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Modern PSU for the SE/30

JDW

Well-known member
Yes, the Silenx IXP-34-16 is the fan I currently use:



 I talked a lot about in the past, but sadly many of those posts were deleted when the forum’s hard drives crashed. 

Specs are one thing, but putting your hand close to the fan as air moves through it is yet another.  Based on the airflow detected by my hand, it feels that the stock Elina fan moves more air than my Silenx.   I would therefore encourage you to do some before/after tests to see which one you physically “feel“ moves more air. 

 

JDW

Well-known member
Here's my video on SE/30 (and SE) power supply replacement:




Special thanks to @joethezombie and also to @superjer2000 and @Von and all other contributors to this thread!  Without you, I would still be procrastinating that important task!

 

Von

Well-known member
I'm about 5 minutes in however I need some sleep and will catch the rest tomorrow.  Looks great so far!

 

ants

Well-known member
Thanks everyone for your collective knowledge on this project. Here is my attempt:

PSX_20190207_225448.jpgPSX_20190207_225436.jpg

Voltages all look perfect, but tomorrow I'll try the smoke test in my Mac!

I soldered directly onto the outer pins of the power socket on the Seasonic to prevent opening it up - and then I just glued the Seasonic in place with some epoxy glue... lazy!

If anyone has reason to believe that I'll burn my house down, please let me know!

 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
Kind of off topic. Anyone here that has rebuilt a PSU that would be willing to rebuild one for me? In the US?

There would definitely be a demand for a service like this. Many PSUs are starting to fail at this point of time.

 
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JDW

Well-known member
Kind of off topic. Anyone here that has rebuilt a PSU that would be willing to rebuild one for me? In the US?

There would definitely be a demand for a service like this. Many PSUs are starting to fail at this point of time.
I wanted to wait a day after seeing your post to see if anyone would step up to the plate.  Since no one has, I will say a few words.  You did say "in the US" which is why I cannot do the job for you (it really would be cost prohibitive in light of 2-way international shipping), seeing I am in Japan.  But actually I can help YOU do the job to either recap your SONY PSU (hopefully you have a SONY not Astec) or install the SEASONIC in your PSU chassis.  I have YouTube videos on both which are detailed enough for anyone to follow, even people without a lot of soldering experience.  Gaining experience with the PSU is a good idea because it can help you debug and possibly fix other issues which may crop up in the future.  I'm working on an Analog Board (for SE and SE/30) recap video right now.  I do this in my free time (and I make no money on YouTube either), so it may still be another few weeks before I can finish it.  Best wishes to you, Johnny!

 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
Yeah, mentioned US specifically because I know a few members in this thread are outside of the US, and that would make shipping problematic.

I've got a Sony. I'm starting to get horizontal lines moving downward on the display. Faint, but noticeable. It didn't happen with my recapped PSU (which bit the dust for an unrelated reason a month ago). It's probably the filter caps starting to go showing the mains frequency. I'm thinking of just swapping in a new PSU rather than deal with the old and failing ones (30 year old power supplies... ). I'm kind of scared to mess with something as big as a power supply for right now. Keyboard repair I can do, maybe some minor analog board work, but PSUs are way too much to attempt.

Thanks for your offer though!

But, if anyone here in the US would be willing to rebuild my PSU (or replace I guess could be said), I'm willing to pay!

Edit

Should also ask the expert, @JDW , what would you recommend for an SE/30 with an Ethernet card that would have light use every week? New PSU or recap? My last one had a bad transistor, and I'd hate to have that happen again...

 
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ants

Well-known member
@JDW your YouTube video really helped me and was very entertaining. However, as a novice solderer myself, I was sweating bullets when soldering the high-voltage wiring to the PSU. When you also consider the wiring for the rocker switch, there's a lot of wires to deal with in close proximity - all enclosed in a metal box!

In Australia we're on a 240v power supply and I was nervous the first time I powered on my assembled PSU. We have safety switches in our home, but not everyone does.

I think the point I'm trying to make is that more so than other Mac hardware projects, this one is probably the most dangerous and carries a risk of electrocution. This project is not for everyone.

 

JDW

Well-known member
I've got a Sony. I'm starting to get horizontal lines moving downward on the display. Faint, but noticeable. It didn't happen with my recapped PSU (which bit the dust for an unrelated reason a month ago). It's probably the filter caps starting to go showing the mains frequency. I'm thinking of just swapping in a new PSU rather than deal with the old and failing ones (30 year old power supplies... ). I'm kind of scared to mess with something as big as a power supply for right now. Keyboard repair I can do, maybe some minor analog board work, but PSUs are way too much to attempt.

