PowerBook 170 Power Supply Brick

[mitchW]

I got an old PowerBook 170 AC adapter for repair. Model: M5140 (APS-20U). It is completely dead and I can see some very light plastic deformation from heat in the top right side, so it must have been working hot for some time before it died.

At first I hoped that it is screwed together, but sadly it looks like it isn't.

I want to get it open and see what is wrong, but I want to be as much as non-invasive as possible, so if I could repair it, I would be able to put it together and it won't look mangled.

Any ideas of how to proceed?

 

[uniserver]

There is a fellow on this board, i think his name was Ferrix or something like that.

it seemed to me like he used a bench vise to break the Welded / Glue'd  joints.

i'v personally never been into one.

i'm sure that day will come.. sure it will be there when i get to it.

 

[mitchW]

Thanks. I will probably use dremel to cut the case open at the weld. Or perhaps a hot knife would also do...

Are there any pictures of this opening process using bench vise?

 

[uniserver]

did you see the video?  looks like he uses 2 screwdrivers and the vice

 

[Ferrix97]

you can also use plastic spacers, my intention (in the video) was to apply pressure on the center portion on both sides, but it turns out that it you apply pressure on the corners too, it comes apart much quicker

is my browser or there is a problem on the forum?, rather than getting the player, there is just white empty space.

here is the video

 

[mitchW]

Yup, I didn't see the video at all, just a blank space. Ferrix97, thanks, I can now see that this could be done without much effort

I'll try to open it and post the results

 

[mitchW]

I tried the vise method and it worked. Then I proceeded with inspection. As expected, there were 4 badly leaking ELNA capacitors, so I replaced them all. Here is the list, if someone wants to order capacitors before opening the brick:

• 16V 1200 micro F
• 16V 180 micro F
• 16V 82 micro F
• 50V 47 micro F

I left only the main reservoir capacitor original (400V 47 micro F), since it wasn't leaking and it even showed a bit lower ESR than same brand new one. The power adapter now works, but I would have to borrow my friend's PB 170 to test it.

Few notes:

Only concern about the opening procedure is that I used a bit too much force so the case around the power jack cracked a bit and the case deformed. Luckily I used my SMD heat gun at 120 deg. C to heat up the case, and it returned to the original shape. Next time, I would rather use two pieces of wood instead of screwdrivers to spread the force more evenly.

Also since the capacitors leaked into the sealed case, the corrosion damage was extensive. The leaking electrolyte got under the solder mask, and even after cleaning it with hot soapy water and then drying it for a few hours, I didn't get it all out. Probably the best method would be to scrape all the bad solder mask off, clean it all, and apply some solder mask repair ink, to protect the copper.

 

[Ferrix97]

Every time I open one, I always find corrosion, sometimes very little, sometimes a lot.

If there is too much corrosion I was the board to remove all of the junk and then I spray some "renewal plastifer", a protective plastic coating for PCBs

 

[uniserver]

mitch what version of brick do you have?  120 or 230 volts.

 

[Ferrix97]

I think that they are universal, all the ones I have are 100-240, The only thing that changes is the mains AC plug, which is also a separate part from the housing.

There should be three or four version of this power supply:

-one has a huge DC plug (with 24W written on it), they don't have the capacitor issue (yet) (I own one and it is the only one that has never been opened), the model number is M5652 (APS-46E) on the label, it outputs 7.5V, 3A

-the more common (and older) one, with a small DC plug, model M5140 (APS-20E), all of them suffer from leaky ELNAs. It outputs 7.5V,  2A, I own 5 of these and repaired a lot of them.

-another one that looks the same as the APS-20E, doesn't have ELNA capacitors but there are two "box" (GameGear) style one on the vertical controller board that usually fail, I don't have one, so I can't give you all the specs

There should be another model, maybe used for the QuickTake or other accessories, it looks the same as the powerbooks ones but I think it has a different circuit inside, just seen this model in photos

 

[uniserver]

Yup they are universal.

however they come with different molded electrical connections.

My hunch is the bricks ran at 230v seem to die quicker.

I have a whole box of powerbook bricks here, and all of them work great still.

I'm in the states, and my bricks are all 120v electrically configured.

 

[Ferrix97]

what models do you have?

 

[uniserver]

pretty much all of them…  2.0a to 3.0a

 

[Ll3macorn]

i know this is an extremly old post, but does anyone know what size capacitors to get?

 

[desertrout]

i know this is an extremly old post, but does anyone know what size capacitors to get?

It will depend on the adapter model, so it's probably best to open yours up, remove and measure the caps.

 

[Ll3macorn]

It will depend on the adapter model, so it's probably best to open yours up, remove and measure the caps.

ive got the same model they are talking about, and ive already thrown the caps away

 

[desertrout]

ive got the same model they are talking about, and ive already thrown the caps away

OK - I'm not able to identify one specific model in the thread above, so what is the model adapter you have?

 

[Ll3macorn]

OK - I'm not able to identify one specific model in the thread above, so what is the model adapter you have?

i think its the M5140

 

[desertrout]

There's a cap list for the 5140 in the first post of this thread: https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/recapping-powerbook-100-series-7-5v-2a-ac-adapter.28/

That post links to suitable replacements at Mouser, so make note of the physical sizing as well when ordering from your vendor of choice --- choose caps with at least the same diameter and lead spacing. Height shouldn't be an issue except for the large 400V cap at C108, make sure it's shorter than 25mm.

 

[Ll3macorn]

There's a cap list for the 5140 in the first post of this thread: https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/recapping-powerbook-100-series-7-5v-2a-ac-adapter.28/

That post links to suitable replacements at Mouser, so make note of the physical sizing as well when ordering from your vendor of choice --- choose caps with at least the same diameter and lead spacing. Height shouldn't be an issue except for the large 400V cap at C108, make sure it's shorter than 25mm.

mouser is like 20-30 dollar shipping which is ridiculous, so with digikey