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You're missing the HD20 Startup Disk. Search for HD20 Init and you'll find what you need. Boot from that floppy which will have the necessary driver to use the HD20/Tash20.

I wouldn't put a knife or sidecutters anywhere near a soic. To much chance of slipping and cutting traces. Chip quick or hot air... I'd suggest buy a cheap hot air station as they are very useful for hobby electronics.

Erm don't just reflow - use some epoxy to glue it back down (ideally heat resistant epoxy but in a pinch if you are quick with the iron, any will do). Then use some conformal coating around the edges to give it a bit more mechanical protection. Only then apply heat and solder down the component...

This is awesome! The way I read it you can dynamically change the clock speed with a few writes to memory? Is someone already looking to write an app to set the clock speed? Have you built a table of possible frequencies or is it just those two available without resistor/oscillator changes?

These are OTP (one time programmable) right? I would expect anything coming from eBay to be reclaimed and thus unable to be reprogrammed. The ATMEL equivalents are reprogrammable but they have a few configuration bits that need to be set to get the same reset behaviour.

From what I can see the connector wires are soldered directly to the PCB, meaning over time there is a possibility of the wire breaking at the solder point. A better solution if you are selling them would be to use crimp PCB terminal pins and solder those instead.

I personally would be worried that the electrical tape will eventually come unstuck with the heat from the PSU. I think you might have a touching issue at the sides of the heatsink too? It will "probably" be fine but I'd suggest a proper thermally and electrically resistant product made for...

I had a similar issue - in my case the glue plcc needed reflowing as I suspect it being near the power connector, over time the flexing of removing/reinstering the power plug cracked the solder joints under the glue chip. So if as above you've already beeped out all the other ram connectivity...

I had a similar issue - the analog board wouldn't start up (which is the ticking sound) because a resistor at the bottom right was open circuit. As above check out that book and start inspecting the analog board for obvious issues... burned resistors, leaky caps etc

I recently recapped mine (Dyna) and it came back to life. Worth a shot anyway.

I'd suggest recap PSU - old caps may be weak / reforming when powered on for long periods of time. Also check/clean power connector - oxidised contacts in the PSU plug can lead to poor power distribution (measuring ok at PSU connector end but not at motherboard power connector end). In...

I think for Amiga low end controllers and the Amiga 3000 you meant to write WD33C93A not 53C80. BlueSCSI doesn't work on those (though I've been wanting to know if anyone has tried the F4 version with proper transceivers to see if it is a hardware issue). Incidentally BlueSCSI works in the the...