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That doesn't sound ideal. Alright, will power it on in a dark room - could it be due to the shielding below the AB (which was pretty rusty, & bent out of shape a little when reinstalling it)? Alternatively, can a 580CD AB + CRT fit in the same spot? Got one that the case exploded into showers...

So, recapped the 6300 board and plugged it in - chimes and boots to ? screen. Next step is to do the same with the 580CD board and see how it goes. Guessing this is now the world's slowest PM 5500! There were a couple of alarming "snap" or "crack" sounds from the back of the CRT that lessened...

OK, so thanks again to all - cleaning up the posts on the AB and removing the gunk from the connectors did the trick. @joshc Everything appears to work, however now on power-on there appears to be a hissing/whining, almost sounds like a kettle. Sounds like it's coming from the back, near the...

So, measured top 3rd pin from the edge with 1 probe, and touched other to 4 & 5 (both black wires in the above photo). Repeated the same on the bottom, 0L. Changed ohms to 200, 20k, etc, no difference. Did the same on a spare Performa 580CD board, and same results. Assuming I'm doing it...

Ok! And more newbie questions - does it have to be plugged into the PSU to check this? Or can it be done with the board out? I put the red probe where you have GND marked, and the black probe on the pins adjacent to it (and 2 across - both black ones). Getting 0L. Swapped red for black, and...

Thanks all, please excuse my lack of understanding, still learning over here. So the multimeter (on ohms setting) goes on the third pin from the edge of the board, where is the ground pin to put the other multimeter probe on?

Thanks, still have a lot to learn. So I put the multimeter on ohms, touch one side to the pin, and the other side to ... where is the best point? Great! That gives some direction for the future. Also have a couple of other computers with this battery style that would be great to replace with...

OK, so, need to work out whether the pin is connected on the board. Does anything need to be done on the PSU side if connected/NC? With the coin cell mod, got some Meowtoast but they seem to only be for compact Macs. What I'm asking is, can one just wire a coin cell battery to + and - on the...

That's good news. Have seen pics of people just soldering + and - to a CR2032 as a replacement - is this legit? With regards to the 3.3v, so, with a board that doesn't have the PCI slot, it can go into the 5500 because those boards didn't require 3.3v? In another thread it was all quite...

So, have stumbled across a cheap 6300/120 board, that doesn't appear to have been batt. bombed yet. Is there a guide anywhere detailing the 3.3v mod? As in which parts to buy, what to solder to what? Assuming this needs it.

@pizzigri @Arbee Appreciate the support! Will have to do it without schematics, and hope we stumble across the fault. Have taken it down to the bare plastics - Nothing immediately obvious below the bottom shield, apart from being a fair bit less dusty than the rest. The only obvious thing...

Currently at this stage of the disassembly - everything is apart down to the front speakers & shield. Can anyone help make sense of where to start to troubleshoot this? Don't want to break anything, even though perhaps the connection on the inside is already frayed.

Appreciate it. Time to take it apart down to the bare plastic and find out where the speakers are connected.

Wow, apart from being really cool, it sounds awesome!

Wow, had no idea that there were emulators! Probably not a direction I'd go in, but guessing this is probably how the sound of SCSI drives will eventually live on... unless someone starts up a cottage < 500 MB SCSI drive industry! (to go with the also non-existent cottage vintage CRT & cottage...

The board has now been cleaned a second time (with soapy water), washed off & dried. It boots & appears to be working fine, including copying. Installed Mac OS 7.6.1 and it now only uses 3,900 KB. However, the sound is still out. I triple-cleaned & reflowed all of the legs on the chip, but it...

Perhaps I wasn't thorough enough. Another thing that I failed to mention was the audio stopped working when previously running.

Guessing there was a certain point in time where they used a different quality capacitor? Haven't seen any of these machines in the flesh yet! Is the longevity one of the reasons they're sought-after?

That's good to know. It seems that many, if not all, 68k & powerPC Macs have now have capacitor leaks, some long-dried.

Well, taking it apart and checking the motherboard again revealed some weirdness: It looks like a lot of the chips are "leaking". Perhaps capacitor juice that was trapped under, and not released during the first clean? Will try again.