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Will do.

I don't see anything immediately alarming but it's really hard to tell because of how blurry they are.

Have you checked the other side of that PCB? I think there are one or two. If not then it must have been a different revision.

Could you send a photo of the full top side of the logic board?

"i'll be real man. you're getting way ahead of yourself." - maybe not a putdown, but it's discouraging for no good reason. You learn how to do things by researching and asking others. OP saw a cool old laptop they wanted to get running, did some research on it, found out what they'll need to...

I will have to download this to see how it compares to some other non-generic block games which I have run on my vintage macs! Good work :)

Chips look dirty from cap leakage. I don't see anything in your photos that looks like damage which would require component replacement (aside from the capacitors). I wouldn't bother with replacing or messing with the ports until you have the logic board running. Then, you can deoxit and clean...

The single electrolytic on the inverter needs replacement. Others are fine. I do believe there are caps in the floppy drive that I don't have noted on MacDat yet (didn't know about them until recently), and those need to go. LCD must be recapped. Powering on will probably not damage it, but you...

Ports look fine to me. Got a photo of the top side of the motherboard? I can give an analysis on the damage. I don't know for sure if the floppy drive on the Portable needs recapping or not. Maybe someone else can chime in.

No need to try to put them down. You learn by doing the work. OP has clearly done/is doing their research and I'm confident they'll get it running. A couple tips: - As others have said, definitely practice removing and replacing caps on a junk board before attempting anything on the Portable...

I've gone ahead and updated the capacitor reference on MacDat for the March update (will be out in a week or so), C303 and NTC1 values were missing. Thanks for posting this :)

The 520c display uses through-hole capacitors which aren't especially prone to leaking like the surface mount caps used on systems like the 180c are. I would still recommend recapping it, but it isn't life or death yet if the panel is still working fine. The stock battery is indeed NiMH. If...

I am also interested if your rebuild was successful.

The 1400 battery uses eight 4/3A NiMH cells. You can get new ones from Tenergy: https://power.tenergy.com/4-3a-17670-size-nimh-3800mah-rechargeable-batteries/ Unfortunately the price has pretty much doubled since I bought a set a little over a year ago. I'm guessing tariffs are to blame. You...

The 180 uses the second-gen motherboard (160/165/180), so the CPU cards can't be swapped into a 1st gen board (140/145/170).

Usually tantalum and ceramic caps fail by shorting out. If that were happening here, you’d probably have no power. I’m just saying that because of how many hours of use those boards have seen, anything could be suspect because you’re sort of in uncharted territory. I would say though that it is...

You've got a very unique case here due to just how many hours you've put on that thing. You're into the territory where even things like tantalum and ceramic capacitors are likely long past their rated hours, so any number of things could be slightly out of spec enough to cause random flaky...

These aren’t as bad but still have cap issues. Have you for sure validated that it’s outputting 7.5V?

Man, seeing CC_333 with anything other than the iMac G3s feels a little strange!

The 100 series 2 amp power supplies have bad leaky caps 100% of the time. Bust it open, analyze the damage, and get recapping.