Removing Serial Number stick on Mac 128k before de-yellowing

[Corey986]

So I am going to do a full restoration on a Mac 128 I just got.  I will be doing a complete analog board recap and servicing the drive.  While I have it apart it makes sense to remove the horrid yellowing.  I plan on using a 3% peroxide solution and immersing empty case, keyboard case and mouse case.   

I know I need to remove the front apple logo, that's easy after I discharge the tube.   I don't think I need to remove the plastic sticker on the back, but I'm concerned about the serial number sticker under the bottom of the front bezel being immersed.  There is also a similar sticker on the mouse.   Should I remove them since it will be immersed in peroxide?  Will they survive?  If not, can I simply use a heat gun or hair dryer to heat of the sticker and peel off?  Some stickers are thermal sensitive.

Also what about the rubber feet?  Should I remove them and re-attach when I'm done?

Thanks,

Corey

 

[Johnnya101]

The rubber feet are fine. Usually they kind of get sticky, but dry out within a few days after treatment.

As for labels, with a 128k yes, try and remove as much as possible. I am pretty sure these ones are the ones that peel up with heat! Do NOT take my word for it though. If this is the case, remove all labels. I don't because the ones I do are not rare enough.

 

[Corey986]

I was thinking the back plastic label would get damaged trying to remove it.  Since its plastic and looks like it's painted from behind I hope I don't have to remove it.  I was watching a video on youtube of a woman who was doing a 3% perioxide bath of a 128, and she removed the plastic label but the paint peeled off a little on the label which hopefully indicates she shouldn't have removed it.  She shows already removed serial number labels and they do look like they might not survive the bath, which is why I am asking about those stickers specifically.

Thanks,

Corey

 

[Johnnya101]

Oh okay then. Don't remove that back label then! Im not sure what the barcode ones are made of, but Im assuming regular old thin sticker stuff, so try and remove those then...

 

[Themk]

Leave the large real label on, its not really paper, so it will be fine.

I feel you though, the small serial number label is kind of susceptible to damage when submerged in retr0bright, but at the same time you don't want to ruin it trying to remove it from the case....  Maybe tape with REALLY REALLY REALLY weak adhesive (like sticky note type adhesive; but don't use a sticky note, the liquid will penetrate right through it) might work to help protect the label... Regular tape adhesive is too strong, it will damage the label when you try to remove the tape...

 

[Corey986]

Well here is an update.

A heat gun and some patience with a hobby knife the serial number stickers come off. You just have to be careful they don't bubble. Here is the kicker. They are clear plastic with the printing on the inside and then a white double sided tape to install them. The yellowish look of the sticker is the white tape that has yellowed. You can soak them in 93% ISP to soften up the white tape after you remove them and it will separate. You can then mechanically remove it using your nail gently.

Then get a piece of white double sided tape larger than the label so you don't have seam lines and it's like new. Still working on the actual Mac 128 so I don't have any pictures yet, but this is a complete restoration I'm performing.

Cheers,

Corey

 

[joethezombie]

thanks corey, that's really good to know!

 

[Corey986]

One note I realized I might have missed.  This only works for the main unit sticker.  Don't use it for the keyboard or mouse.  They are done differently.

 

[Johnnya101]

So wait, did you buy a tub worth of hydrogen peroxide? How much did it cost? I usually do brush on, but it needs to be brushed all the time...

 

[Corey986]

So I bought three peroxide "developer 20" one gallon jugs (6%) for about $20.  I dumped two in and filled up a container. so that it covered all the parts.  I left it for three days aggitating it every few hours. I also rotated the container in the sun and brought it in at night.  I used the third jug at the beginning of the third day to top it off figuring most of the peroxide had stopped working.

I did have to use "developer 40 cream" on the space bar, it was bad.  That took about 3 hours in the sun but it needed to be watched and rebrushed constantly to prevent drying out.  Then I wet sanded it a little to smooth out the finish which was a little weird because you could see exactly where the persons thumbs hit the space bar for many years.

I like the liquid peroxide because it is even.  If you get whitish spots, it actually means you haven't left it in long enough because some areas seems to clean up faster than others, but when they hit a certain point, everything balances out.

For the keycaps, they just went in a one dollar 3% peroxide bath, topped off with water for about 2 to 3 hours.  So effectively 1.5% when diluted.

I'll post a pic in a few...

 

[Johnnya101]

Sounds like it turned out great! Do you think you could find a link online to that gallon jugs you used? Sounds like a better thing to use then what Ive been using.

 

[Themk]

I just buy 32oz bottles at my local grocery store. 4 bottles is a gallon, each bottle costs $0.88. I also use oxy-clean powder with the H2O2.

 

[Johnnya101]

Oh that's a lot easier to do than ordering the stuff online (since no where near me would sell it)...