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Replace hdd im Macintosh SE

geeko

Well-known member
i got a mac se at a garage sale a little while back, and it was working fine. then one day, i powered it on and it only boots to a [?] . i put in the system floppy, and it booted from that.i then chose the hdd from the boot menu and rebooted. it worked fine for a little while, but now it does the same thing as before, only now the installer does not recognize and hdd. what should i do? i have the system restore (copy of) 6.0.8, but know i need a new hdd. what should i get, and how should i go about replacing it. i have never taken a compact mac apart, and i am afraid of the CRT. also, what tools do i need to do this repair?

thanks,

Geeko

 

geeko

Well-known member
i tried the search bar, and it ignores "se" i really need just to know what type of hdd to get/what recommendation people have for this issue

btw, can i use the scsi hdd from a PM 8600, it is like 2gb

 

Scott Baret

Well-known member
I recommend a Quantum ProDrive LPS. These drives were used by Apple in the early 1990s, mostly in LCs, and can easily be had for a few dollars (often as part of an LC or LCII). The ProDrive LPS is quiet, quick, and has an easily accessible connector for an LED wire (which you'll want in an SE since it has a HDD indicator lamp in the front bezel, driven by a bulb in the SE's mounting bracket).

To access the SE's hard drive, you'll need to first remove the cover. If you don't already own one, buy a long-shafted Torx T-15 screwdriver. There are two screws near the ports and two underneath the case handle. Work the case apart with your hands (don't use a flat screwdriver or other tool on it or else you may damage the case). Once the back cover has been popped off, locate the hard drive. It's facing connector-side up. Disconnect the power cable (four-prong) and the SCSI cable (ribbon-style). (If the old drive is a MiniScribe, the power cable is a bit tough to remove due to its angle, but patience will pay off here--just keep wiggling it). There are two Philips head screws at the base of this bracket that connect it to the floppy bracket. Remove both, and make sure to use a relatively large screwdriver (since these screws are often held in very tightly, especially if the bracket has never been removed before).

Once you get the bracket out, disconnect the wire that connects the LED to the drive's front pins. Remove the four screws on the side and pop the new drive in. You may have to play around with the positioning until you find a suitable place for the screws. In some cases, you may only be able to get two screws in, but as long as they are holding the drive in securely and in line with the bracket (not tilted or at an angle) you should be fine. Connect the LED wire to the pins on the drive and reconnect the drive bracket. Pop the two cables in and your drive is good to go.

The CRT's big danger point is the anode cap, which is the red suction cup style connector. Most SEs self discharge their CRTs, but to err on the side of caution, make sure you don't touch it. (If you do need to remove it at any time, it shouldn't be an issue, but I always use an insulated pair of pliers to remove these cups). Also, when you pull the drive bracket out, be sure not to bump the CRT's neck. As long as you are careful and take it slowly you shouldn't have any problem with avoiding this fragile piece of your display.

Speaking of the LED, has anyone else tried different colors for their LEDs in SEs? I once put a blue LED in an SE's hard drive bracket and it looked awesome! (Most of them came with red or amber, although I did see a stock SE SuperDrive with green LED at a school in the early 1990s). If I can find violet, I want to try that next.

 

geeko

Well-known member
ok,thanks, i'm gonna try to do that next week. it i'll be a big jump for the se to have a 2gb hdd instead of a 20mb one.

the funny thing is is that the light for the hdd lights up almost normally, but the hdd is still not recognized

 

phreakout

Well-known member
Geeko,

You can use most of any 50-pin SCSI drive in existence. Just be aware that if the replacement drive doesn't have an Apple logo, or indicate that it is Apple formatted on it, you will need to use a "patched" version of Apple SC HD Setup version 7.3.5. This app has been specially modified to handle non-Apple formatted hard drives.

Don't be afraid to open up the casing. By the time you power down the SE, unplug it from the wall and begin to unscrew the case, almost all of the electrical power should be well drained from the analog board and CRT. I'd be more concerned of broken glass from a CRT than I would of high voltage; this would mean replacing the CRT if you snap off the skinny neck or punctured the front of the screen. Just take your time and don't rush through it.

If you need directions on how to take it apart, I have a copy of a PDF file with detailed information on everything inside and out about the Mac SE. It is normally used by Apple Authorized Repair Technicians to provide take apart instructions, specs and troubleshooting steps for any possible problem documented. Just send me a PM with your email address and I'll send it to you.

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

 

ppuskari

Well-known member
Is that right? OR does the automatic discharge of the crt only happen on the SE line??

I worked on LOT'S of the 128, 512, Plus models in college, and we ALWAYS screwdriver discharged them and they ALWAYS snapped the static charge off. YES, we did it wrong :) We didn't slow discharge through a big resistor and screwdriver lead.... But I can attest there WAS a charge there and some of those machines were off for many days before we cracked the cases on them.

Curious for sure to the answer here.

 

tomlee59

Well-known member
There is no need to perform the CRT discharge ritual if you are not going to remove the HV lead from the CRT. Yes, it's standard advice from the manufacturer, but following it makes sense only if you are going to separate the analog board from the CRT.

Most CRT circuits have quite minimal self-discharge means, and the compacts are no exception. If you do not want to use the "grounded screwdriver" discharge method, simply crank up the brightness, verify that all disk activity has ceased, and then pull out the AC power cord. The residual beam current suffices to discharge the HV to quite low levels.

 

ppuskari

Well-known member
Learn something new everyday!

Thanks a lot for the feedback! After doing that screwdriver trick to over 200 macs back in the day, I still don't like that moment right before contact to the frame.. Makes me jump still every time!

ppuskari

 

Dog Cow

Well-known member
Most CRT circuits have quite minimal self-discharge means, and the compacts are no exception.
From what I've heard, only the newer compact Macs, such as the Classic and Classic II have an automatic discharge.

 
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