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Original Apple Scanner Refurbishment Guide

Johnnya101

Well-known member
I have never really seen any thread describe the process of refurbishing (heck, even using) the original 8-bit Apple Scanner. Apparently they are pretty rare or uncommon?

This thread aims to change that.

Pictured below is my original Apple Scanner in its yellowed, beat up, and dirty glory after being left out for probably two decades in a shed:
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(I hope it works after all this)

To start, first (or I guess you can do this after the following, it doesn't really matter) flip it over and remove the large plastic plate:
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Next you can remove this round plastic cover (I don't know exactly why it is here (yet)):
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Now, remove the main board by removing the four outer screws and unplugging the three plugs:
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(Look, no awful leaking SMD caps!)
NOTE: While removing, DO NOT pull up just yet! You must first unplug this white flat cable:
20220116_124817.jpg

Now, once that board is removed, you can flip it back over. First, remove the top scanner cover by using two hands, and, using your thumbs, press the two rectangular buttons on each side of the inner bottom of the top cover. Lift up and off:
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Now, unscrew the three screws located on the back top, where the cover hinges are. This will release the top section of the scanner. Simply lift the back part, while pushing in the two plastic tabs towards the front of the scan bed on the side of the scanner (If you look through the glass you will see the tabs). Then, lift up and it will release the front three tabs. You won't break or snap any tabs, just be gentle.
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And this is what is underneath. You can see the power supply to the side (with more caps...)
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This is where part 1 leaves off. My mission is to totally take it apart, clean/disinfect (who knows what's on it), retrobrite, and totally recap everything so it will be reliable and safe to use.

PS: Anyone got a parts keyboard laying around? I have an ADB Cutting Edge keyboard missing a key.

PSS: Here's the Color Onescanner manual that is very similar: https://www.applerepairmanuals.com/the_manuals_are_in_here/Color_OneScanner.pdf

Next up... my Laserwriter NT that will have its rollers resurfaced, recapped, retrobrited, etc.
 

chelseayr

Well-known member
johnnya I was a little curious and had to look at the manual, I can't be sure but could it be that the round plastic plate was suppose to lead to a manual 120/240v selector (alike to the more exposed red slider switch on rear of at/atx psu's) and perhaps yours seem to be blank inside because your scanner is the 120v-only instead of the 120/240v-dual version? removing the transformer assembly on your scanner would give away whether it has any kind mechanical connection to that bottom hole or not in that case

edit: go to the very last page in manual aka the exploded view, look for 'cover, voltage select' text near very bottom and follow that into the diagram .. then note that it corresponds to the transformer's location
 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
johnnya I was a little curious and had to look at the manual, I can't be sure but could it be that the round plastic plate was suppose to lead to a manual 120/240v selector (alike to the more exposed red slider switch on rear of at/atx psu's) and perhaps removing the transformer assembly on your scanner would give away whether it has any kind mechanical connection to that bottom hole or not?
I saw that after I posted in that manual as well, it looks like a selector knob would fit in there if I wanted to make it an international model. I'll see more of it when I continue the next time.
 

joshc

Well-known member
The bulbs go on these and I couldn't find a replacement. I owned one and it was donated to another 68kMLA member who also had one.

Good luck with the restoration.
 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
The bulbs go on these and I couldn't find a replacement. I owned one and it was donated to another 68kMLA member who also had one.

Good luck with the restoration.
Just quickly looking online, it looks like some scanners can be converted to LED

Of course that would be only if I can't find a bulb. It seems that it would probably need a 12-24V florescent bulb, but of course I don't know what voltage until I look into it more. Knowing apple with their printers its probably based off some other HP or whatever scanner.

Also, I think I saw the Onescanner color bulbs being sold. Is the only difference that they are white instead of green? The manual says do not use the original scanner bulb in a color one, I would think only because it is green and would affect colors.
 
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Johnnya101

Well-known member
May as well add to this so anyone in the future looking at this knows.

The bulb currently installed is a Toshiba FL8R-G54/70.

This SHOULD mean Toshiba FL(orescent)8(watts)R(ound?)-G(reen??)5(/8 inch)4(???)-70(Kelvin Temperature, bright blue/greenish light 7000k?). I'll update when I have time to do some more research.
 
