I should have a photo somewhere. I'm planning on sorting through the myriad of HDDs sitting in my top drawer at some point this week, so I'll post it if I find it - from memory it's just E but I'm not certain!
It did indeed exist, I had one for a while (unless it was faked somehow). At first I thought it was just a Plus with the lettering removed, but there was zero evidence of any chemicals being used where the letters used to be and the surface finish was identical to everything surrounding it...
I've yet to see an LC575 locally that doesn't have at least one crack in the case, they're usually chipped on both top corners (or worse). It seems to be easier to find a good condition CC chassis in Australia. Also, I think many people prefer the size of the CC, the 575 is a lot larger in...
That would make sense, thanks. I've been having trouble with a Mac II that often refuses to boot until I've removed both CR2032s and the power cable, left it for 60secs, then put everything back in again. Right now it's not even booting after doing that...
If it helps, I sold a recapped 575 board in November last year with a full XC68040RC33M, 32MB RAM, and a laser cut clear acrylic CC back panel for $390 AUD + international postage.
The board was in great condition with minor tarnishing on the rear ports, absolutely spotless PCB without any...
I'm glad my thread helped, this same problem was driving me crazy too! A friend suggested that I drop the cage as well but I didn't get around to trying that after I solved the problem by using another cage. Glad to hear that it works to demagnetise it.
I'm not sure what you mean by locked or unlocked, is that a software thing or are you talking about the write-protect notch?
Regardless, I managed to get the internal drive working perfectly! I tested with the external drive some more and realised that without the internal drive or cage, the...
Completely understandable, I'm glad you told me about that though. I put the 512Ke back together last night and now with the cover on and everything, the external drive is happily booting both 400K and 800K floppies while the internal tries for a while and fails with one of several errors...
I had considered that, but unless the drive is sensitive to a CRT with a millimetre or so of variation, it's unlikely to be the problem otherwise the Mac would have been designed very differently. It's in essentially the same position as it was from the factory.
That also still wouldn't explain...
I picked up a free Mac 512Ke with extended keyboard and mouse 6 months ago and have only just now gotten around to messing with it. When I first got it home, it powered on to a question mark floppy, so naturally I was ecstatic to have just been given a free working Mac and put it on my shelf to...
I swapped the monitor's tube into a Color Classic and the convergence was perfect, so I disassembled it further and discovered half of the caps on the board are leaking. Replacements are on the way, in the meantime I'm going to see how I can mount the tube in an SE case.
It's running in 640 x 480 because that's what I set the ColorServer card and VGA adapter to. The monitor was advertised as SVGA but I haven't tested it with 800 x 600 yet, mainly because it has severe convergence issues and I was unable to adequately adjust the color rings after trying for 2...
It's funny that you're talking about Color Classic tubes...
My colour SVGA CRT arrived today, and it turns out it uses the exact same Trinitron tube as the Color Classics do. I'm not sure that it's going to mount properly in the SE/30 front panel without me cutting away some plastic, so I...
Okay, an addendum to my response: with just the UniMacfly on the CRT in the above photos, it looks fine! But when I try it with the 2 LCDs I have in this room, it has the green tint. I've tried adjusting all of the brightness, contrast, colour temp, etc. settings and it's still there. The only...
Alright, finally some progress!
Success! No green tint on a sync-on-green incompatible monitor. How did I do it?
Well I was talking to a friend about sync-on-green and he recommended that I try to find a cheap, used "7053 sync separator", which is a little blue device that takes SoG and...
I owned a 2 player (sticks and 6 buttons on each side) 300~ game multicade cab at one point that even had a proper 21" CRT, but it never felt like a good purchase. It went into storage when I moved countries and I sold it the moment I moved back. IMO you lose something valuable when you start...
A MAME cabinet is different, I'm talking candy and dedicated. If it just has a PC inside then the whole thing is a bit ridiculous to have in the first place, you may as well hook it up to your living room TV and make some joysticks. :p