So, just to clear things up.
There where no "liquid crystals pouring out", it was the adhesive pouring out.
And while thinking about the aforementioned crack, I wonder if is there a relation between the angle of the polarizer and the angle of the crack on the film.
That could mean this panel...
I've bought a "Polarizer Film Angle Tester" from aliexpress (~10€) - I'm hoping it will help me solve the angle question regarding this PowerBook and many other screens.
But alas, this project is on hold right now - this retrocomputing stuff is a slow process for me ;-)
As for prices, I've...
I'm so relieved having discovered my damaged LCDs can be fixed!
I've noticed several sellers of polarizer film mention degree angles - does anyone know the angle for the MB 1xxs?
Has anyone bought and applied this polarizer film?
SHARP LM 64P58 assembly removed from the backlight unit:
The...
Ok, I just noticed this subject was discussed in a more recent thread:
That's Google fault! I just got here from a google search - don't judge me :lol:
EDIT 1: Thanks, PB145B! :)
Good news everyone!
So I had this damaged PowerBook 160 LCD lying around and decided to investigate following PB145B suggestion.
I removed it from the reflector bed and looking at its transparency, the outlook was even worse than previously thought.
...
I’m having this issue of “lcd rot” in many systems. Symptoms vary - from cracked panels to fungi-like patterns
first it was a Digital HiNote 486 laptop - it was carefully stored in a horizontal shelf without any other weight on top - the screen cracked al liquid cristals came pouring out.
Some...
What a coincidence!
I was given a "generic" usb floppy drive just today, but my problem was the opposite - I just couldn't make it to work on a windows 10 pc (no drivers/device not recognized... the usual windowy party).
As soon as I connected it to the G3 keyboard (what can I say, it was...
So it's a tray-loading (just saw the photos..)
I think you should start with the neck board (I can't remember the name) and remove all cables/connectors.
You'll find a small plastic 'button' you must press to release the red cable.
Then go to the video board (the one you have on its side -...
Every electrolytic capacitor will eventually need to be replaced (link).
But of all seven iMac G3 I own, none needs replacing - maybe in five years time.
I have made a thorough capacitor list for the rev. A and B tray-loading - the list is huge! 57 in both analog and video boards and 11 on the...
I guess the foam that support the center tweeters/magnets (?) is gone, turned to gooey mush.
I happened to all my slot-loading iMacs - I had one intact but as soon as I installed 10.4, the startup tune just blew the foam.
You can see more here...
Could this be the phenomenon known as “Coil Whine” or “Coil Squeal”?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coil_noise
http://www.ukgamingcomputers.co.uk/capacitor-squeal-coil-whine-explained-a-63.html
I’ll try to get some hot glue over the inductor(s) and see if it dampens the noise.
Another fun fact I have come to know about these iMacs.
Sometimes, after some random operation, it stops working and it just there, buzzing.
You press the power button and it just makes a different buzz while you are pressing it.
You lay it to rest unconnected and in the following day...
Hi
I also have this buzzing in all my iMac G3s TL when on stan-by.
It is coming from the Power Supply board and it starts as soon as I plug it to the mains.
Something is vibrating and emitting a high pitch sound that is hard to pinpoint even with the board uncovered.
Maybe a thermal scan...
Hello Marcelv
Thanks for your input!
Unfortunately I've been away from this project and was unable to properly reply to your post.
I'm preparing a list of components to buy and I'll be verifying these values in the meantime.
Thanks!