...what would you recommend for an SE/30 with an Ethernet card that would have light use every week? New PSU or recap? My last one had a bad transistor, and I'd hate to have that happen again...


You say you have a Sony, which implies "Sony PSU," and then you mentioned your "recapped PSU."  So you have a PSU other than your SONY PSU that someone recapped for you?  Was that an Astec PSU?  And that was the PSU you mentioned had a "bad transistor"?  

If that other failed PSU is an Astec, they do "bite the dust" and I would recommend swapping it for a Sony version.  But if your failed PSU was a Sony, it may be worthwhile to replace the bad transistor, assuming you know which one it is and assuming your are absolutely sure that one transistor is the root problem.

Your light use case warrants only a recapped Sony PSU.  The Sony will more than suffice.  You really don't need the SEASONIC in your application.  But of course, if you had a SEASONIC PSU, it would serve you well too.  Which PSU requires the most work is something you must decide after watching my SEASONIC video and SONY PSU recap video.  Both take time and thought.  There's less soldering overall with the SEASONIC, but I would suspect most of the SONY PSU's out there merely need recaps, and it's kind of a waste to trash them, sell them for parts or merely throw them in a closet.

@JDW your YouTube video really helped me and was very entertaining. However, as a novice solderer myself, I was sweating bullets when soldering the high-voltage wiring to the PSU. When you also consider the wiring for the rocker switch, there's a lot of wires to deal with in close proximity - all enclosed in a metal box! ...[SIZE=11pt]this one is probably the most dangerous and carries a risk of electrocution. This project is not for everyone.[/SIZE]


True, but there are dangers even when working with the SEASONIC.  There are dangers even opening the back case!  How much of a danger depends on the person opening the back of the case and tinkering inside.  No doubt there are some people who would wait until a rainy day to take their SE/30 outside, plug it in, then open the back case and start tinkering, but I suspect those types are few. :)   Even so, I agree that some people COULD accidentally shock themselves, especially in countries that use higher mains voltages.  More likely, an inexperienced tinkerer would just end up frying a board due to an epic blunder.  Goodness knows I've done that, and even recently no less!  Ah... my poor 40MHz Daystar Turbo 040! :-(  

You do need to discharge the CRT for safety whenever working inside the case.  People who forget that are not necessarily in danger of their life because the bleeder resistor will usually drain the CRT pretty fast and those resistors aren't failing left and right either.  Also, most vintage computer owners know not to touch the back of the CRT yoke (where all those scary copper wires are).  So the end result is we don't hear about a lot of people getting shocked when working in these machines.  I think it would be fun to poll our 68kMLA members to see if anyone has even been shocked.  You need to be careful, but it's not quite as scary as some make it out to be.

I personally do TRIPLE-CHECKS when I recap anything, and that is especially true of the PSU.  You do NOT want to solder in even one cap with the polarity reversed.  You most likely won't die, but the bigger the cap the bigger the explosion when the cap vents through its top.  The cap itself might even fly off the PCB like a rocket -- I've seen that.  For those of you who are very worried, I would recommend eye protection.  Eye-glasses are OK, but I'm talking about the polycarbonate kind that you would wear when using a spinning string cutter outdoors to protect your eyes from flying debris.  And I personally would not test a PSU on mains voltages that don't have a known-good breaker.

These recapping and PSU-replacement projects aren't for everyone, but it's a fact that most people are too frightened to try something new.  I don't want to push a scared person too close to a cliff, but at the same time, some of us do need a little prodding to get started with something that could benefit us down the line.  Yes, there are dangers, and one must be very cautious, but with care, patience, thought, a slow pace, and a detailed guide, I believe that many of our members could do these jobs if they set their mind to it.  That is why I made those YouTube videos, to give people a little assistance and show them what's involved every step of the way.  

 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
Thanks for your helpful reply.

So I first got my SE/30, and it had a recapped logic board. I took out the analog board AND the original Sony PSU to both be recapped. Two years later, last December (2018), I was noticing video jitter sometimes when cold. It was also throwing random disk errors. Techknight told me it was probably a bad transistor in the PSU (Again, it was a Sony). I bought a "new" Sony PSU from ebay. That fixed the jitter, but now Im getting lines from the mains from the frequency of the current from the filter caps (Id guess) starting to lose capacitance. My old recapped Sony was traded in exchange for something to a member on here for testing purposes. So, I guess Ill go with a recap if nobody steps up to rebuild mine.

