3lectr1cPPC
Well-known member
One game I tried on my 100 crashed in humerus fashion. No errors, it just immediately rebooted.
I’ve recapped a whole bunch of PB100 recently and they all had the backlit blank screen issue. The first one which I recapped with tantalum caps still had the same symptom when I retested but weirdly worked perfectly the next day. But a few days later it started randomly doing it again. It is still unreliable.cleaned and recapped it, nothing, no change
I second this; I use electrolytics on the logic board (the Wurth Electronik ones from Mouser) and haven’t had any problems. I’ve done six now. Actually I love the PowerBook 100; I’m so much more successful with those than I am with other failed PowerBooks. Especially the 20MB hard drives - a drop of UV-cured Bondic resin stops the head arm getting stuck on the magnet, and away they go.I don’t know enough to know if that’s the case here but I thought it worth a shot so recapped one with direct replacement aluminium electrolytics and this works perfectly and reliably. I have now recapped another 4 logics the same way and all have worked so maybe they something to consider. I know they may not have the same longevity as tantalum but on the plus side, they seem to be a lot cheaper.
No need to adjust the contrast as it ‘warms up’ now.
Cheers, yes, I’d read that and can now confirm that’s my experienceWith some honourable exceptions, MLCCs have poor temperature stability, so it's not surprising you'd have to twiddle constrast as it warmed up,
Haha, thanksNow that is creative bodge work, bravo!
do you have the list at all? I have 2 pb100 would love to try. I used tantalums but no go. Thanks for any info!I’ve recapped a whole bunch of PB100 recently and they all had the backlit blank screen issue. The first one which I recapped with tantalum caps still had the same symptom when I retested but weirdly worked perfectly the next day. But a few days later it started randomly doing it again. It is still unreliable.
I read online that tantalum caps are not functionally identical to the original aluminium electrolytic caps as things like frequency response vary so in some circuits they are not suitable replacements. I don’t know enough to know if that’s the case here but I thought it worth a shot so recapped one with direct replacement aluminium electrolytics and this works perfectly and reliably. I have now recapped another 4 logics the same way and all have worked so maybe they something to consider. I know they may not have the same longevity as tantalum but on the plus side, they seem to be a lot cheaper.