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Ribbon is new and winds properly as the head moves across. I already took the printhead off, cleaned it with some isopropyl, and I'm not seeing any symptoms of a stuck pin (I'd expect a horizontal line of blank space, rather than vertical ghosting). The paper guide-- If you mean the clear...

To add to this, this is a new ribbon, normal weight paper (sheet feed for the moment, though I have some pin-feed paper ready for when this can print a page properly).

I've been working on an ImageWriter II, and I'm having some issues with print quality that are making me scratch my head. It's acting as if the platten isn't entirely round anymore, but only in some spots: Anybody seen this before? Ideas?

Update: I finished recapping and repairing a IIsi, figured out some weirdness with my display adapter, and the IIsi's display does the same thing on the OSSC. So yeah, probably just some scan converter weirdness. The issues with the PiSCSI on the Centris are a bit concerning, though. Does...

The second TV is straight VGA from the 15-pin adapter. I don't have a native monitor for this, unfortunately.

I mean, if you want to bring over a CRT, I can test with that, but this is being scaled by an OSSC, and it seems to happen at whatever resolution I set my adapter to and whatever monitor I connect up.

I hooked it up to the only other monitor I have with VGA that's close by, and that made the plot thicken even more: That TV may have a bad VGA port, or it might be having some trouble with the sync frequency, though.

I've been fixing on my Centris as I want to get it to a good mechanical state before I bother Retrobriting. I've noticed that ever since the recap, I get this pattern at boot: Once it boots, it goes away: This thing is still kind of finicky about actually booting an OS sometimes, even...

Actually, on these, Apple went with nice reliable tantalum caps for every other value besides 16v 47uF. The only cap I replaced near the problem IC is the cap between it and the power LED connector towards the PDS slot.

Strong recommend on the Pinecil. It’s a great iron for hobbyists.

Update: My skills at SMD soldering continue to not surprise me. On a wild thought, I desoldered that IC and spent a bit more time cleaning up the pads, and tinned them just a hair more than I had originally. Re-soldered with hot air, and now it's happily chiming every single boot. Now the...

I bought a pretty rough Centris 610 off Fleabay recently, went ahead and recapped it (as you do) and replaced the power supply, since the one it came with just clicked when you pressed the power button. I did have some corrosion on the board from cap leakage, but I've definitely seen worse (any...

Unfortunately, if you install Debian on it, it's just another Linux laptop. Honestly, I'm usually a zealous fanatic about open source and Linux, but for older Macs, the Mac OS is really the best option imo.

Would such a machine run A/UX?

I'd cast a vote for a 190 with a 5300c screen swap. But I'm biased.

If the theory is that this is caused by layer separation, has anyone stuck a bare LCD in a vacuum forming table? Remove the air from the space between the layers and force them together, then add a little bit of heat to re-soften the glue? I have neither a tunnel-vision display nor a vacuum...

Can't show pictures of the 5300C, because it's in pieces, but here's the 190C Apple never made: CF > IDE adapter, BlueSCSI connected via HDI30 adapter. Currently OS 7.5.5, but I'm running into some trouble with getting the BlueSCSI networking working properly, so I may go ahead and load an OS...

Mine wasn't quite that bad, and the connector might be at least partially salvageable. It boots, but the screen caps are shot (go figure). I can't seem to find 10v 33uf SMD caps, hopefully a 16v 33uf radial mount will work in that spot. I'll probably finish recapping the screen on that, then...

My parts 5300c is coming in today, hopefully I can pick the battery connector off that thing (doubt, but at least I have a guinea pig to desolder and poke at, plus a color screen upgrade). Do these just take 1.2V NiMH cells like these? How do you open the battery?