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I’ve tried a 575 flyback on a stock CC AB and can confirm it’ll work, but you’ll never get the image adjusted properly.

Yes. It never worked. THREAD HERE

Try inserting the caddy with a bit more “umph”…. That’s made these more reliable for me.

I’d give it a shot. Different part numbers may not mean it’s not compatible. I tried a 575 flyback in my Color Classic. It did work, but the image on the smaller CRT wasn’t dimensionally correct (and couldn’t be adjusted to be correct). Oh well. This was a shame as the 575 flyback seem to be...

Was this Rust-Oleum paint as well? I printed one and would like to get it painted. Like you, my existing battery cover was cracked and very yellow compared to the rest of the Duo.

AliExpress - very cheap. Hardest part is getting a straight cut from the long piece.

I replace the rollers in every 1xx machine I work on regardless of what they look like. It's cheap and easy. Cleaning them with IPA loosens them up and causes them to spin on the metal shafts. Very very annoying when trying to get the cursor where you want it!

I like it! How did you manage to cut that bevel in the front opening? Do you have a router?

This fascinating issue may be just the thing to convince my wife it's critical I spend $$ on a scope. I would love to see what my +5V line is doing. My suspicion is that it's trending the same as yours. Did you ever try a bleeder resistor? I still think that there's some electrolytic fluid...

I also had wondered if I shorted something out from the underside of the logic board, but my desk was empty in that area I was testing. It must have been something I missed, or a complete fluke, because the board itself still works just fine. Power supply is fine too. I have no idea what...

Doug, huge thanks for taking the time to reply. I have some news of success to share! I performed the resistor modification on two other problematic power supplies, and can happily report they're powering on/off as intended. You were right, the original bodge I made was just fine, except on my...

These Bormac schematics are driving me crazy. Based on what's recorded on the Power Supply page, I connected the 10k resistor to the wrong component. Below is what I believe it should be, based on what I can understand from the schematics (although I've never seen a transistor with this pinout)...

I dug through my bags of parts last night, and found a few 10K 1/8W chip resistors - cool! Before I started any work, I verified my power supply still had problems. Yup - turned on, but then when pressing the rear button to power down it turned right back on. I was eventually able to get it to...

This image looks the same as the one above it... am I missing something?

I thoroughly enjoyed this series of troubleshooting. As someone who has a pile of Sony IIsi PSUs which exhibit this exact behavior, it hits close to home! I don't have a scope (wish I did), so the only thing I could think to do was clean, clean, and clean the power supply again. My thought was...

What accelerator do you have installed? I recall having this same behavior with my Performer clone... never could get it to work right. Freezes, bus errors, random crashes, etc.

When you get the black screen, is this with onboard video or a PCI video card? I am currently only able to get video out using a PCI card, and am curious what your setup is. I may have similar memory issues!

The CPU runs at 16MHz on these cards regardless of what processor is installed on the Performer board. Having a 40MHz marked CPU is nice but it’s still only going to run at 16MHz…

Yes it's the overclock causing trouble. You can use an emulator like Basilisk to install onto the disk image you're using. You could also revert back to stock 25MHz speed to do the install, then try the overclock again. Easiest thing would be to install from a modern computer, then reinsert the...

I've used a Dremel tool with a thin cutting disc attached. Work your way around the case slowly and you should be able to reattach the top fairly easily!