My first thought is to check the LCD cable, especially the connector. When the machine is on, try and put some pressure in different positions on the Flat-Flex connector on the Motherboard. My reasoning for it being the cable is it's the easiest thing that can go bad unless the display itself...
In addition to what was mentioned here, just about any of the cards mentioned here will all be overclockable quite significantly especially the ATI ones. So if the price difference is quite substantial from one card to the next, you can always find a solid guide on volt modding (which is...
You're completely right.. Most of the modern (Atleast LiPo) cells I've seen have built in over/under charge circuitry. So at least the Battery itself would be fine, but I'm not at all sure how a lead acid charging circuit differs from any other like with a NiMH etc. Recharging could be handled...
Should be doable. At that time, there wasn't any kind of power controller for the battery cells itself. So, you can just replace the cells as long as it's the same voltage and be good to go. I'm sure you can hack mostly anything you want in there.
The thing literally had everything perfectly sealed and unused when I bought it, The sleeve had never even been opened for those covers.
I'll take a look and see which card it is and report back for you. IF you have any pictures of what I'm looking for I'd appreciate it.
Is it located right...
So I'm curious as to what kind of Time Table we're talking about here for a first revision physical prototype?
Also, are you planning for the board house to do all/some (QFP/BGA's) of the component level work, or are you planning on doing that yourself/selling as a kit?
I'd stick with the Wallstreet, as it's the most modern of your options. Plus you're going to pay a collectors premium on anything older than the Wallstreet, as it's probably the most economically feasible option. There are a few FDD expansion modules on eBay for it too: ...
Unless the software you're running actually uses the FPU, you probably wont see any difference.
You'd be best comparing a 68040 vs a 68LC040, that would pretty much give you an idea as the only difference between he two is the FPU.
I just look at the price, I was genuinely surprised at how...
Very interesting, thank you for posting that.
Suppose you're right, out of the mountains of hard disks I've got, all of them from ~1998 (Earliest one's that work still) are much smaller than I remember.
I guess I've forgotten the fine details over the while as my Western Digital Caviar 34000...
Everyone in here has pretty much given you the whole spiel. But, the primary reason the SD adapters are slow dang slow is because of the Bus Controllers used in the adapters are almost always capped at ~20MB/s bandwidth (Not sure if it's a Firmware issue, or the Chip/implementation itself is so...
Mine here doesn't have any computers either. Not sure what the policy is, but after months of no success I've given up.
Now, when it comes to peripherals and other cables etc, that might find itself more evident. There always seems to be dozens of keyboards and other odd-ends.
Don't care what anyone says, that G5 is going to be a much more enjoyable experience as far as performance is concerned. Especially with web browsing, you will see a stark difference.
The only time you're going to really get ahead of a Single G5 system, with a Single G4 (Even the latest), is if...
Of course not, but if we lived by that logic we would still be in caves.
I read that article you posted, as you can see for the most part that actually worked. Keep in mind, he changed the Crystal for the entire system. Most of those problems wouldn't prevail if we went my suggested route and...
That 68030 is socketed in the SE/30 isn't it? If it is, you could easily do it without anything crazy in a number of ways. It would only be snipping one pin either way, or insulating it.
Totally doable, and possible. You will need to replace the Crystal for the XTAL frequency on the CPU. I believe (Correct me if I'm wrong) the CPU runs at a 1:1 ratio with the XTAL source.
Problem is I don't know what's going to happen to whatever else derives their signals from that clock...
Only real economical option would be 3D-Printed using whatever materials you wanted. An actual Injection Mold assembly run would be a fortune. Even in bulk of 500 after all the machining of the Molds etc, you'd probably be looking at least ~$30-$40 a piece pure cost.
While they are on the more uncommon side, they pop up on the Bay every blue moon. Usually go for around ~$40.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Apple-IIc-monitor-stand-with-box-used-/272418868598?hash=item3f6d6e0d76:g:kfEAAOSwZJBYBt9h