ravuya
Active member
I’ve tested suspect sockets before by doing a continuity test on the multimeter from the leg of the chip to the socket’s solder joints on the other side of the board.
You can’t press too hard, or you may force the chip’s leg temporarily into the socket and get a false reading, but it generally gives a decent report of whether you’re getting clean contact or not. Any lack of continuity, or an unusually large resistance/voltage drop shown if it beeps would be enough for me to bin the socket. My Amiga 2500 had a corroded CPU socket that only showed up once the plastic had been broken around the pin during removal, but it was enough to sever the 68k’s d8 pin from the data bus.
It does suck to do a lot of these since you have to crane your neck around the board to look side to side. I usually put the board between two big books in order to hold it vertical.
You can’t press too hard, or you may force the chip’s leg temporarily into the socket and get a false reading, but it generally gives a decent report of whether you’re getting clean contact or not. Any lack of continuity, or an unusually large resistance/voltage drop shown if it beeps would be enough for me to bin the socket. My Amiga 2500 had a corroded CPU socket that only showed up once the plastic had been broken around the pin during removal, but it was enough to sever the 68k’s d8 pin from the data bus.
It does suck to do a lot of these since you have to crane your neck around the board to look side to side. I usually put the board between two big books in order to hold it vertical.