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I am working on a 2nd revision. the 1st version in the video above are using the Choc V1 switches which while they work, theyre too tall to support good keycaps other than those 0.5mm thick printed ones which ehhhh i dont like so much. I might release V1 anyways for people to tinker with.

These are reeeeeeealy hard to print. Someone shared a model of this one on Discord, and its slightly off. But, trying to print this on a P1S is proving a bit tough.

Do you have the model for that battery cover? Do you have a model for the internal housing like a blank? Also theres a couple different versions of those doors. Older one has a longer button.

Do you have the STL files for this? Just curious. Also I am not sure how to get the sliding door off without breaking the door. to unclip it doesnt seem obvious.

Broken traces. The portable is touchy, and attempting to run a portable or leaving a portable energized with its original caps installed and leaking is often more times than not, fatal. Glad it runs but, the lines are trace related. you have an open trace between the LCD panel and the video IC...

Yep... See here:

That has to reeeeeeeeeally smell bad. I peeled a polarizing film off of a 2300c display and man... putrid.

I wonder if there is a chemical process to dissolve the remnant adhesive on the glass. because the razor method seems like a pain in the ass and can go incredibly wrong if you slip and hit a ribbon.

its because the DC input goes through a resistor... need full battery voltage to switch on the FET

I would also fathom that is part of the reason the LCs and other machines are shielded, is to help with EMI produced by the HDD, FDD and PSU which could radiate into the monitor and introduce wobbling. Also two CRTS side-by-side will do the exact same thing.

Make sure the monitor isnt near any alternating magnetic fields/EMI sources, ive occasionally found fans, transformers, and other nearby objects to cause CRTs to wobble.

Is this a miniscribe drive? I have seen the write amps fail on these drives in the past. Entirely possible thats what happened. The head isnt getting the write current from the write amplifier IC.

I have never studied the CC/LC5XX signaling in that amount of depth before, I doubt that anyone has.

Necropost.... I just ran into a Classic doing the exact same thing. I am suspecting the 74LS174, I will know further when i get back to it.

Did you actually test the 1 ohm resistor associated with it to see if it was open? because thats how you determine if the TOP Failed or not...

Seems like @ThisDoesNotCompute is very good at modeling parts to fix these things.

The UV produced from the bulb itself will accelerate this. It might be possible to retrobrite, or vaporbrite, but it would probably re-yellow with time.

Its the plastic light spreader/diffusor plastic which yellows as it degrades.

Ive never personally ran into it before, at least not yet but just looking at the pictures I can map the circuit out in my head pretty much right away and see whats going on, luckily.

yeah Q4 is the high-side VCC switch for IC3. Whatever happened with IC3 blows Q4. Q4 and Q9 are NOT zener diodes! They are transistors. Q9 shorts CN3 1 and 3 together when enabled. R48 is a pullup to keep the transistor turned OFF when not asserted by the control circuitry.