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Trying to restore a Kanga

MattB

Well-known member
I've got a Kanga that I'm trying to put back into working order. It's in great physical shape but it won't boot. It booted previously but the keyboard was defective, so I replaced it with an NOS one. I've taken out the keyboard and cleaned the insides and everything looks good, but when I plug it into power it makes one clicking noise from the speakers and then does nothing. If I press the reset button on the back the green light above the display comes on but it still won't boot. Would a loose keyboard ribbon cable cause this behavior? Any other ways to troubleshoot one of these things?

EDIT: I should also note that the machine has been sitting for probably about two years. But that said I don't think the PRAM battery or any of the caps exploded. Everything looked clean under the keyboard. I'm going to plug it in and leave it for a while and see what happens...from what I've read that may solve the issue since the PRAM battery needs a bit of a charge to boot the machine.

 
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unity

Well-known member
Check the RAM. Im not really into PowerBooks, but I know some get weird like this if the RAM is not seated well/wrong RAM installed. Probably not the issue, but tossing it out there anyway. Otherwise I agree, PRAM battery. In some machines a dead one can prevent booting it, but removing it will let it work. So on some, its not needed but if its dead it prevents booting.

 

MattB

Well-known member
Left the machine plugged in overnight. Still exhibiting the same behavior. But even weirder, when I unplugged the power cable and hit the reset button it made the same click noise followed by a short screech from the speakers. I'm going to disassemble it again this afternoon and check the RAM and PRAM battery. It's possible I may have unseated it when accessing the ribbon cables for the keyboard. The machine has also been sitting for almost three years so I suspect the PRAM battery may be too far gone to even charge.

 

bunnspecial

Well-known member
I would remove the RAM card completely and just try booting it with only the onboard RAM.

Also, forget about the PRAM battery. I'm pretty sure the computer will boot with a dead one connected(some G3 and early Titanium PowerBooks will not boot with a dead PRAM battery connected) but just get it out of the computer before it has a chance to leak and cause problems. The battery is taped to the underside of the clutch cover.

I know I also sometimes have to go through a sort of weird sequence of trying to boot with and without the battery before it will finally come to life if it's been off for a while. It's about like trying to start my MG(or any carbureted car) in cold weather :) . Granted I do have a good battery, but that shouldn't make any difference. In any case, though, you might try combinations of battery in or out.

 

MattB

Well-known member
I'll give that a try. I've got a replacement PRAM battery from new old stock so I might as well put it in anyway as part of the restoration of the machine. Anything I should be careful of when pulling the RAM card? It looks straightforward but you never know with old computers.

 

MattB

Well-known member
Great. Thanks. I'm just hoping I don't get into the guts of this thing and find an exploded PRAM battery and damaged logic board.

 

MattB

Well-known member
I pulled the RAM out with no success, so I continued deeper into the machine and removed the PRAM battery. I think I caught it just in time, as while it had leaked it had not exploded and there appears to be no damage to the logic board as shown in the attached pictures. With the PRAM battery removed it still won't boot. Is the best thing to do right now to install a new PRAM battery and reset the power management unit?

IMG_1380.JPG

IMG_1381.JPG

 

jhorvath911

Well-known member
I have two 3400s and one of them like yours had pram battery that just had some white corrosion on it and nothing I could really visualize on the board and has the exact same symptoms. It will either click with reset or screechy kinds of noises.

I remember a while ago someone on here that went through all kinds of work with multiple 3400/3500s for the same problems but I don't remember his name to find the threads.

 

MattB

Well-known member
Pulling the PRAM battery from the malfunctioning computer may have saved my second working Kanga. I pulled the PRAM battery from the second unit and it too was starting to show signs of leaking. The only problem with that unit is that the hinges on the screen are weak. That may be the next problem I tackle. Also interestingly the internal layouts are different between the two. Were there multiple revisions of Kanga?

 

jhorvath911

Well-known member
So just for the heck of it I removed screen connections and just cleaned the whole area in picture with a toothbrush. Immediately after I was getting a perfect bong and display, might be worth trying.

image.jpg

image.jpg

 

bunnspecial

Well-known member
So just for the heck of it I removed screen connections and just cleaned the whole area in picture with a toothbrush. Immediately after I was getting a perfect bong and display, might be worth trying.
Interesting. I bought a parts 3400c a while back mostly to rob the display for my working 3400c. It would act as you've described-it would click but not go past there. It did show some PRAM battery leakage, but again I didn't really pursue it since the panel was perfect(the one on my working 3400c had an uneven border of dead pixels around it) and the case was also a bit rough.

 

jhorvath911

Well-known member
I was not planning on doing any repairs on anything tonight but this whole thread just made me pull the two out and give it some troubleshooting lol

 

MattB

Well-known member
While I'm in the guts of these machines, is their any way to tighten the screen hinges? The working Kanga I have has a screen that will stay up but it can get wobbly and I'd like to fix it if possible.

 

jhorvath911

Well-known member
I tightened both of mine with those screws that are under the hinge covers. Not sure if the kanga is identical in that aspect.

 

galgot

Well-known member
I had a very troublesome Kanga. Would boot with very loud and strange noises then crash, removing the PRAM wouldn't help.

Even changing the few caps. What "saved" it was cleaning the mainboard (even tho it looked clean) in worm soapy water, carefully with a toothbrush. Leaving it to rest 4-5 hours in the soapy water, then pass it under clear water again, and leave it to dry for good two days to be sure. It booted on first try, And thanks again to Bibilit for the idea .

These PRAM on 3400c and Kanga should be removed anyway, the way they are placed is a design fault, at one time or another they will leak on the mainboard . The way the acid then go on the board makes your 3400c/Kanga "dead" or not. Random.

But a good wash can save it.

What can help also is a powermanager reset. Unplug every thing, remove the baterry, and press the reset button on the back for 20/30 sec.

 
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MJ313

Well-known member
I think I caught it just in time, as while it had leaked it had not exploded and there appears to be no damage to the logic board as shown in the attached pictures.
I'm seeing some nasty corrosion there on a number of IC leads and traces. See where some should be silver but are kind of green? You can try washing the board... might save you. I had a 3400 that died from pram battery leakage, so I have a little bit of experience here. (Not the good kind... cleaning did nothing to save my board)

Here's what killed mine. You can kind of see what to look for in terms of corrosion.

DSC04028_zps4e5061e7.jpg.9f7aa82e3cc0216e683786b8034f5302.jpg


 
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