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Is this classic an analog adjustment

imactheknife

Well-known member
I recapped a classic analog board not knowing if it worked. I have gotten it to turn on and boot. I am getting like shadow lines across screen from icons or open windows. Is this an adjustment issue or something with cap job?
 

joshc

Well-known member
I can’t really see what you mean on that photo, can you take a few more or maybe a video?
 

Byrd

Well-known member
Adjust focus, brightness cut off - see Classic service manual for pot adjustment at the back of the unit
 

imactheknife

Well-known member
Looks worse today lol.. really hate analog boards

tried adjusting stuff as per service manual, unfortunately nothing improved anything.
 

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joshc

Well-known member
What tool are you adjusting the pot with? A lot of things will fit but not actually turn the pot.
 

Byrd

Well-known member
Yes they can but note you need to use a non-conductive tool to adjust the pot; I find a wooden skewer slightly filed/copped on the end works well.
 

chiptripper

Well-known member
What voltages are you getting?

I often have trouble with PP1 on these boards, a good clean with IPA and a turn back and forth goes a long way. Make sure to get voltage back where it needs to be and use non-conductive tools.
 

imactheknife

Well-known member
What voltages are you getting?

I often have trouble with PP1 on these boards, a good clean with IPA and a turn back and forth goes a long way. Make sure to get voltage back where it needs to be and use non-conductive tools.
Was getting proper voltages but will check again
 

chiptripper

Well-known member
Got a closer look at your pics, looks like horizontal smearing. I'm not a CRT expert by any stretch but I understand it can be caused by interference, poor connections, bad ground, or a failing CRT. Could also happen if you used high ESR caps, but I doubt that's the prob.

Do you have a working Classic or Classic II? Process of elimination?
 

imactheknife

Well-known member
Got a closer look at your pics, looks like horizontal smearing. I'm not a CRT expert by any stretch but I understand it can be caused by interference, poor connections, bad ground, or a failing CRT. Could also happen if you used high ESR caps, but I doubt that's the prob.

Do you have a working Classic or Classic II? Process of elimination?
I have a classic and classic ii recapped boards. Both result in same thing. My other analog board has issues too. Will take apart and snap a few pics of caps. They could be an issue? I double checked my caps so none were reversed. Made sure no shorts that i could see. I didn’t know the state of either analog boards as i recapped analog first while trying to figure out logic board issues. Then other classic and classic ii’s came into my life with working analog boards so i could test my previous logic boards. Once i knew i had a good working logic board i went back to the original analog boards i recapped and found out they don’t want to play lol.. well, they do, just need to figure out the issue… appreciate your input
 

chiptripper

Well-known member
Caps might cause an issue if you somehow chose wildly out of spec (high impedence / high ESR) for the output section of the analog board, but I think that's really unlikely because even general purpose caps should work OK. More likely it's a bad CRT, that's my guess anyway. But the only way to tell is by swapping components to isolate the flaw. (The Classic II AB will work on the Classic, but not the other way around AFAIK.)
 

imactheknife

Well-known member
Oh wow, didnt know that classic AB wont work with classic ii, thanks for that!. Will see what happens this weekend. Havent been able to get back to them as other projects have taken over lol
 
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