Recent content by ArjenCNX

Ah, that's right!~ i forgot about that one :-) i didn't make it for this, i doubt it will fit, the mid-section of the LCD bevel hinge is 140mm wide, i suspect this is wider then the CRT hinge. potentially quite easy to adapt though (if someone wants to do this, just let me know)

Thank you Sir!

the stand snaps in place with the grooves on the top of the Apple IIc, so it cannot slide around but is also not fully clamped by it, making sure i don't damage the sometimes fragile plastics of the casing. (but im not 100% sure if that answered your question) i never had the LCD display for...

Let me check, Unfortunately there are no markings on the screen, but in my experience its quite bright, i don't have the tools to measure it but by looking at it i would estimate it to be about 350 nits or so. If you don't like the brightness of your current panel, there are some things you can...

Hi there everyone, Recently i have spend some time to make a 3D printable display for the Apple IIc, and today is the day to share the design as all is finished, assembled, tested and so on. I am sharing the STL files so you can print the design yourself (or send it to a printing company) and...

It means the RGB guns are not aligned properly, this can be caused by focus (found on PL1, the big red trimmer) or on top of the CRT there are 2 trim-pots, they also influence that shift. if that doesn't work, check your CRT neck's convergence rings, these are not easy to adjust by any means...

if you have issues with flicker, especially when you tap the analog board with the back of a screwdriver, then you can assume there is a mechanical disconnect, these can be hard to find, and unfortunately the PCB quality of the analog board is really low. I have had an issue like this where the...

Okay update time, a very strange failure mode, it was either the DC blocking caps from the LM1825 Video signal amplifier IC to the neck board, or the diodes on the RG and B lines. my suspicion is that the diode for the red channel disconnects when hot. after replacing the diodes and the caps it...

ive also noticed a difference between the RGB DC decoupling caps on both boards, on the 820-0360C one we have film caps, 47nF/250V the other 820-0360B is 1206 SMD 100nF unknown voltage. so the later revision changed to film caps, must be a reason for that as they tend to be more expensive im...

I suspect it is a small SMD component at this point, somewhere under the video shield, that disconnects when warm

Thanks for the advice, i did that when replacing the neck board i have also replaced all electrolytic caps with nichicon or chemicon caps. no change this issue

Good point, they look good, those connectors, but ill look at them under a microscope. also, tapping the PCB doesn't do anything at all, so i though a PCB trace broken, or a dodgy connector is a less likely scenario

Hi there Guy's/Gals, im Arjen, im fixing up a CC and i have a real headscratcher on my hands, I have here a colour classic, and it has the red gun deactivate about 10 minutes after turn on, i did do some digging, and have a second analog board here, and i swapped the neck board, the video...

maybe magnetic interference ?, could there be a source of magnetic fields nearby? also cracks in PCB traces are not uncommon, and neither is soldering issues, at the least re solder all transformers back down to the board, every pin needs re-soldering. also carefully listen for arcs, especially...

I found that if you want to disassemble the battery, it is helpful to remove the top and bottom stickers first, they peel right off, then you can use a spudger between the battery and the housing and apply pressure as you pry it open. its still a shitty job, as your battling glue and clips at...