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Looks like there is a improved adapter someone made for Apple /// + FloppyEmu Reference links https://github.com/ThorstenBr/AppleIII_diskII https://www.bigmessowires.com/2017/01/25/floppy-emu-on-the-apple-iii/#comment-257807 https://www.applefritter.com/comment/100359#comment-100359 I hope...

About C22 I'll have to find mine after moving. Do you have a picture of exactly what you're trying to test for? But as mitchkramez stated & in my older image that trace around the 50v cap being re-connected fixed completely dead sound.

Sharing some images I never shared of this running stuff off FloppyEmu and pre-switch-box test where is hard swaps drive-select lines. I'll update this thread with better directions of how to make this box etc. As well as what chips get super hot in the Apple III and should have heatsinks on them.

Seems people are confused in posts. So to be clear. <<< Original PSU >>> * Doesn't work but ordered caps * Gets super hot * Voltages wrong <<< Off-brand Pico PSU I have in hand >>> * Works / Tested * -12v line reports as -7.2v with zero load * -12v line reports as -5.2v when Mac LC is powered...

You should only need to replace the electrolytic caps. If it worked before its probably not the PSU atm. Are those pictures of the board after you recapped? Did you use heat gun? Did you pull up any traces? Did you wash board off with IPA (isopropyl alcohol)? Or Its possible you broke a trace...

You use a 7905 negative voltage regulator to get -5v from -12v. Its in my earlier post.

Oops this "have a pico PSU with a weak -5v line of around 7.5v with no load." Should have been: "have a pico PSU with a weak -12v line of around 7.5v with no load." Said -5v instead of -12v line. So week -12v line thats -7v with no load but goes to -5.2v with mac powered on in short.

So in short I really want that -5v line to make sure I don't limit some hardware. So other question is: I have a pico PSU with a weak -5v line of around 7.5v with no load. If I power the Mac LC, the -5v line runs at -5.2v. Will this harm anything long term. I also ordered a new Pico PSU & can...

So my LC PSU is bad (smells bad to & gets stupid hot). I will try replacing caps but if something else is wrong I'm using a Pico PSU. So I did some Pico PSU tests to make sure computer boots fine (& it does) BUT I found out I don't need the "-5v" line to be connect... What is the -5v line used...

Made a button & here is a link: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/macintosh-power-button

Green Tint now goes away once computer boots & I use the 10 switch adapter I got with pins 2,3,5,6 ON. Other adapters still don't work. Here is the adapter I got: https://www.ebay.com/itm/271137033572

The hard drive in mine went out as well. I was able to fix it by taking it apart and cutting with wire-cutters off a peace of plastic blocking the head from moving and reading the disk. You can turn the drive on with the lid off to see if the head moves or not. If thats all it is, its easy to...

I can't for the life of me find any 3D printable replacement button for this. Anyone know if one already exists? If not I'll have to make one.

Got one of these 1-10 switch ones as it has a specific switch for "Sync on Green". Hopefully that also just works. https://www.ebay.com/itm/271137033572

Is this just a sink on green issue? My 4:3 LCD this happens sadly. I ordered an original video cable as I can an original VGA convert I'm going to try next. But are there better 3rd party VGA converts that work better? I'm using a Griffin 1-8 switch one at the moment.

I see guess I didn't take close enough look as it was in the same spot.

Macintosh LC has two floppy connectors on its motherboard. LC II only has one BUT has what looks like a spot for it. If I solder a connector here will it work?

I ended up using "MacTCP" + "Fetch" that could connect to "BabyFTP" on Windows. Keeps it simple and it works well.

I ran into the same issue after recapping my LC II. However it was just a bad trace between one side of the 50v cap. Ran a trace wire & it was fixed.

Sure but those can be confusing and easy to flip which way you're looking at a connector. While a real-world image is almost impossible to get wrong. But glad it exists out there.