Recent content by schrockwell

I tried reflowing U5, but no improvement. I will keep looking around that area for dodgy traces. I didn't clean the analog board yet, but I will have to try that as well. Does anybody have a schematic for 820-0326-B? I cannot find it anywhere.

I am in the midst of repairing a Classic II. It was very clean inside, with the PRAM battery intact and the expected amount of capacitor leakage. It's fully-functional after replacing the electrolytics on the analog and main boards. Even the original HDD still works. The floppy drive needs some...

They are available on eBay for $8.50 per socket: https://www.ebay.com/itm/205016183544

Oops, I misunderstood your question earlier. Here are the BOMs. Both are required, and they don't cover everything, but it's a good start. DigiKey (see note below): https://www.digikey.com/en/mylists/list/HGZ2S1DT7P Mouser...

Fair question. I only ended up needing 3 sockets. So I guess the cost is not totally accurate. I had ordered 4 sets in total: one extra set as a spare in case I messed something up, and then 2 more sets for a local friend who is tackling his own Reloaded so that he has some spares, too.

I used the BOM file from the GitHub repo with a few adjustments from my PR. Great! Thank you!

A few more minor updates. I replaced the fan with a Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX which I measured to be only 1 dB quieter than the stock fan. I think the fan itself is quieter, but a higher CFM is being forced through the slats in the back, making up for that difference. I also took out the HDD to make...

Well, this has been an adventure. I have learned so much, leveled up my soldering and troubleshooting skills, and spent a godawful amount of time and money (more on that later). But I do have this one-of-a-kind little guy to show for it. In fact, I'm writing this post on the SE/30 right now...

This afternoon I completely disassembled the enclosure to get the metal frame out. I sanded down the corroded areas with Scotch-Brite pads and steel wool until they were relatively smooth, then hit it with a couple coats of Krylon Satin Nickel. I swear it looks good as new - maybe even better...

I don't want to jinx it, but we are nearing the home stretch here. I took the board to a friend who has a large ultrasonic bath. It was disgusting. You could watch the flux flow out from the PLCC chips in big strands (see second pic). I'm happy to report that it now boots to both the ROM-inator...

Okay folks, made great progress today. I was operating under the assumption that solder flux is non-conductive. It seems that this is not, in fact, the case. Today I scrubbed all around the GLUE pins with 99% IPA and a toothbrush, trying to expel as much flux from underneath as I could. And you...

UI5 was sort of crooked when I installed it, so I suspected there might be a bad connection or short somewhere in there (although I didn't detect one with a multimeter). It was impossible to determine because the RAM slots are right next to it. So I got a PLCC socket, removed the chip via heat...

Thank you for confirming, that's one fewer thing to track down. You get a gold star for sharing the FLIR imagery. This is why I love this forum.

Ran some more testing. The system is stable for about 5 minutes (flashing the floppy disk with "?") after a cold boot. Then it freezes up and fails to reset until it's been off for a few minutes. DIP components UE6, UE7, UG6, UG7, and UI6 all get really hot to the touch. So I think the lockup...

We're not out of the woods quite yet. Everything started going haywire about 90 seconds after a cold boot. I resoldered UI5 and things improved. It stayed stable for several minutes. So I powered it off and plugged in a keyboard and mouse. Neither was responsive on boot, and soon it started...