Definitely polymer. That purple color is a dead giveaway. The only time I have seen purple colored electrolytics has been on obvious large radial caps in power supplies and the like.
I think the way it works is that if certain system files manage to make it outside of the first 8GB of the partition, things get messed up. So it will work for a while, but eventually can/will break.
Motherboard to interconnect cable should be the same. interconnect cable to the LCD will be different. If you want to do a full swap to passive matrix, just change the LCD and the Interconnect -> LCD cable and it should be right up and running.
The Hosiden panel is a little uncommon, yes. Still...
Oh my goodness. Sneaky sneaky sneaky Toshiba! I will look more in to this when I'm home from college in about a week and will update the cap reference on MacDat ASAP! Thank you for letting me know about this!
Oh I see, they're polymer. No need to replace those 99% of the time, and if they do fail, they won't leak (they're solid state).
Thanks for the photo - I've heard people reference this revision for a couple years but never saw a photo.
The CCFL tube is fine. LCD is displaying symptoms of it not receiving a proper video signal, ie, cable is loose or the signal isn't reaching the LCD due to other causes. There are four different cable connections which could be loose (motherboard -> interconnect board and interconnect board ->...
I'd just recommend rebuilding a 5300 battery instead. They work in the 3400c, although wouldn't give as long of a runtime as the Lithium battery would have when new.
I've got two working right now (or, last time I tested them anyway), but still with the problem where they only run for half as long as they should. I think I just need to use different cells. I have one more non-rebuilt battery which I need to crack open. When I get around to it, I'm going to...
It's clear to me at this point that the EMM is a very poorly designed BMS. Drains the cells flat on its own, constantly produces EEPROM errors such that there are two aftermarket tools to fix this, and on top of all that seemingly just likes to drop totally dead. I had one do the same thing (way...
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