Schrockwell's S3/30 Reloaded build

[schrockwell]

Hi folks! I bought a battery-bombed SE/30 and am working through an SE/30 Reloaded build. This is the thread where I ask a ton of questions. I'm an EE and have done some Mac restoration over the past few months, re-capping a Plus, SE, and Classic to bring them back to life, and refurbishing several floppy drives. This is the most ambitious project yet!

It's a Rev05 board from JLCPCB with the bottom SMD pre-populated. After this project is complete, I'm happy to sell the remaining 4 boards at-cost.

Here is the progress so far. I have added nearly all the new SMD and through-hole components that don't require transplanting. After I get a few remaining parts (Y3, solder-mount PDS, sockets) I'll get to work on the donor board.

I originally had some questions to add here, but in the process of researching them, they answered themselves. Thanks, rubber ducks. So I guess this is a progress post instead.

 

[noe]

If you’re open to shipping to Europe and the cost is not prohibitive, I’d be interested in one of those boards.
And please keep us posted with any difficulties you find and how you solve them, it would be very useful to others for sure.

 

[GreenBar0n]

Would've liked one of these boards in black or purple, can't do red.

 

[Lord Refa]

I'm in the US, can you tell me what it would cost to get one of these? Thanks!

 

[schrockwell]

I'm in the US, can you tell me what it would cost to get one of these? Thanks!

Cost per board from JLC, including shipping and 55% tariff, was $62. A medium USPS flat-rate box is $18. So let's call it $80 for a board shipped to the lower 48.

Feel free to send me a DM if you're interested.

 

[schrockwell]

If you’re open to shipping to Europe and the cost is not prohibitive, I’d be interested in one of those boards.

Please let me know what country specifically. It's looking like ~$40 shipping to Europe using USPS First-Class Package International Service but I need to know the country to get the exact number.

 

[kbg3024]

Isn't it the Gerber file and BOM file provided by BOLLE that you ordered from JCLPCB?

 

[schrockwell]

Isn't it the Gerber file and BOM file provided by BOLLE that you ordered from JCLPCB?

Yes, that's correct.

 

[kbg3024]

Yes, that's correct.

Is the SMD attached only on the bottom? Or are you selling one with the SMD attached on the top as well, like in the first picture?

 

[schrockwell]

Is the SMD attached only on the bottom? Or are you selling one with the SMD attached on the top as well, like in the first picture?

It's populated on the bottom only.

 

[kbg3024]

It's populated on the bottom only.

How much would it cost to ship one to Korea, including shipping? It's not urgent

 

[schrockwell]

How much would it cost to ship one to Korea, including shipping? It's not urgent

$62 + $37 shipping = $99 total. Please DM me if you are interested. (edit: fixed price)

I should really start a new thread for another group-buy of these boards. Seems like there is enough interest.

 

[schrockwell]

Progress is slow, but steady! I finally worked up courage to tackle the PLCCs. A Redditor suggested sockets for the 20-pin PLCCs which made it immensely easier, because the pads are just too far underneath the part to solder them directly.

The other PLCCs have transferred over just fine - a lot of heat and flux is required.

I am struggling to remove the remaining DIP packages. I've tried using the hot air reflow gun from the underside at 400°C, but I can never get enough heat distributed to all the pins at once. And there is no way that technique will work for the CPU, since it will absorb so much heat.

Any advice on desoldering the DIPs, CPU, and 19-pin floppy D-sub would be greatly appreciated. The only tools I have currently are a hot air rework gun, Hakko solder pump, and soldering iron.


View attachment IMG_0338.jpeg

 

[Callan]

I know it sounds counter productive, but add solder to the dip legs your trying to remove. Its then easier to desolder the pins. It's also a lot easier to remove the solder if you pre heat and continue to heat with your hot air as you desolder with your hakko.
You have to be careful with the floppy connector or you'll melt the plastic housing and twist the legs (ask me how I know... ). Again add solder before desoldering and use your hakko.
The cpu is tough to de-solder from the board if your not pre-heating with your hot air gun.
Hang in there! It's looking good!

 

[codevonlux]

I bought this one from Amazon and it is big enough to hold the minority of the SE/20 logic board on top of it. Be careful not to put SIMM area directly on it or protect the plastic tabs on the back. After the temperature reaches the setting you can just pick any PLCC easily just with a little hot air on the top and tweezer.


For DIPs and PGA like the main CPU. I used a Hakko FR-301 portable desoldering tool that make desoldering DIP so easy. But it is expensive.

 

[schrockwell]

Almost there! Just waiting on 128 MB RAM to come tomorrow.

I had major success removing the CPU with the Hakko FR-301 after preheating it with the heat gun. The CPU came right out, only pulling a few pads. Thanks Callan for the tips!

For the floppy D-sub, I used the Hakko for the pins, and soldering iron + solder sucker for the board anchors. Didn't end up needing the heat gun for this.

I managed to crack one of the Bourns filters, so I ordered some modern replacements from JLC. I'll be putting the spares up for sale when they arrive. In the meantime I can still boot and test the board, I just can't use one of the serial ports.

The original ROM card was toast – the PCB pads were totally eaten away by battery acid. Instead, I installed the Mac ROM-inator II Carbon from Big Mess o' Wires. Looking forward to trying that out.

The Phoenix 30-pin SIMM sockets are up to $38 apiece!! What in the world?! I found them on eBay for $8.50 each.

So… what did I forget? What's left to do or check before the initial power-up? I opened up the CR-44 power supply and didn't find any evidence of capacitor failure. Output voltages all look good. I have a replacement capacitor kit on-hand if needed.

 

[zigzagjoe]

Almost there! Just waiting on 128 MB RAM to come tomorrow.

I had major success removing the CPU with the Hakko FR-301 after preheating it with the heat gun. The CPU came right out, only pulling a few pads. Thanks Callan for the tips!

For the floppy D-sub, I used the Hakko for the pins, and soldering iron + solder sucker for the board anchors. Didn't end up needing the heat gun for this.

I managed to crack one of the Bourns filters, so I ordered some modern replacements from JLC. I'll be putting the spares up for sale when they arrive. In the meantime I can still boot and test the board, I just can't use one of the serial ports.

The original ROM card was toast – the PCB pads were totally eaten away by battery acid. Instead, I installed the Mac ROM-inator II Carbon from Big Mess o' Wires. Looking forward to trying that out.

The Phoenix 30-pin SIMM sockets are up to $38 apiece!! What in the world?! I found them on eBay for $8.50 each.

So… what did I forget? What's left to do or check before the initial power-up? I opened up the CR-44 power supply and didn't find any evidence of capacitor failure. Output voltages all look good. I have a replacement capacitor kit on-hand if needed.

View attachment 91989

Your CPU is rotated off by 180 degrees.

 

[joevt]

Your CPU is rotated off by 180 degrees.

We can see that the silkscreen indicates the position of pin 1 (diagonal outside corner) in the images at:

https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/obsoletes-se-30-reloaded-build.46570/

https://www.reddit.com/r/VintageApple/comments/1idtecy
I guess the presence of the socket obfuscates that? But no, the image of the socket in the first post in this thread shows that the socket also indicates the same orientation for pin 1 (the diagonal inside corner of the socket).

 

[schrockwell]

Your CPU is rotated off by 180 degrees.

Oh my god… a gold star for you. Thank you so much for finding that.

And joevt, you happened to find the one post on the entire Internet from the friend of mine who encouraged me to take on this project. I fixed up that SE in the background of his photo.

 

[schrockwell]

It's alive!!! Thanks again to everyone for all the help to get to this moment. Will continue reassembling and testing, but what a milestone.