VIDEO: Recapping the SE or SE/30 Analog Board

[JDW]

It took me a while but I finally got my SE & SE/30 Analog Board recapping video published to YouTube today.  Safari users, note that you'll need Chrome or FireFox to watch it in 4K.  Don't forget to watch it on YouTube so you can check out the links I put in the text description (click SHOW MORE to see all of it), including the Mouser Cart that includes all the capacitors you will need.  Enjoy.

 

[jimjimx]

I’m not done watching yet, but you forgot the J1 pieces I was looking for...

Thanks for the help to find them.

When I type in those #s to mouser, it shows me a 6 pin connector. ?!

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0015311046/WM1042-ND/313615/?itemSeq=287242932

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0019091049/WM1606-ND/26362/?itemSeq=287243257

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/02-09-5106/WM6388-ND/252899/?itemSeq=287243638

 

[JDW]

Thanks for watching and for your comment.  The product photo on that Mouser page is wrong.  Note the Description correctly says "Pin & Socket Connectors 4P HEADER."  Also, when you open the datasheet, it too shows the wrong drawing in the upper right corner, but all the data is accurate.  And from within that datasheet there is a link to this drawing.  And if you go back to the main product page on Mouser, it shows you in the Specifications section that there are "4 Positions."  Trust me.  That product on Mouser is 100% correct.  Molex are just lazy bozos for not putting the proper pictures where they need to go, although Mouser could have fixed that had they lifted a finger.  But I have seen this before on other products.  Not everyone has an eye for detail like you and I, sadly.

Since you noticed this, I will update the YouTube text description to note what I have just said.

Thanks!

 

[Zippy Zapp]

I enjoyed the video, thanks for sharing.  It is nice to see a video on YouTube that is accurate as so many of these refurb/repair type videos have so many things wrong with them that it is hard to watch.  Keep up the good work.

 

[JDW]

Thank you, @Zippy Zapp!

 

[Mk.558]

*creepy splitting sound of the earth as a battered humanoid form rises from the earth*

There is no C24 on the analog board. There's a R24, but no C24. I think this is in error, when I did the parts inventory after the parts from Mouser showed up after 1 week 5 months, I thought I was missing a capacitor. So I bought a 16v 220uF cap from a local store for C21, turns out that I already had it and it's just labeled wrong. C21 is a 16v 220uF cap so nothing wrong there.

Too Long Too Confusing: C24 doesn't exist, but C21 does.

E: Also I had to crank up my solder station to 800 deg F (about 425 deg C) to adequately heat up the solder pads. IDK. New tip. Use 99% Alcohol to dissolve hot melt glue. Probably will need another new tip after this + PSU because that poor Hakko tip will be taking some abuse. I wonder if my station needs to be temp-tested: I did replace the tip not long ago, but seems cold. (It's a genuine Hakko FX888D)

 

[Mk.558]

Kind of found out why my iron had to be set "so hot". On the Hakko 888D it's easier to adjust the temperature calibration than to adjust the temperature of the iron itself. Weird. This whole time I was adjusting the temp calibration not the iron itself. Carry on.

 

[LaPorta]

I have an 888D. Adjusting the temp is by holding enter till the digit flashes and then set it one at a time, right?

For large pads, I routinely use 800 degrees. It doesn't damage anything as long as you are quick. Being fast is the key.