I don't actually have the 5300c yet, so I don't know what the condition of the battery is yet. The end goal is to rebuild a 5300c (possibly therefore also a 190, I don't know) battery. I know next to nothing about this, so I will need some basic knowledge help to begin. (To wit
1) Let's presuppose, hypothetically, that I don't want to crack open the battery either because I want to retain the original configuration, or possibly because it holds enough charge to warrant keeping it. The issues primarily into aesthetic and functional.
A) Are there any (or what are the) dangers of essentially putting a battery pack (probably taped or in rubber) into the battery slot, held into place with something - tape or other plastic - and probably pushed toward the contacts by maybe cardboard or something?
B ) As I see them (in pictures), there are 4 metallic strips on the battery that connect to four contacts in the PB's battery slot (I'd bet). So does anyone know what each of the contacts are? Are they +/-/+/- (for instance) - I would need to know that configuration, I think. [This I actually looked through the Apple replacement (?) manual for but it didn't mention anything this detailed. If my battery works and it's that simple I may be able to figure it out, but if not maybe someone has done/can do that.]
2) If I want to go through Amazon, realistically I'm probably limited to 3500 mAh (the battery in question uses 12 NiMH 1.2v AA's). I've also been looking at AliBaba, where I can theoretically get 5000 mAh or 10000 mAh batteries. Does anyone know the stock rating - is it around 3800? What are the risks of pushing way above that/what should I look to get?
- I've only encountered this with the eMate (and only in passing, reading), where people were pushing it a bit - maybe to 1.5x the original rating.
3) Then we get into practical stuff. I was reading a battery repack for an eMate (was thinking about using buying an eMate to learn this stuff) and they soldered the batteries into sequence. Why can't I just tape them in sequence in rows of three, say, and connect (solder maybe or even glue? tape, if that's insane - please tell me if it is...) the wires on ... each/one end? I'll do more research on the specifics of sequencing them.
My basic thought is after actually configuring the batteries, the four leads (I'll probably need help on where they're going to be coming from) would just get soldered to metallic strips put on... a piece of cardboard coated with electrical tape(?) and then taped to the battery pack, which would have stoppers of some sort to take up space on the other side and hold it (horizontally) into place.
Functionally I haven't thought too hard about how to hold it into place vertically.
I've basically found one article referring to the PB 5300 battery rebuild (http://www.alksoft.com/5300_FAQ/FAQ_2.10.php) and it isn't helpful in this context. So I apologize for being detailed here but I think it'd be useful even if I don't actually "rebuild" the battery, since it seems there's no guide to this out there.
1) Let's presuppose, hypothetically, that I don't want to crack open the battery either because I want to retain the original configuration, or possibly because it holds enough charge to warrant keeping it. The issues primarily into aesthetic and functional.
A) Are there any (or what are the) dangers of essentially putting a battery pack (probably taped or in rubber) into the battery slot, held into place with something - tape or other plastic - and probably pushed toward the contacts by maybe cardboard or something?
B ) As I see them (in pictures), there are 4 metallic strips on the battery that connect to four contacts in the PB's battery slot (I'd bet). So does anyone know what each of the contacts are? Are they +/-/+/- (for instance) - I would need to know that configuration, I think. [This I actually looked through the Apple replacement (?) manual for but it didn't mention anything this detailed. If my battery works and it's that simple I may be able to figure it out, but if not maybe someone has done/can do that.]
2) If I want to go through Amazon, realistically I'm probably limited to 3500 mAh (the battery in question uses 12 NiMH 1.2v AA's). I've also been looking at AliBaba, where I can theoretically get 5000 mAh or 10000 mAh batteries. Does anyone know the stock rating - is it around 3800? What are the risks of pushing way above that/what should I look to get?
- I've only encountered this with the eMate (and only in passing, reading), where people were pushing it a bit - maybe to 1.5x the original rating.
3) Then we get into practical stuff. I was reading a battery repack for an eMate (was thinking about using buying an eMate to learn this stuff) and they soldered the batteries into sequence. Why can't I just tape them in sequence in rows of three, say, and connect (solder maybe or even glue? tape, if that's insane - please tell me if it is...) the wires on ... each/one end? I'll do more research on the specifics of sequencing them.
My basic thought is after actually configuring the batteries, the four leads (I'll probably need help on where they're going to be coming from) would just get soldered to metallic strips put on... a piece of cardboard coated with electrical tape(?) and then taped to the battery pack, which would have stoppers of some sort to take up space on the other side and hold it (horizontally) into place.
Functionally I haven't thought too hard about how to hold it into place vertically.
I've basically found one article referring to the PB 5300 battery rebuild (http://www.alksoft.com/5300_FAQ/FAQ_2.10.php) and it isn't helpful in this context. So I apologize for being detailed here but I think it'd be useful even if I don't actually "rebuild" the battery, since it seems there's no guide to this out there.
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