PowerBook 1400 Hinge Fix Shim

[3lectr1cPPC]

From what I recall, I think they sat pretty close to flat. Not positive though. Way I'd test is to hack up a bad condition housing and see.

 

[AEChadwick]

@AEChadwick, looking to make my own, custom fix as well...but I am wondering if the screw bosses actually contact the flat back of the case inside the standoffs...or if they are "raised up" a bit...can you say?

if i understand the question...

this is designed to re-use the existing bosses; melt-push the bosses into the holes until they are flush to the face of the printed shim.

at that point, the bosses will also be in contact with the existing case-wall. to wit, the shim is the same thickness as the bosses.

this is only a little funky around the single boss that screws into the clutch--the shape is a little weird there--but it should still work the same: flush to the shim face = in contact with case back (fill any gaps with glue, etc)

let me know if that helps. (if i have a minute, i will go pull a lid apart and point.)

 

[3lectr1cPPC]

Thinking back, I don't think the bottom one in the "well" so to speak of the housing reached the bottom - it was shorter than the others.

 

[MacUp72]

@AEChadwick, looking to make my own, custom fix as well...but I am wondering if the screw bosses actually contact the flat back of the case inside the standoffs...or if they are "raised up" a bit...can you say?

can you clarify what you mean exactly? is your question if the brass screw inserts are fully sunk into its correponding holes, touching the actual back of the display housing?Just compare how deep they are now, thats the height/position they need to be afterwards, otherwise the screws cant reach them correctly.



this how it looked on mine, I used the same stl file. When it is glued in, the correct alignment of the new and old holes' position underneath is crucial. The height of the shim is the same as the old standoffs.

 

[LaPorta]

Yes that is exactly what I am asking. I need to know if they sit against the plastic all the way in those standoffs. If they do, it will make what I’m doing much easier.

 

[MacUp72]

well, make sure the the shim sits correctly, otherwise alignment wont work. I marked the position of the old standoff holes with a silver marker before, so I was sure the new holes wouldnt be off. Then glue it down. Then I just put the brass standoffs on a hot soldering iron for 5 seconds and pushed them in the holes..the depth is the same

 

[BinaryGrind]

So I've got 3 PB1400s (technically 5, two are in pieces, so IDK if their totally complete). Would preemptively printing this and installing this be a good idea? None of mine are showing cracks at the hinge yet, but I know know how brittle the plastic is due to time.

@AEChadwick - If I do print this out would it be alright if I throw my print profile up on Makerworld for other Bambu users?

 

[AEChadwick]

If I do print this out would it be alright if I throw my print profile up on Makerworld for other Bambu users?

please upload wherever it can help people. maybe tag me in; i have no presence on Makerworld, but you could link to the original on printables

 

[BinaryGrind]

please upload wherever it can help people. maybe tag me in; i have no presence on Makerworld, but you could link to the original on printables

Absolutely will link it back to printables and tag you. Thanks for making it in the first place.

 

[LaPorta]

Hey guys: what is the preferred adhesive cement to bond these things? Going to work on and document mine on my week off.

 

[AEChadwick]

I use Sci Grip 10315 “Weld On #16”. It’s probably overkill, but i like it: when it’s fresh it has a decent work time, and the bond has incomparable sheer strength.

 

[LaPorta]

Is there anywhere else that might carry that? Waiting till Thursday vis Amazon would totally kill my time! Do you use it liberally behind the plate?

 

[AEChadwick]

Do you use it liberally behind the plate?

i put the glue on the the lid then clamp the shim down over that. I do a bead around the perimeter, then apply the glue in a series of long thin beads across the entire area, about ¼-½" apart, with the intent that it will mash together and fill the space without leaking out the side too much. I try to make sure the edges are sealed. (i don't remember where or why i learned that, it's just what i do)

good bet that any plastic supply place or sign shop will have Weld On 16, but i'm probably not objective. (i work in hollywood with loads of atypical vendors... and amazon seems to deliver everything here in under 12 hours)

I think you would get similar results from plastruct or one of Tamiya’s glues, if you have a model shop. (Nothing against Cyanoacrylate glue, but the amount required would generate a lot of ugly fumes...)

 

[LaPorta]

Is the stuff thick or thin? I can get a ton of model cement, I build models!

 

[AEChadwick]

Is the stuff thick or thin?

thin! not watery, it has enough thickness to hold a bead, very comparable to CA glue, but not as gassy nor as brittle.

You build models = i defer to your judgment, i'm sure you have great plastic-melting-chemicals available. (just do a test first!)

 

[LaPorta]

Indeed I do, these days there are so many different cements available, it is crazy. I know what you are getting at: CA just bonds the parts, this other stuff literally melts the plastics into a single, solid piece. Much better bond. Thank you...just wanted to make sure that it would work with the shims I was given. I will test one part of it, a tiny area on the underside with a drop. If after a few minutes it becomes a but tacky and the plastic gives, it will work just like model plastic.

 

[AEChadwick]

CA just bonds the parts, this other stuff literally melts the plastics into a single, solid piece.

yes! i should have just said that. you get it exactly. godspeed and good luck.