothing else besides brightness control...

Yes my 9500 and 8500 psu work on an 8100 board and even my 840av. The extra molex connection just isnt used. So yeah, an 8100 psu wont work on a 9500/8500 because it isnt powerful enough and doenst have the extra molex connector

Awesome, nice little machines! Should probably recap analog and psu as well.

So locally this came up. It is an original 128k that was supposedly upgraded to a 512k. It has original logic and analog. I replaced rifa and reflowed all the bad solder joints. It also came with some nice accessories and original power cord. Was even the original owner. Too bad no original box etc.

So i had a friend who had spare lc 575 analog boards. We tried everything to get his original color classic board working but nope, just didn’t want to play nice. So we did the Japanese mod and converted the lc 575 to work in a color classic. Also, the color classic is now booting natively into...

Ok, so something can be so simple to fix lol.. i had recapped this powerbook 100 and was having the issue with brightness not working. Read above. Anyways, got yet another powerbook 100 on the weekend and its hard drive worked. I put it in the other one i have and brightness now works. The other...

Looks like isopropyl got into the display or something. Had something similar happen on a powerbook 100 myself but not to that extent

What causes the red to bleed off edges?

So i reflowed the analog and checked over the board again. I am not sure if i did this but the screen has a red tinge now. Screen still flickers lol.. so not really winning at this point.

Not sure if it did, will ask. All is recapped. Logic and analog board

Ok, sounds good.

A friend bought a color classic ii and recapped it. It works but display isnt steady not stable. Any ideas where to look!

As far as my experience goes with these pb100’s is that they are all electrolytics and all leak. I have had to clean all pads and holes on various machines. I have had beef’s in the past with console 5 over stuff like this.

As with most vintage macs and a lot of pc’s etc recapping is only part of the restoration process. You might also need to remove other components to clean leaked cap juice. This also means to clean pads and legs and check for broken traces and rotten vias. It can be quite a process...

I use all organic polymer caps now (mouser or digikey) tantalums are ok too. Just dont use crappy caps. Also clean pads well and ise isopropyl 91-99% to clean up the whole area around caps if there is a lot of cap leakage

Had a 3400c that was never able to recover from battery leak and it wasnt even bad. Really unfortunate but thats the way these are. Something in that area is potentially damaged or not functioning. Hard to know. If external output worked it would be at least positive and something to keep...