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I’ve already abided by the first rule of vintage Mac repair: Recap, recap, recap! All of the caps have been replaced. I don’t disagree that it’s a broken trace, but I can’t find any good schematics for the Mac II board. The one originally from Gamba is a little difficult for me to follow...

I haven't looked at the links you provided yet. However, I did jump start the PSU with a single 3.6v battery and the computer did power on. I hear an audible "clunk" or "click" coming from the speaker, but there are no startup or death chimes. I reseated the CPU and MMU. It seems the MMU was not...

I have not. Truthfully, I don’t know what you mean by jump starting the PSU. Why wouldn’t there be voltage present when plugged into an outlet? I would think there would be 12v or 5v standing. And, last question, do the PRAM batteries have anything to do with this? I know without them, the Mac...

With the board recapped and new PRAM batteries installed, the Mac II will still not attempt to power on. Using a multimeter, I probed all the power supply pins. According to this web article, pin 1 is +12v, 2 through 6 are +5v, 7 through 12 are Ground. All of the positive voltage pins read 0V...

@Sunoo, check your messages.

Do you have schematics for the SE/30 logic board? It’s very possible your board has a rotted trace or two. I had to probe mine with a meter to test continuity between a few chips after I discovered my SE/30 wouldn’t boot with more than 16MB of memory. 

Today I received a Macintosh II in the mail. It was gifted to me, and the previous owner stated that it didn't boot up. Knowing that this is likely attributed to dead PRAM batteries, I thought I might be able to revive it and have another toy to add to the collection. Unfortunately, as I got to...

Sweet find! I got my Quicksilver 2002 (933 MHz) as part of a lot of Power Mac G4's. I think I've had it for 4 or 5 years. I've since added a zip drive and an OWC Mercury CPU (clocked at 1.2 GHz). I can't remember where I picked up my zip bezel from. We Love Macs has the zip bezel (new), but it...

Count me in.

A circle cut from an anti-static bag will work, too.

That is correct. Make note of it's current position before you make any adjustments.

I believe the magnets attached around the yoke are used to adjust the corners/edges. If you look at the yoke from the rear of the Mac, you'll probably need to adjust the one at 1 'o clock. All it takes is a gentle twist one way or the other. Look at the screen as you twist to find out which way...

I said this before...

Ethernet-over-power adapters can be finicky. The best way to begin troubleshooting a network issue is to do a series of ping tests. The command on OS X terminal is 'ping x.x.x.x' where each 'x' is the IP address of the device you're trying to verify connection to. If your default gateway IP...

No need to apologize. Just wanted to make sure you address one problem before spending time and money fixing other components that may not be broken.

Earlier in the thread, you said the tube had a faint orange glow. What makes you certain the CRT isn't powering on? On a very basic level, if the Mac doesn't boot, nothing will be drawn on the screen. One thing at a time here... Recap the logic board first. If the problem persists, only then...

I forgot to look at my board last night. If no one else chimes in with the value, I'll update this evening when I get home. I assume it would be the same on a regular SE board.

I can just hear techknight right now: "For the love of God, recap the logic board!" So, to reiterate: start with recapping the logic board. If that doesn't resolve the issue, then begin troubleshooting elsewhere.

These boards have a jumper or resistor that needs to be changed to allow for different memory configurations. Most later revision SE boards had a jumper. See this page for more info: http://www.ccadams.org/se/ram.html

No! The Maxell bomb has yet another victim. I can check my SE board when I get home this evening to see what C10 is. You should be able to see uF and voltage rating on the cap itself. Digikey or Mouser will have replacements. Get that board cleaned, and fast! Be gentle and check for corroded...