I have no idea if the old one had a bad transistor, and wasnt too keen on opening it up and testing individual components since in my case it wasnt something I could replicate or measure without it being on. It wont be trashed or anything, just probably be used for parts (And hey, its got all new caps too. lol)

 
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JDW

Well-known member
I took out the analog board AND the original Sony PSU to both be recapped. Two years later, last December (2018), I was noticing video jitter sometimes when cold. It was also throwing random disk errors. Techknight told me it was probably a bad transistor in the PSU (Again, it was a Sony)... My old recapped Sony was traded in exchange for something to a member on here for testing purposes.
Thank you for the details.  So your original Sony PSU which had the jitters was indeed recapped, it seems.  OK.  I still am curious as to the root cause of the jitters, so if you could PM me with the name of the member who took that PSU from you, I will PM them and ask what their testing revealed. I'm very curious!

Recapping always carries the risk that after the job is done and done well, something else on the PCB could be a problem that wasn't detectable prior to the recap.  However, the Sony PSU's tend to be built very well, so I would say it's highly unlikely a recap of a second Sony PSU would result in similar problems.  Even so, if you are worried about that possibility, however rare it would be, then your best recourse would be to purchase the SEASONIC and follow my video on that.

 

ants

Well-known member
@Crutch your solution of wiring the soft power of the Seasonic to the original switch is very elegant - I wish I had of read your post in more detail before I did my upgrade!

My Mac works great with the new PSU, but alas I still can't get my Daystar and Ethernet cards to work at the same time - I still get weird screen artefacts and system crashes. @Crutch did your new PSU resolve your similar problems?

I guess my next port of call is to recap the analog board!

 

JDW

Well-known member
When mulling PSU options for the SE and SE/30, bear in mind the stock PSU is fanless, while the SEASONIC has a fan.  It's not too loud and certainly not something you'd notice if you have a spinning platter HDD inside.  But if you have a SCSI2SD inside and a quiet replacement for the ELINA stock case fan, your machine would then be quiet enough to where you would hear the SEASONIC fan when it kicks on.  People with no PDS cards or only one would get by with a SONY PSU recap (assuming there are no other problems other than bad caps), and you would get a perfectly quiet PSU too.

 

Crutch

Well-known member
@ants thanks for asking - sadly, no! There are many happy consequences of my PSU upgrade (brighter screen, general satisfaction with the universe), but sadly a setup that works with my Daystar 040 accelerator plus Asante MacCon isn’t one of them. My Daystar card - which I have noticed runs very hot even on its own (do they always?) - only seems to last about 5 minutes when the MacCon is added before I see a random freeze or bomb. 

That said, my Diimo 50 MHz 030 plus the same MacCon works flawlessly (and much cooler, and not noticeably slower with my 7.5.5 setup) - so that’s my everyday setup for now. My analog board is recapped, also. 

 

JDW

Well-known member
@Crutch Did you measure voltage levels (specifically, the 5V line) at the Floppy connector and at your internal HDD power connector when you had your Turbo040 inside?  I ask because in my experience, prior to my epic blunder which caused my Turbo040 to stop working, I would only get freezes with the Turbo040 when there were software incompatibles.  That's a lot of software that just locks up with an 040 but which works fine with an 030 processor.

 

superjer2000

Well-known member
@Crutch your solution of wiring the soft power of the Seasonic to the original switch is very elegant - I wish I had of read your post in more detail before I did my upgrade!
That is how I wired mine as well. The only downside though is I'm still hesitant to leave the computer plugged in when I'm not using it. If I had wired the PSU AC power to the physical switch I probably wouldn't think anything of it as turning the Mac off would mean it's off, full stop. 

 

JDW

Well-known member
...If I had wired the PSU AC power to the physical switch I probably wouldn't think anything of it as turning the Mac off would mean it's off, full stop. 
That's how I have my SEASONIC wired.  When the mechanical switch is flipped OFF, the PSU is 100% OFF and has no possibility of ever going ON.  I didn't think anything negative about doing it that way since that is basically how the stock PSU works.

 

ants

Well-known member
There's definitely pros and cons of both methods. I think for a novice like me, wiring the soft power would have been easier and less scary. I guess I'm just paranoid!

Although I was wondering how hard it would be to get the soft power running to the power key on the keyboard?!?

 
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