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Johnnya101

Well-known member
Alright, so I had some time to look at this. I am pretty confident that these scanners require a T5 8 watt 12 inch 4000k tube, such as https://www.amazon.com/Bell-Fluorescent-Tube-Inch-840-4000k/dp/B00DCXRZ96. I don't think they require anything too special because all the light does is illuminate the paper, and color/kelvin wise shouldn't matter too too much for black and white. My tube looks good, but I can't test it until everything is back together. I will probably end up ordering a replacement to test.

The ones on ebay look like they will fit, but they are 6500k for the color scanner.

Found the correct guide: https://www.applerepairmanuals.com/the_manuals_are_in_here/Apple_Scanner_Products.pdf. Interesting that this manual suggests to remove the cover by using a screwdriver instead of pressing inward!
 
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Johnnya101

Well-known member
Next step: Remove the metal bracket/cage by removing the two screws on either end.
20220118_135748.jpg

Here is where the manual and I differ. The manual suggests to loosen the gear tension screw and slide the gear inward to remove the belt. This can be done, I would think you should mark where the gear was. I simply removed the little C type lock washer thing on the top of the gear and slid it off.
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Then you can move the carriage to the center, where the cutout is on the opposite rail. (Not pictured: Removing the lamp+holder by unscrewing the one screw and sliding the whole thing out)
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Then remove both rail brackets. After, simply lift the entire assembly up. NOTE: Remove flat ribbon cable from optical assembly before totally removing it!
20220118_175453.jpg
(The manual says there should be a ferrite bead here, only on the 8 bit models. This is not present on my scanner. I wonder if Apple deemed it unneeded after the manual was printed?)
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Remove this metal cover with holes.
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Then remove the other carriage rail by removing the three screws. Lift up and out.
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Now remove the one screw on the power block cover.
20220118_180225.jpg

That's where I will leave off until tomorrow. So far, pretty easy. The rail on this is super gummed up, so if anyone has one of these scanners, you should really take it apart and lube/recap everything.

There are three total boards for recapping. The logic board, optical board (inside optical head), and power supply. Nothing is leaking, The big cap in the power supply has a slight bulge. There doesn't seem to be any burn marks, blown fuses, etc, so I hope this will work when all redone!

As for the lamp, I think I finally figured it out.
Toshiba FL8R-G54/70
FL(uorescent) 8(watt) R(Type round?) - G5(mini bi-pin base) 4 (Color?? Kelvin (in k?)) / 70(degree aperture)

Luckily, these lamps are very easily found for very cheap. Following this article published in 2001 (https://www.techrepublic.com/article/unlock-the-secrets-of-scanner-technology/), it says the first scanners used regular old fluorescent bulbs. I think this qualifies as a (very) early scanner (1988 ish?), so it should use a regular fluorescent. The only thing that is NOT easily found is a bulb that is green, and a bulb with a 70 degree aperture. For color, I think one could buy a light color correcting green gel cover and wrap the bulb. For the aperture angle, I suppose you could wrap half with reflective foil. I think the light color does matter because the manual states these scanners have a green dropout. I don't know if this is a low kelvin green or a green green until it is back together.
 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
(Note: I mistakenly called this an 8bit scanner. It is not. It's a 4bit.)

Now, remove the power supply by unscrewing the perimeter screws and unplugging all connectors. The manual states you can remove it before the power switch section, but I had to remove both together.
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You will have to remove the one lighter colored small screw here as well, also the grounding bracket that goes across the bottom piece held in by two brass colored screws.
20220118_183916.jpg
Then unscrew the transformer and set aside.
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Now unscrew the four screws holding in this plate/cover, lift off.
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Remove this switch if you didn't already.
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Also remove the wire bundles from the clips. Get a flathead and kind of pry the clip away from the "teeth". Be gentle!
Now you can remove all the wires. Make note of how they are routed. The center ribbon cable is glued down. You must gently release the cover plate by squeezing in the two clips from the bottom, and gently lift/rip it up and out.
20220119_094005.jpg
If you did it right, this is what should be left. I believe this is one of the first of these to be totally taken apart recently and documented online.
20220119_094816.jpg

Now all three boards will be sent out to Amiga of Rochester to get cleaned and recapped. I will be retrobriting all plastic soon, updates will be posted here.

As for the bulb, my thoughts on a new replacement would be to try a ballast compatible frosted LED T5 8W 12" lamp, and cover with a green filter. Said bulbs can be found for around $20 a 4 pack. I may try it once this is put together. I was also able to source the original Apple A9M0338 replacement lamp just in case. I have reached out to Toshiba as well to see if these are still made, or if they can at least provide specs.
 
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